BRAAP

Tyler, I would be wiling to look it over if you can get the car to our shop in Sandy OR, (on the way up to the Mt from Portland, just east of Gresham). It would have to be after the 26th, all this next week we'll be wrapped up in this; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/93398-planes-flames-and-automobiles-2010-camp-in-cruise-fly-in/

Welcome to HybridZ. There's one here; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/92545-fs-misc-z-car-goodies-stock-custom-and-hi-po-l6-eng-parts-cstm-locks-prtr-fld-pads-etc/page__p__873681__fromsearch__1#entry873681 And you may want to read this one. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89072-membership-location-update-yours-now/

Alan, Thank you for catching that, link fixed.

Please take the time read the posts in the link below, be sure to open and read the links, they contain vital information regarding this relatively strict forum that will help all new members meld smoothly into HBZ population. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/63821-read-me-first-please/ Assuming you want to SELL those pistons and not SEAL them, the forum rules, classifieds section covers that.

I may be a bit behind the modern automative informational times not having any C&D, MT, R&T or AW subscriptions any more, forgive me is this old news. Is there any truth to this, other evidence, etc... GM's new flag ship V8?... More details please... . http://www.autoblog.com/2010/06/29/report-next-chevrolet-corvette-to-get-440-hp-5-5-liter-v8/

Very cool! Thanks for sharing.

Is this is a 280-Z with EFI? You do have a service manual, even if just a Haynes manual right? Assuming this is a stock 280-Z, my knee initial reaction would be to very the water temp sensor is not connected. With it disconnected, the engine will usually start, run rough, and as the engine warms up, run worse and worse with lots of black smoke out the tail pipe. If this is indeed your problem, there are what look to be two sensors for the EFI that are in the thermostat housing. One is larger and bulkier than than the other, but the sqaurish shaped electrical connectors look the same, just like the Injectors actually. The smaller one is the EFI temp sensor and it MUST be connected. The larger one is the Thermo-Time switch and can be left unplugged, it has NO affect on the engine running performance whatsoever! There are 2 plugs that up by the thermostat that plug into these sensors, sometimes they get crossed up. Both connectors run up the harness to near the throttle linkage where they both disconnect from the EFI harness with bullet plugs, 4 wires, one pari for each sensor, (one is actually the Thermo-Time switch, not a sensor). One pair of those wires will have red tape wrapped around it on both sides of the Bullet connectors, to help keep from crossing these sensors. The pair with the read tape is the pair that for the water temp sensor. Be sure those are connected a the bullet plugs and that pair is connected to the water temp sensor, do NOT worry about the pair with the red tape or the larger bulkier thing in the thermostat housing. Another thing that can get crossed up is inadvertently sonneting the Air Flow Regulator to the cold stat injector which opened it and floods the engine as Air Flow Regulator is hot 12V power when the engine is running. To eliminate that, just unplug the cold start injector, just in case. Don't worry about the cold start injector, it has NO affect whatsoever on the engines running. In fact, that larger bulkier thing in the thermostat housing is what controls the cold start injector and is only supposed to come on for brief second while cranking the engine in very VERY cold conditions. I personally eliminate that cold start circuit all together as it is really doesn't help and can be source a frustration for some. Hope that helps.

Stick it is.

KA swap would be cool.

The Z32 sub forum has TONS of LSx Z-32 info, pictures, etc. First page of that forum is chocked full of LSx Z32 stuff. I am pretty sure all that info would show up using the forum search feature as well. Here is the Z32 sub fourm; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/forum/54-z32-series-300zx/ Hope that helps.

Those cracks sound like the tell tale over heated cracks that go through to the water passage. Most guys just scrap the head and find another. It is possible to save the head, if you want to invest the time and money into having it welded and machined, though that can get costly. Also, please make an effort to capitalize when you post, (it's one of the forum rules). Hope that helps.

As Ron mentioned, John brought the car over yesterday evening. Those wheels are GORGEOUS with those flares. As Ronholio mentioned, once the carb fine tuning and ignition gets sorted, this car is going to be wicked quick! It is already quite fast as is, pulls very hard in the upper RPMs, feels like it is easily into the 12's as it sits. The rocker arm rear suspension is wicked cool to watch in action. Must get a video of that. I spent most of the ride in the passenger seat staring at the rear suspension doing its thing through the bumps and turns. Ride quality was quite nice. Very little if any squat under hard acceleration in the lower gears. Very cool ride, thanks for bringing it over John.

Are you talking about an oil system thermostatic sandwich plate or a cooling system thermostat sandwich plate? vs

I m pretty sure the there are several stickies int his section covering all the Datsun/Nissan diffs. That is for sure a Short nose R-200, it did NOT come from a Z31. 5 bolt output flanges means either N/A Z-32, 240-SX, or Infiniti J-30, (US market cars)

:lmao: And insures a more "entertaining" race for spectators at that black flag corner... I'd love to go sometime, looks like a blast.

I didn't konw the L28ET even used such a beast? Got pictures of your old one.

I know of a great fix for leaky Vanos seals on the 5 series; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1489862 http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1423081 Supercharged version; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1289653 Twin Turbo version, on the road; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1045119 I am not biased, really, I am not...

LS1 coils have a built in igniter! Coils with built in igniters are NOT compatible with external igniters such as the MSD 6A box! Especially not compatible with a Multiple Spark Discharge igniter! If you want MSD, keep the dizzy and single coil. If you want a superior ignition, sell the MSD and use the LSx coils. The LSx coils have a long discharge spark which is generally a superior ignition source to multiple park discharge, not to mention the precise pin point control over the actual ignition timing the LSx coils offer vs a dizzy. Lke carbs vs EFI. They both work aand make great power, EFI and DIS allow pinpoint precise control of mixture/timing. .

We were getting a little further along with mounts, wont have the mounts finalized till the headers are finalized. So long as the headers come through soon, this project will be on the road soon and parts available. Participating in another thread elsewhere I finally performed the testing I eluded to earlier regarding measuring the BMW and LSx temp sensors in hopes the BMW and LSx temp vs resistance curves would be similar. Turns out they are not the same, the LSx PCM needs the GM CLT sensor and the gauge needs the BMW sender. Simple enough for the later BMW using the 4 prong sender/sensor as it threads directly into the LSx cylinder head, having two heads means one sender/sensor per head, all is well. :alright For the geeks keeping score at home, here are the approx values I measured today. (Temp gauge was calibrated against an infra-red temp gun and Fluke temp probe and within 3% error. Temp vs Ohm should be within 10% of actual). BMW EFI and BMW Gauge = BMW sender/sensor. LSX EFI = LSx temp sensor.

LS1 T-56 converted BMW Z3 for sale! Gorgeous car, clean conversion… http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1489311

....yeup, used to have one exactly like that, EXACTLY!

Bawb Dawg hit the nail on the head.

Thread moved.

Intake or exhaust mani?

The mount that this discussion evolved into is called the RT mount, named after Ron Tyler, (member RTz). For more information about it, just search RT mount. To purchase one, go here; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/85384-rt-mounts-are-ready-for-shipping/ Hope that helps, Paul