BRAAP

Very nice Dave, welcome to the dark side...

Cross posts merged.

Installation of 240 front and rear bumpers on the 280-Z has been covered and brackets for the swap for sale by at least one member that is vendor.

To the question posed, "is the '78 EFI pinout different from the '75-'77 pinout". Answer to that question is they are totally different! The pin outs listed in the EFI bible will not work for the '78. The '78 uses the same physical connector, but the pinout, wiring harness, relays etc are totally different and unique to the '78 only! The principles the EFI bible covers still apply, but you must convert the actual pin-outs to match the '78 for diagnosing a '78 Z car EFI. Here are some diagrams of the '78 EFI wiring if it helps; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89575-swaping-78-l28-efi-into-72-240z-wiring-help-needed/ Hope that helps, Paul

I am think the Panda look/style is more than just a black hood on a white car. Something like a 25-40% percentage of black to white body panels, (or any two colors for that matter), sort like a Panda.

Hmmm... Looks like it attaches to the auto-choke body itself. Interesting they are not offering or mentioning a manual choke option?!... Marketing probably felt that most consumers wanting a TPS are probably auto-choke users. Some possible options; 1) Gut out an auto-choke assy and attach your manual choke cable to the actuator arm? 2) Swap over to auto-choke? 3) Build an adaptor bracket that attaches that TPS to the manual choke assy? 4) Contact Holley and ask them about a manual choke version?

TPS for a mechanical secondary 4bbl carb?... Using the cool Google search for "Holley TPS" revealed these two links; http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=196 and; https://holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10499.pdf Is that what you are looking for?

I have that book as well as the others mentioned below. It really depends on where you are at in the scheme of EFI building and tuning. That is a great primer, good resource/show and tell to customers for the savvy EFI tuner. This book would be the next or co-purchase with that book as they both compliment each other rather well; http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=37277 Then this book is a little more in-depth on the finer points; http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=10638 Personally, I strongly recommend all 3 books to anyone that wants to proficiently tune their EFI engine, order through Motorbooks international. http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=43623

Free admin bump

Thank you.

You've got mail.

I have the exact boot you are looking for, '77-'78, includes the 90 degree fitting in the hole for the idle valve, in this link below, first item. . http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/85318-fs-misc-z-car-goodies-stock-custom-and-hi-po-l6-eng-parts-cstm-locks-prtr-fld-pads-etc/page__p__808529__fromsearch__1entry808529

Finished up the fuel lines 100% today. Mallory Fuel Pressure regulator tucked nice and tidy under the little ledge where the driver frame rail meets the firewall. Connected the fuel lines to the intake manifold and energized the fuel pump checking for leaks. There was a leak, not from any of the new fuel lines but from the hard line that runs between the tank and the fuel filter was leaking where it passes through the forward most hanger! This car spent some time on the East Coast and its owner apparently drove this car around during the winter there. Some of that awesome rust accelerating agent used on the roads back east made its way between the rubber hanger and the fuel line itself where it went to work rusting through the fuel line! I happened to have some used 8mm fuel lines from a Datsun Z car that is in excellent condition, cut it to length, added appropriate bends, swaged a small flare on the ends, back in business. Also finished up the Brake M/C lines a few days ago. All that is left with the brakes is to install the ABS travel sensor bracket when it arrives so I can install the pedal assy then bleed the brakes. Also on the list is the heater valve and heater hose routing, I have a couple ideas in mind…

Knowing what someone meant is one thing and yes I agree, most everyone on this forum knows what he meant. On the flip side, having OCD, I personally struggle with allowing grossly inaccurate terms to be used on a technical based forum, classifieds or not, it is wrong. Other newbs read this willy-nilly inaccurate use of technical terms and continue on perpetuating this assumed inaccuracy creating only more confusion in their future technical discussions because they read it on technical forum, so it must be true... Like calling a 4 stroke engine a 2 stroke. Yes, they both burn fuel and consume air, but they are not the same, nor should the term 2 stroke and 4 stroke be used interchangeably for them. it's just plain wrong. Wish I could take credit for that Vtec video, but its not mine. The Vtec comment is priceless...

Hmmm.... Cool platform to do a mid engine LSx conversion..

You'd think the owner could replace one of those pics of the exterior of the car with a pic of the dyno sheet to support the boastful claim? How about a picture or scan of this supposed 9 second 150+ track time? Nope, we are supposed to believe this car is as fast as the one in his video link because the engine has the appearance of a power house? So much money and go fast goodies and he cant even produce a dyno sheet, or time slip, real or fake to support his boastful claims? My tail is tingling... And then that TB... Not picking on you Daeron, just clarifying a little further regarding the TB and how much the engine is breathing. Even with an aggressive cam say running 300 degrees advertised duration. within a 720 degree cycle, and only 6 cylinders... that means only 2 of those 38.1mm intake ports are drawing air at any one time... If my math is right, even the stock 2" Z car TB is just starting to become restriction, a 60mm would more than adequate! Just another example of more TB than what is needed. I expect to see that sort of grossly oversized component on a street/show car built by a car "enthusiast" in his garage, but not in a car that is 100% go, race car, function first, if it don't make it faster it's not needed, yet here it is! Makes me wonder what other aspects of the car were not "engineered" with performance as the prime directive? Every-time I see a grossly exaggerated TB on what is supposed to be a true "performance" engine with huge-by-large performance claims with no actual proof, there is good reason to be suspect of the claims and as professional engine builder, the person who gathered and assembled those components high performance engine building/tuning ability! Lack of Dyno and time slip along with that gawdy T/B to me says any and all claims are very suspect, until proven other wise!

Soooo, you and Dr. Toyota locked the mechanical advance so the ignition timing was fixed regardless of RPM? Curious why you two would do such a thing with no other means to advance the igniton timing as RPMS increase, (computer controlled etc...)? You just learned how valuable and sensitive ignition timing is, for producing power! In short, locking the mechanical advance with no other means to add timing as RPMS increase will kill ALL power and burn your exhaust valves in short order! Do NOT run your engine for any length of time with that much ignition retard! The L-series loves between 36-40 or degrees of ignition timing during WOT above 3000 RPM, (even up to 50 degrees at part throttle cruising conditions, i.e. vacuum advance. That is were your MPG come from). . The engine wont run with that much advance at lower RPM's. Any more than 17-20 degrees at idle is too much, hence the sprung-fly-weighted mechanical advance that allows 15 degrees at the lower RPM and the much needed 36 or so above 3000 RPM. If the dizzy was crapping out, welding the flyweights was the flush! If your ignition timing was locked and you set it at stock idle setting, if the car reached 60 MPH in less than 30 seconds, you were going down hill!

For the record, NO 280-ZX or Turbo variant came from Nissan with a MASS AIR FLOW sensor! They did however come with an AIR FLOW METER, which is often misinterpreted as a MAF by those that are guessign about their car and its components vs researching and understanding the part in question. AFM and MAF are 2 different sensors, not interchangeable physically or in terminology. Hope that helps, Paul

The R-160 is a great very lightweight diff for mild N/A applications. This car ran a Suby 3.90 LSD R-160 over a few years of track duty, road course and autocross, behind two different mild N/A L-28's, never had any issues. My personal opinion is around the 200 ft/lb-200HP limit in a normal non abusive driving enviroment is a safe limit for the R-160. With more radical L-28's, boost, or V-8, running the R-160 would be a gamble, R-180 woud more ideal in that role. For those that drive their car stomp-&-dump style, and guys wanting sub 2 second 60' launch times, the R-200 would be the wise choice.

Nice work John.

I recall Sir Dietz using a domestic 5/16" keeper for its locking groove being further down the keeper itself which raises the installed spring height, (retainer height), by that same amount allowing an alternative inexpensive taller, stiffer valve spring to be used. He was selling a cam kit , (still may be selling them for all I know), for the L-4 with those springs and keepers. I installed one in a friends Hybrid Datsun/Nissan L22 that I built several years ago. I was a little skeptical about their fitment at the time whne assembling the head, but it worked out just fine.

Spent today cutting, bending, and flaring some brake tubing. All four wheels are now hydraulically connected to the ABS module, just need to plumb the M/C to the ABS module and the return lines for the ABS module. Hoping to finish the brakes 100% this coming week, if possible. Will tidy up the routing of the brake lines once the M/C lines are plumbed in.

Small update. Pulled the engine/trans out of the car and “finally” relocated the ABS module to the passenger side behind the strut tower. Drilled the spot welds that held the blower motor tray that was in this position, using the ABS module mount brackets cut off from the driver side, hastily fused them to new sheetmetal to hold the module in its new location. Welds look like….. well… lets just say pigeon poo is more aesthetic, but it works. Welding is not one of my strong points. If time permits this weekend, I plan to have the ABS module plumbed. Plenty of room to mount the GM cruise control module next to the ABS module and the climate control valves under the ABS module, if I don’t mount them where the ABS module used to reside under the brake M/C.

Quick search for "Porting valve unshrouding" found this thread with detailed pics of unshrouded chambers, tools and techinques; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=44816