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Everything posted by BRAAP
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can I make a 4x100 fit on 4x114.3?
BRAAP replied to 7MGFORCE's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
We see many claims as to wheel spacers being "not safe" and a true "spacer" that slips over long sheel studs is unsafe. But in the case of wheel "adaptors" that attach to the stock length wheel studs and have another set of stock length wheel studs on a different size, the safety issue is not as relevant. Granted, wheels that are made to fit directly on the cars hub would be ideal, but the reality is there are far more options in wheels that come in the other popular bolt pattern sizes that make wheel adaptors a safe viable altenrative. Again, wheel "spacers" that require extra long wheel studs, bad. Wheel adaptors that utilize stock length studs, not ideal, but not as unsafe as many fear. Those claims stem from "spacers", not so much the "adaptors". -
Apparently johnc hasn't seen this thread or he would've posted his work desktop pic of you smuggling grapes....
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I go back and forth among these pics that I took with my Nikon D70s at an Exotic Italian day at PIR a couple years back... .. Currently this is my desktop as motivation to finish my LSx powered M3 daily driver...
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Should we ban you now or?....
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DIY 180 Degree/Single plane/Flat plane V-8 crankshaft…
BRAAP replied to BRAAP's topic in Powertrain
Because a dual plane V-8 can't have a Ferrari firing order, (which you are already aware of), it is called nothing. There is not term for any particular firing order/pattern/sequence. As such, if a dual plane crank V-8 could have a Ferrari firing order, it would still be called a dual plane crank V-8 as the crank shaft has 2 planes, hence the name "dual plane". Single Plane crank; Dual Plane crank; If you are asking if firing sequences have specific names, such as a Ferrari firing order vs a Chevy firing order, no they do not. There is no term that describes a manufactures choice of firing order/pattern/sequence. Chevy, Ferrari, Ford, Rover, Chrysler, Infiniti, Toyota, Mercedes, BMW, V-8's are ALL even fire V-8's. Regarding the available firing order of a particular crankshaft, dual plane vs single plane, what makes them different is the the fact that dual plane crank allows the pistons of one bank of cylinders to arrive at TDC one at a time, every 90 degrees of cranks rotation. A single plane crank allows 2 pistons of each bank to reach TDC at the same time, so there are pistons at TDC, (only looking at one bank of the V-8 here, don't get confused with what the other bank is doing at 90 degrees), every 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation. This link has some good visual references of the two different crank designs including an animation of the pistons moving for each; http://www.projectm71.com/Cross_FlatPlane.htm -
Still in need of rockers guys... A few have followed through so far...
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Ahhh.. Terry Oxendales most gorgeous example of Zed perfection...
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DIY 180 Degree/Single plane/Flat plane V-8 crankshaft…
BRAAP replied to BRAAP's topic in Powertrain
Not sure exactly what you said there but in a nut shell, all V-8's, (dual and single plane crank variants) and straight 8's are "even" firing. One firing pulse every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation. What makes them sound different is "when" the exhaust pulses merge that makes the note smooth and crisp or burbly-rumbly-bumbly. A 180 degree header on a dual plane crank V-8 merges the exhaust pulses in even intervals, but with really long primaries, (deeper tone vs shorter primaries). With a Single plane crank V-8, the exhaust pulses merge at equi-distant/time intervals using traditional V-8 headers/exh manifolds giving that smooth crisp note. 180 degree headers consume considerable real-estate in the engine bay to be able to cross 4 individual pipes from one side of the engine to the other, without being a determent heat wise to other under hood parts, pieces, ancillaries, etc. from all that extra header pipe surface-area radiating heat. A dual plane crank V-8 with a true 8 into 1 header would also produce that smooth crisp single plane exhaust note, again with long primaries to get them to all merge at the same point. David Vizard has done this with Big Block Chevy for his friends boat. He said it sounded like a high strung Honda! As for the inline 8, for a cylinder to fire every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation, the crank has to be a dual plane design, by default. If it were a flat plane crank in an inline 8 cylinder engine, it would have cylinders firing every 180 degrees, i.e. 2 cylinders would fire at the same time, just like a 4 cylinder engine of the same displacement, but with more moving parts, much larger package, same firing pulses per revolution, etc. Regarding the exhaust note of a straight 8, as described above, just depends on which cylinders are merged together that will dictate whether or not it will be a smooth crisp sound or that rough burbly rumbly bumbly. -
DIY 180 Degree/Single plane/Flat plane V-8 crankshaft…
BRAAP replied to BRAAP's topic in Powertrain
You're right, Oops! my bad. Sorry about that. -
DIY 180 Degree/Single plane/Flat plane V-8 crankshaft…
BRAAP replied to BRAAP's topic in Powertrain
Please pay attention and "read" the thread before you reply. Posting information that is not relevant in any way only clutters up an already lengthy, highly technical thread, i.e. your post and video has nothing to do with bringing to fruition a V-8 utilizing a single plane crankshaft! Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? No one is putting 2 engines together or even discussed such an endeavor in this thread! Again, please, "read" the thread before you reply to it so you are up to speed on the topic at hand. -
For a RWD LSx project, for the difference in price, time, fabwork, parts sourcing, and mental anguish, it seems like a win, win, win, win, win, to just hold out for an LM7, L33 if a 5.3 is is what you want, or or an LS1, LS2, LS6 LQ4 LQ9, Lxx....
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A quick search over on LS1tech.com revealed the following; 1) Crank is 10mm shorter at the snout. 2) Crank is 3 mm shorter on the flywheel end. 3) Bell housing bolt pattern is the GM Corporate FWD bolt pattern, not the RWD SBC or LSx bolt pattern so you wont be able to bolt up a T-56, etc. 4) Starter is mounted on the transmission, no allowance for block mount starter as on the RWD LSx blocks. 5) Water pump is offset for for clearance reasons. LS4 is 5.3L that uses the 243 casting LS6 heads but with the softer LS1 valve springs and uses GM's D.O.D. Some links; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-front-drives-2005-2009/556077-information-ls4-dod-4t65e-hd.html http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-front-drives-2005-2009/572681-what-differences-between-ls4.html http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/1099645-ls4-block.html
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If the grooves are the same in depth, offset, symmetry, etc, it should work. But as suggested, a competent locksmith would know for sure.
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Please utilize your shift key and per the rules you agreed to;
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This link will help with your query about the diff and transmission; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125970 You will find that this forum has been around since early 2000, being dedicated to the Z car, there is tons of info already here.
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Pics. PICS and more PICS! Could be an R-160, R-180, R-190, R-200! R-190's are quite rare in the states. The mustache bar, (the bar that attaches to the back of the diff), does it pass forward of the uprights braces or aft/behind the upright braces?
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Easiest route would be the custom ground cam that fits the block. The 4 cylinder cams are missing the lobes for the other 4 cylinders. i.e. Cylinders in a V-8 are not sharing cam lobes. Have you seen this thread about a DIY flat plane crank V-8? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139545 Gets fairly involved with cranks, rods, cams, etc.
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. Reading the text is overrated...
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One item that causes this is if the lower splash shield is removed. The Z32 is known to have an issue with the engine dying during drop throttle in neutral/clutch pushed in while the car is moving, if the lower splash shield has been removed. Usually above 30-40 MPH, the faster the car is traveling the quicker this happens. At lower speeds, the engine RPMs will rise, fall, rise, fall... Has something to do with how the ram air enters and bounces around in the MAF due to the splash shied not being in place, MAF sends inaccurate input to the ECU. Not sure if that is this problem, but something to look at.
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COOLIO! Did a quick search on some common V-8 bore spacing, just need to find the bore spacing on those hot 4 cylinders and you are that much closer to making this a reality. The SBC and LSx info I know for fact is correct, the others is info I found on the net, you may want to verify for sure. SBChevy is 4.40†BBChevy 4.84†GM LSx 4.40†Caddy Northstar 4.00†SBFord 4.38†BBFord 4.90†SBMopar 4.46†BBMopar 4.80†Infiniti VH/K41/45/56DE 112mm (4.41â€) Toyota 1UZ ???â€
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For terminologies sake, an inline or opposed 4 cylinder crank shaft IS a flat plane crank. I think that is an excellent idea and I encourage you and anyone else to keep digging and research as much as you can! 1) Determine suitable V-8 blocks, (SBF, SBC and SBMopar are all suitable in my mind, don’t' rule out the Mercedes, BMW, Infiniti, Yota V-8's. We are now starting to see those show up in U-pull-it yards which makes the inexpensively accessible). 2) Determine suitable 4 cylinder crankshafts with main bearing spacing that matches one or more of those suitable V-8 blocks main web spacing. Don’t get too concerned over bearing diameters, main bearings can be custom made if the crank journals are too small for the block, or the crank can be ground down if the journals are too large. 3) After finding matching block and crank combo, rods would be next on the research list. Find as many suitable rods that would fit width wise in the journal, (rods can be machined narrower on the big and small ends), journal diameters, and overall lengths. 4) Then pistons. With the very common 4" bore of the Small Block Ford, Chevy and Chrysler/Mopar, there are tons of inexpensive off the shelf pistons in varying pin heights. Here are some single plane cranks; Bryant Crank, (thrust main appears to be in the middle and is one piece rear main seal, possibly Ford, Mopar, Nissan, Toyota?) SBC single plane crank for 2-pce rear main seal; Ferrari F-355 single lane cranks; Toyota 4 cylinder crankshaft that I photo-shopped the oil feed holes for discussion sake in the DIY 180 degree/single plane V-8 crankshaft thread;
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its all good, even if it is bent. might have a sponsor put up the money to build us a new track car.
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Hunter shoots deer in neighbors pasture without permission. Phlebmaster and his daughter came out to help scrap out some of our parts cars while I was assembling my fathers Turbocharged SBC 350 short block. Phleb is towing parts car from behind the shop with the tractor, his daughter was busy tearing apart an L-26, RTz and myself are out front talking about something car related when we hear the distinct sound of a gun shot. We look out across my neighbors pasture in the general direction the shot came from, some 200 yards North of us and see 2 deer standing there, and one then falls to the ground. Over on the road some 100 yards due West of the deer are 2 pickups parked on the side of the road. Long story short, one pickup is a guy that lives down the road approx 2 miles, driving into town with his 5-6 year old son, saw the deer in my neighbors pasture, stopped to show his boy the deer, took a real nice picture of the deer on his cel phone. Minute or so later some idiot pulls up in his pick up, sees the deer, gets out with his rifle, leans on the fence next to the road and shoots the 4 point buck! My neighbors house was directly behind the deer from the shooters vantage point! DANGEROUS! This is rural, but there are still quite a few house within range of an errant bullet! Then the idiot and his 10-11 year old daughter scramble through the fence and drag the deer into the back of the pickup as myself, RTz, and my neighbor who owns the pasture the deer was shot, show up on the scene. The guy who took the pic of the deer alive then takes another cel phone shot of the dead deer in the back of the truck! (Sherrif and State troopers are thankful for copies of those pics). My neighbor and this idiot are having words, idiot thinks he has rights to shoot anywhere he wants, neighbors says this is private property, trespassing, etc.. Argument turns to yelling, idiot then tears out of there with the deer in the back of his truck. Turns out the idiot is friends/related to another neighbor just down the road approx. 1/4 mile and that is where he took the deer! The Sherrif shows up as well as the state troopers! Neighbor and the cops go down to where the idiot and deer are, the rest of us get back to our day. This idiot is in trouble! Road hunting is illegal in Oregon, he will most likely be charged with reckless endangerment due to the shot he took and my neighbor is pressing charges for trespassing! I took this pic of the morning fog from our place, shows the scene;
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I love the ground fog around here in Fall.
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Thrustnut, The ’77 was rusted EVERYWHERE including that location. We do have an late ’72 where that region is in good condition, not bent nor rusted. Phlebmaster and his daughter came out yesterday and tore into our parts cars getting them ready for scrap and he cut this section of the door jamb and section of rocker panel out of the ’72 shell for you. It’s yours FREE, but you have to come pick it up.