BRAAP

There you go talking about a pressurized bidet again...

Wait a tick. Go back and "read" that thread I linked. He IS using Mega Squirt to control the LSx coils. No mention of Tec3 either?!?!?

Ah, gothya. You might try dropping z-ya a PM, he might know...

If you are going through tail pipe testing, don't forget to be sure your ignition timing is at factory specs or even slightly retarded from that, you have a clean set of spark plugs in, plugs wires are also good/not too old. Poor ignition performance will cause subtle misfires, subtle enough you really can't hear them, but enough to fail smog tests. Typically the N/A Z cars run "noticeably" stronger with improved fuel mileage with the ignition advanced 5-7 degrees from the OE spec, but tends to kill the NoX when going through tail pipe testing.

Morgan, Have you seen this thread linked below? It is in the stickies of the MS section? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120533 He has been scope testing the LSx coils while under MS control...

Very cool. For a quality sedan, you can’t wrong with the German offerings. BMW or Merc. Compared to the BMW offering of the same vintage the Merc has a newer more modern appearance to it’s rival the E-30. I would've guessed this Merc to be the same vintage as the E36. I likey...

:lmao: Stop... you're killing me..

The simplest way to delete the cold start injector yet leave it for "appearances" sake is to deny it, fuel. Remove the fuel hose that runs between the fuel rail and the cold start injector, find a suitable hard plug that fits snugly in that fuel hose like a piece of aluminum or steel round stock in the 5/16" or 8mm range, (A long bolt will work, though you will want to cut off the head and the threads so you are just using the smooth shank, the plug doesn't need to be very long, maybe 1/2"+ in length), and work that plug up in the hose far enough so that you can reinstall the hose. Place hose clamp over the plug and tighten to be sure fuel wont get past it. Reinstall the hose, it will look totally stock, no fuel will get to the injector to be injected nor leak, you could even leave it wired up.

Quick review of the JTR Sight Glass Splicer/Tee. My ’91 Chev full size pickup is the test bed. Not utilizing a pressurized recovery tank, I just plugged the two 1/8” NPT ports. The upper radiator hose is the highest point in the cooling system so it always has some air in it. The radiator cap is just slightly higher than the thermostat and the coolant level seems to stay at least close to the rad cap so I have not really been concerned about it, though in a V-8Z where the radiator typically is not that high in relation to the T-stat, those air pockets can be and are an issue. Any how, installed the "Slicer/Tee" in the upper hose, sight glass on the side, bleeder on the top. Didn’t have to drain any coolant as the upper hose was dry in this regions as it always it is, so just cut the hose and installed the Tee splice. fired up the engine, let it warm up. As the T-stat opened up, the coolant only filled the upper hose to about half way up the sight glass no more. Cracked open the bleeder, (remember, HOT coolant has been passing through it, so it is HOT, handle accordingly.) the coolant level in the sight glass immediately went up to the top as the bleeder burbled, then was solid coolant. Removed the cap and topped off the radiator, let it run a for a bit, shut it down. Sight glass Tee is nice in that you can see at a glance, any time, if the system is adequately burped or not without having to warm up the engine and open a bleeder or the rad cap. Mike, this one is staying in my truck, I'm going to need at least one more now! Just installed; operating temp; Burping;

My point exactly.

You live in Cali! Just delete the cold start injector! As already stated its function is during really cold starts, but we have found it is NOT required to start the engine even in colder climates, below freezing, and deleting it eliminates a potential fuel leak! The engine will start just fine without it. I have been deleting that injector on ALL of my Z cars, friends, and my customers Z cars since the late '80's and not one of those engines started any differently with it deleted.

Mike, my apologies for not getting your pictures sooner. Here are the pictures of the JTR sight glass T. I was supposed to install this a couple weeks ago for an evaluation, and still haven’t gotten around to it (slacking big time, again my apologies). I will try to install it soon and will post pics of it installed. The T has the sight glass and 3 ports allowing for a bleeder as pictured and a dedicated line to the pressurized expansion tank most modern vehicles have started use for the cooling systems, or if you just need a small coolant line for any reason. I also posted a picture of the LSx cooling system as well. Sight glass, without metal baffle; LSx cooling system;

That parts is the Air Flow Meter. It does not "directly" control idle speed and should not need cleaning. Fluctuating idle speed can sometimes be due to sticky BCDD, sticky throttle body and/or linkage, vacuum leak due to cracked intake boot, or if your car has or had Air Conditioning, the idle speed compensator for the A/C could be triggering, (I am pretty sure the '79 used the same vacuum operated A/C idle speed compensation that the later ZX's used). Do you have a service manual for the car? Even a Haynes manual? You can get a Haynes manual at the local auto-parts store. Also, search for the EFI bible. It is a web link that walks your through the EFI system and diagnosing issues related to it.

Not much to update currently, played with engine placement, nothing worthwhile to report on that front, “yet”. Did receive my F-body trap door baffle, left my opinion on that here; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141988

Those rods are the powdered-metal rods. Parting surface is most likely raw as those typically are what are called "broken cap". The big end bores for that style of rod are more consistently round vs the forgings.

Hunting season… For the second evening in a row, a Doe and her 2 fawns have come up to our front yard, this time I took the Nikon D70s with the 18-70mm lens and grabbed a few shots. Not quite as spectacular as the shots I took of the doe last year with the fog back drop, (posted in this thread previously)…

I love this forum! you guys don't miss a thing. Car is a '73 240, belongs to customer turned friend. I wwapped out his carbed L24 for an L28 and installed the factory '75 EFI, cleaned up his N47 manifold, EGR delete, etc, been running for approx 3-4 years in that config. Running engine without plug wires was the question, but you guys also found a couple more good ones. 1) RTz had just installed a WOLF Engine management system on the car and got it running and with nice coarse tune over the last few days. 6 GM LSx coils just under the spark plugs. The Turbo Dizzy is being used for the optical sensor. I'm sure Rich will eventually build a cover, though I personally like the WTF factor it has now. 2) The AFM is still physically in the air flow path but not being used electrically. Rich (the owner of the car), will take care of replacing the AFM with intake pipe/tubing.

As the title says... ...No photchop, no trickery, no goofen, actual photo taken today.

What year is the car? Your user name indicates 280-ZX. The 280-ZX never came with a Mass Air Flow sensor.

This is your answer. The V-8 conversion manual is worth the small cost, even if you don't put a V-8 in your car, its worth it. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html And please read the rules before you click accept. #3 and #11.

Most likely the reason for the 0 indication is the oil pressure sender unit is garbage, especially if it is the gold colored metal version, i.e. not in a protective black rubber sleeve. If you want to the factory gauge to register anything at all, ONLY use the factory Nissan sending unit purchased over the Nissan parts counter. It will be encased in a black rubber protective sleeve, don't get one that is gold metal in color, that is the aftermarket crap, not reliable, 50-50 chance it’ll even work and is susceptible to leaking! Seen it far too many times to count, hence only Nissan oil pressure units for the OE gauge. These links also will help regarding the factory oil gauge pressure readings. 78 280z : 0 PSI Oil at startup and gradually goes up. No Oil Pressure At Idle

I’m feeling rather bored tonight and my mind is racing, high performance sports cars is all I can think about. With the chat box gone, I thought why not talk live to other HBZ members? If any of you wish to chat Hi-Po Datsuns or just sports cars in general, either in-depth technical stuff or bench racing about our most memorable stop light grand prix kills, give ole BRAAP a call… 1 (310) 495-5412 Aux. A friend is interested in your Rotary set up for his 260-Z. Give me a call, I'll hook you up...