karl

WRC teams start off with stock body cars and completly seam weld the entire car before adding the roll cage. The video I have says they do this for maximum stiffness because they are not allowed to have full tube chassis cars.

Hello Soileau, I've been watching your zbuild for a while. I just retired from the military after 21 yrs service and moved back home to Prairieville, just a couple miles from Baton Rouge. My uncle was once the district attorney of L.C. and some of my family lived there, nice place from what I remember. Does the z system cool well enough down here when the temp is 100 & humidity is also 100 percent. I'm going to make this my daily driver, so cold a/c is a must in the summer. Thanks for your reply Karl

So I was at the pick and pull today and pulled the entire a/c system to include fan, evap, and heater air control thing that makes air go to different ducts. Has anyone installed a complete system like this in their zcar. It is three separate under dash pieces that work off cables to redirect air, I also have that dash piece. Anyway I'm about to start a 7mgte swap and a/c is a must down here in south Louisiana, so while I have the car down I would like to try this, plus all the parts from the 2000 miata were only $100 bucks. So does anyone know if these parts will physically fit under the dash?? Wish me luck. Thanks Karl

Thank you Sparks, It looks to be a reliable car with very few mechanical woes.

So I've started my 7mgte turbo swap into my 70 240z and am now in need of a daily driver. I'm going to look at a 1986 300zx coupe tomorrow that looks to be in nice condition with new paint and a very nice interior. I'll test drive it tomorrow and would appreciate it very much if I were to get some pointers on any particular problem areas. I see no rust issues with the car as we don't have many problems with that down here. Thank you Karl

Very nice car. Where did you obtain the G-nose and chin spoiler, It looks awsome. Thanks

http://www.fastcarsinc.com/ Try this and see if you can find them, if not I'll try something else.

I don't have a 302 in my 240 but I thought you 302 guys might like another option I found for headers. It's Fast Cars inc. fastcars@chartermi.net Tel/fax 269-792-6632. These headers point stright down the middle and really hug the block, looks like they cost alot, no price listed. Good luck

Dave, your best bet might be to fab in a BMW rear diff. If you can shoehorn a BMW 6 into a Triumph TR6 engine bay you must have good fab. skills. I have two TR6's, 69 and a 72 and the 240z, I have been thinking about a transplant for my 69 TR. I would love to know what you had to cut up to fit the bimmer in, what did you do about the brake master cylinder? was it in the way. I have the alloy and corvair rear hubs along with the q45 diff. installed but don't know if I want to change the engine. Sorry I can't help but if anyone can you will find them on this awsome site. I'm putting a 7MGTE into my 240, mabey one might find it's way into the TR6. Well good luck

Thanks Dan, I replaced all the parts this weekend and It completly fixed the vibration problem. Again thank you.

Do not smooth out your intake runners, they need to be slightly roughend up to keep the air-gas atomization working to its potentail before entering the combustion chamber. The only part you want smooth like glass is the exhaust ports and combustion chamber. Your small intake to large bulb section then back to a small intake runner is going to hurt your flow IMO.

Thanks Dan for the drive shaft info, Yes 84mph in a 65 zone on a four lane hwy in the middle of nowhere was still to fast to be traveling on a 6 hour trip. I'll do my risk assessment and pick my battles more appropriately in the future.

Thanks Dan, I found a 260z at a pick and pull. It should have the correct mustache bar and rear diff. mount. I'll pick it up this weekend, stuff there is cheap. Do you know if my drive shaft will be the correct length with the 1983 5speed and the relocated diff? Thank you again for your help.

Sorry for starting a new thread, but I've looked for the answer and can't find. I've had a vibration that seems to be coming from the trans-tunnel at 70mph or more. I have changed the trans. mount the drive shaft, new u-joints with rebalance, changed half-shafts, diff. mount, second 1983 5speed trans. first one blew a bearing, new wheels and tires but the vibration continues!! I drive approx. 4000 miles a month and have been for two and a half years with three more months to go but the vibration is getting excruciating at this point, plus I got a $200 ticket this weekend!!!that could have almost bought my Q45 axles! My car is a 1971 built in 70 Z and I read in here that they had a vib. problem, so I bought a 280z mustache bar to move the diff. back into a better position, will I have to buy a different drive shaft/diff. mount/etc. and will this work. Please for my sanity help me. I do not want to spend much more money as I'll be starting my 7MGTE/Q45 swap next spring plus that ^%#% ticket. Thanks Karl

Hey CLIFTON, I've been gathering all my parts for my 7MTswap when I retire from the MIL. in 3.5 months +- a few days,hours,seconds but who's counting. I hope you're not saying I would be better off using the 1991 5.0L I have sitting on my garage floor as it will be a street car only. I know you can't make this call for me but do you have regrets concerning the 7MT as a daily driver vs a 5.0L with It's low end torque. Thanks

Someone said that they got their Q45 axles resplined by moser engineering, so I called to get my Q45 axles done and they said they can not do it because the axle shaft is 1.184" and the splined area is 1.197" meaning the shaft is to small to be splined for the CV or am I just talking to the wrong people. Any info would be appreciated Karl

R200/230-Q45 VLSD's are used to push +-4000lb cars around as well as the 300zxtt's. This is the route I'm going with a 7MGTE turbo swap into a 71 240. It would seem (please correct me if i'm wrong) that this unit will work much better in a car that is 1500lb+- lighter as the units seem to work well with the 300zxtt's that I have seen at auto-x events under heavy use. At what point of power or weight does this unit become a not so good choice for the light weight 240z pushing 350hp or more. It seems the best choice given the parts availability and price.

Mario, sorry I have not gotten back sooner. I do not have a digital camera, but I assure you that It works. You can also just put a 90degree smooth bend on the end of your current exhaust pipe and point It away from the car, this is what I did the first time I tried It. I drive alot to see my wife and kids and the fumes were killing me. I found the cure on accident while building a bike rack, I pointed the exhaust to the side so the heat wouldn't get to my mountain bikes shock and the fumes were gone. I had tried everything else listed here but nothing worked, now with all the driving I do I have zero fumes. I am getting ready to do a 7MGTE swap and am going to point the turbo exhaust out the same hole (I'm gathering rear end parts for the r230 swap, have everthing else, and with CLIFTONs help It will be awsome) good luck

Thank you so much. With this kind of help there's no reason not to do it.