karl

Guess I'll close this thread out. The Mazda a/c system is to large for the 240z interior. I put in the vintage Air gen II mini system and it fits like it was made for the car.

Hi mastermind, are you using coil overs? Also are the spacers used for keeping the rim from hitting the coil spring or for pushing the rim out to the edge of the fender for a better look? Thank you for the information.

Hi Benjamin, There are two good machine shops in our area, Greenlees on wooddale very good been around for decades but expensive and Womacks in Denham Springs.

If you want to go circuit racing or auto cross on occasion you might want to take into account the weight of the 2jz setup at a hefty 746lb vs approx. 510lb for the l28, 640lb 7mgte, 645lb 1jz all weights are with transmissions. If straight line speed is your need then 2jz is indeed the steed hahaha. That's 230 lbs more on the nose of a very light weight car, traction will be a huge problem. My 70 240 7mgte with approx. 400whp is a hand full on public roads, that's why I dial the boost down to 10lbs when driving around town. Good luck with your build.

Hi badjuju, I used a lokar throttle cable and fabricated a bracket that attached to the firewall and another that attached to the head in front of the throttle body. I still have them, give me a call. 225-405-0047

if you want you can give me a call and i can tell you what needs to be wired up at 225 405-0047 or i could mail you the instructions.

Hi Haajehaa this is my car, thanks for the complement, you can find more on it in the toyota engine section under 7mgte complete

What do you think? I don't know if I like the 17" wheel on the datsun. It's a Simmons 3 peice.

i built a new manifold and cleaned up engine bay. made lots of other new things in there too.<a href="http://s490.photobucket.com/albums/rr262/Karltritr6/?action=view&current=Datsun4401.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr262/Karltritr6/Datsun4401.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

There was a guy on here who cut off the part of the strut where the pin goes through, lengthened them with extra metal and rewelded them with no problem. If a good machine shop tig welded them with good penitration there most likely good, but of course you have to make that call. Next time cut them off with the sawzall like you did then make a pin to press them out. This is how I did mine 1. make jig to hold in 60 ton press. 2. use torch to heat up the sleave where pin goes through and start pressing. It was scary watching the press bending, but it did eventually start to move, the rest is history. Good luck

Ron, Thank you just thought I'd ask. If it doesn't work well enough i'll just cut it and reweld. You know It's not easy owning a 7MGTE, it seems some people want to tell you what junk it is so you have to make sure their always eaten the peebles off your rear tires.

Too much internal flow volume can affect turbo lag. Also longer piping is more likely to gain unwanted thermal energy. The shortest piping should always be from the intercooler to the throttle body. (Street Turbocharging by Mark Warner). The current piping on the car runs over the top of the engine and turbo, the piping will pick up heat from these sources. I'm not saying my lag is terrible, I would just like it to be a little better for auto cross. I rebuilt my 57trim ct26, It had a clipped turbine wheel on it which I did not like so I put an unclipped wheel and it made a significant low end difference. My car is a light weight 70 240z with 400hp, it's very fast, I just like to keep on improving anything that I can. I have a garage full of fabrication tools, I've been doing this stuff all my life and i'm simi retired, it's like a dream come true.

I'm making a custom (FFIM) front facing intake manifold and have a question for any experts. I'm concerned about the distance the throttle body is located from the runners. Will this cause anything like throttle lag?? It's going into my 240z powered toyota 7MGTE turbo. I mainly am doing this to try and cut down on turbo lag by shortening the IC piping to IMG]http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr262/Karltritr6/Datsun4131.jpg[/img]the intercooler and cosmetically as well.

It all depends on how hard finding a true turbo engine (P90, f54 with all the turbo stuff) is in or around your area. I have only ever found one in 6 years of looking around here. $400.00 sounds reasonable to me.

mine is pepper white like the mini cooper

New pics with my new fiberglass bumpers. the steel ones may take a while to fix so for now it's fiberglass, painted in charcoal metalic. why are the pictures so small?

Jason, I'm runnung a 3300cfm black magic fan on my radiator with a 2.5" gap between the intercooler and rad. I have zero heating problems. The fan keeps running after the engine is turned off until the temp comes down to 170 degrees. I do not know what my IAT is because I don't have a intake temp sensor. yhlz, I don't think the r154 driveshaft is long enough, It's two short pieces . Yes go with the walbro 255 pump. My fuel lines are braided stainless #6 and 6 AN fittings with modified fuel rail, I also use a surge tank. The clutch hard line is the line that comes off the clutch master cylinder and goes down to the slave cylinder, It's to long for the r154 because the slave cylinder is on the left side of the transmission instead of the datsuns original right side. You have to get a flaring tool for the line in order for it to seal with the flexable slave cylinder line.

Hi, williamb82 could you please tell me what stand alone system you are using for the 7mgte. Thanks Karl

yhlz, Hi, you're going to need a complete custom driveshaft, but be sure to get the 7mgte/r154 transmission yoke, It's around $200.00 if you have to buy one. You're going to need a custom throttle set up, easy. My stock 4 core brass radiator couldn't keep the temps under control, it is very hot in south Louisiana. Custom fuel lines and pump. Clutch hard line will need to be shortened and flared again. Heat shielding for the battery. I hope your doing a brake upgrade and some suspension work? If I think of anything else I'll let you know. Let me know when you get it in and I'll give you the wiring info, It's not that complicated, I just have to give it a quick look over so I don't give you the wrong info. Karl

I noticed it had no spare tire, might want to find one. Go over the cooling system thoroughly. Bring a spare fan belt and by the way the electrics look i would bring an ohm meter and wiring suplies. Give the fuel lines a look over and spray the inside of the carbs with carb cleaner. I used to drive my 240z 2000 miles a month from 2004-2007, 3 years and the car never left me stranded with 200,000 miles on the odometer. Good luck on your little adventure.

I tack welded a 1/8" thick x 11/2" wide flat piece of steel under the fender before i painted the car and it has worked out great. Before i did this you couldn't touch the darn thing without it poping in and out. Over the years it caused the tops of the fenders to become very wavy.

My daughter went off the road into a ditch and hit a concreat culvert with her saturn L100. I replaced the subframe and took it to a body shop to have the main frame pulled. It was pushed up 2" back 2" and in toward the passengers side about 1". It was a big hit, she broke 3 of the 4 motor mounts. They charged me $500.00 to fix the frame and kept it for 2 days. When you get your wheels back on take it to the shop, it's cheap.

I've been using this radiator in 97degree heat here in Baton Rouge La. with a black magic fan on my turbo engine without any problems. I can sit in traffic, drive hard and never get above 180 degrees.