Racinjitter

Dramier, I add you on my AIM. The next time I see you on I'll send a message. Same screen name. A while back we were emailing back and forth in regards to this swap.

Yea, I was planning on using Jason's poly mounts in the swap... I could also go solid mount for the clearance. I would prefer not to go solid because I dont want to nut and bolt the entire car every time I drive it.

Awww damn, you beat me to it!

So I did a test fit today... So far the issues are that I would like to have te engine sit down in the cradle about 2 inches further lowering the CG. I think I will cut the existing crossmember down. I also need to change the angle of the engine mounting pates that I made by about 10-15 degrees, this can be done when I cut the crossmember brackets. I will need to make a powersteering hose to run to the rack, and mount the resivior on the US drivers side. There is pretty good clearance all around the engine other than that, I think that A/C could easily be used if I wanted. Well if you have any questions or suggestions please leave me a message. Here are the pics.

Oh , yea the pickup on the oil pan is the old one from the front sump. That would be crappy if It was supposed to go inside there!

I got some new parts yesterday. The 200zr oil pan and pickup. I put them on after relocating the dipstick tube. I will have to straighten out the tube because the dipstick will not go in or out smoothly. It is quite hard to find a reasonable place for the tube, the coolant-oil cooler is really in the way. I also recieved my guages that I will be using temporarily until i get the chance to make everything for the aftermarket guages. The plug for the dipstick tube is easily removed from the inside of the engine. To install it into the front location i set the plug into the hole and tapped lightly onto it setting it in place. I then grabbed a 1/4in extension and set it into the proper place. Here are a few pics... **edit** FYI http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=756 is now carrying N1 water pumps, N1 oil pumps, exhaust manifold gaskets, timing belts, idler pulleys and tensioners. The tensioners are the same as VG30's though.

Here is one just a couple of threads down. Well kinda its a s130. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112710.... Here is what the search came up with http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=511894.

So I need this to start the vehicle?

If you dont want to send it to SR240z, There is a great local place here in Detroit. Their name is tuning factory. They do a lot of work with RB's, SR's and VQ's (among many other platforms). Here is a link to their website http://tuningfactoryinc.com/.

this might help you out... it is one of my other posts... well at least for some more engine measurements. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=667190#post667190

Measurements of the engine bay and the RB engine itself. I think I will not be moving the existing mounts on the crossmember... Instead I am thinking of making this out of 1/4" steel plate...(for mockup) then reinforcing it. Any suggestions? (besides being in actual scale)

I'll get around to the engine bay measurements later. Right now I have a bunch of sand stuck to me form sandblasting 90% of the rust out of the engine bay. Pic...

If you plan on building up a VG, you can have one of my spare blocks. I need more room in my garage. Just PM me.

Not a problem. My RB is just sitting on the engine stand right now. That is with the factory intake plenum and the turbo with heat shields. The measurement from the front of the engine to the mounts is....14". That is the centerline of the engine mounts or to the top mount bolt(which is in the center). As for transmission size the RB tranny is the same length (within a half inch) and larger in diameter. Here is a pic of the auto from a Z31 vs. the RB tranny. The auto is the same length as the manual and very close in diameter. Sorry I couldnt line up the trannies, It is raining outside and do not want to pull out the cars to move stuff around. Maybe tomarrow I can get some better shots for you.

Thanks Turbo FB! That is what I was thinking aslo. It is the only other module in the schematic, but nowhere does it have the correct pin layout.

As for the physical dimensions of the RB25DET it is 30.5" long about 28" tall and 26" wide.

Dave, Hows the project comin along? I actually started to work on mine again. Most of the problems that I am coming across are in my post on here. I havent had any real snags yet though. I thought it would be much harder that it has been so far. Good luck trying to find a good quality top mount manifold. I looked forever before having a bud make one, Which He took back and is planning on making it better and more durable.

Yet another update on my swap. OK, so I took some more measurements today... What I need to do to get the RB to sit in the engine bay... I need to swap the two engine mount brackets on the crossmember so that it moves them in 2" each. 18" 22" The factory engine isloators form the VG bolt on to the RB, so I can use the poly mounts. The only difference between the isloators is the diameter and the length of the stud going through to the engine mount bracket. Well I guess that the two studs is a difference too, but That is only on one side. RB isolator VG isolator Also the distance between the tranny and engine mounts are identical between the RB and the VG at 39.5". Factory tranny mounts will be used. Now I am waiting for the 200ZR rear sump oil pan and pickup. By the time they get here I should have the mounts swapped. So it will also be test fit time!!!!

I don't know what got into me lately, but I now have the engine on a stand, the car is being stripped of all the engine bay rust and I am getting all the measurements done for setting it in there. This engine will be a very tight squeeze as the engine alone is about 30 inches and the measurement from the firewall to the core support is 31.5 inches. This should be fun. I plan on cutting the core support out and making some brackets to bake it a bolt in core support like the dodge intrepids are. Well here are some pics.... I am not done removing all of the rust in the primered areas, it started to rain.

What is this, And where does this lone wire go? It looks like a ground wire but I dont want to fry the electronics inside of this part. The part number on it is HO561-15U25 and some other number on it is 3720. Could anyone tell me what it is? This part was tied to the ecu via the wire coming from it. Oh yea the engine came from a 1996 R33 if it matters.

A couple more pics... The timing belt appears to be unworn/unstretched. The confirming the 20k miles that the importer showed on the video.

OK so I actually started to work on the car again... Right now I am flipping the engine mounts on the crossmember, Putting a new clutch and all new timing parts. While I am at it I am going through the turbo because I found a MAF screen and plactic in the intake piping. I am first cleaning out the garage though. Here are a few pics of the ride and engine(s)....

As far for my experience on how high the engine revs goes I think if you simply stroke the engine and leave the bore this would make the engine under square (meaning that the bore is smaller than the stroke). This under square engine will not rev as high as an over square (larger bore than stroke) engine of the same displacement. Formula 1 engines are over square engines and rev to about 18,000 rpm, aslo they are only 3.0L of displacement. I dont know of another V-10 so I will use the VG30E for an example... the VG30E only revs to 6500-7200 rpm, the vg30e is under square. I know that if you put enough money into any stroker engine it can rev more than just a plain stroker. But most of the time a daily driver will not do this and will only do this if there is a return to their investment? Someone correct me if I am wrong on this math. This is what I have learned about making an engine scream with RPM's.

the VQ engines are used in the JGTC cars and can make upwards of 1200 WHP. The VQ35 factory bottom ends are stout and can produce 500whp reliably. There is one person locally with a 350Z producing 500-600whp with an auto behind it. BobaFettm is his screen name on another board that I am on.

I didnt notice any real differences at all. No mileage difference, no power difference. The same amount of fuel is going to be used as I look at it, but nissan says otherwise. I did 1000 miles worth of gas both ways, and it turned out to use about 2 gallons difference, this could just be because of my foot or weather.