Racinjitter

For certain, the ecu does not need the VSS signal. I have been running mine without a signal with no problems for almost 2 years now. And I can go WAY faster than 130mph without a fuel cut. I am with Fentin Fury, I also have an autometer speedo, freaking easy to set up. Also if you ever change your diff gears, all you have to do is press the button 3 times again and drive 2 miles, and you are accurate again. I checked my speedo's accuracy with a handheld GPS unit and it was dead on at 70 MPH.

I don't understand why he wouldst use the vg30 crank? Personally I have seen 660rwhp with the stock crank. I know of a few other people that are going to be pushing their vg30/33's up past 700rwhp this year(hopefully). The material that the vg30e/t cranks is identical to the vg30dett. It is not cast. Unless 260det, you are stroking your vg30? I haven't seen you build, but I will look further into your posts. mtcookson, its ok it took me a long time to learn the difference about the oil pumps. The vg30e/t all use the same pump unless it was an automatic turbo. Only the automatic turbo's had an external oil cooler due to the extra heat that the radiator and transmission would create. (automatics have the tranny oil cooler built into the radiator)

For oil pumps that are a little better than the 5speed ones, go with an 86+ turbo automatic oil pump. They have a higher volume rating, because of the external oil cooler.

^^^^LOL... Here is a link to my RB Z31... *beware* so many pictures that your head may spin.http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119145

Yeppers, And not all GLL's have a digital dash and/or leather.

I dont think the stock rb25det fuel rail is a restriction, until you get into 700whp+ territory. Which I dont think I have ever seen a rb25 put that much power down. (Moot Point). The only reason to go top feed is to get bigger injectors IMO. Also the top feed inj. are easier to find/replace.

Rb25det's run side feed injectors from the factory. You can buy other aftermarket side feed injectors up to 880cc that will slide right into the rb25det fuel rails. Most aftermarket fuel rails will use a 11mm top feed injector design. As Raff said, you can get close to 400hp out of the stock rb26 fuel system. For 6 cylinder applications what I normally do to estimate for hp is.... The number of CC's the injectors are will be close to the hp you will be able to run safely. So 370cc ~ 370hp. Get what I am saying?

I don't think I will have that truck for very much longer... Looking for a tow pig now. But it is up for a good workout again!

Very Nice snail you got there.... I am jealous.

I completely understand Raff. I am in no hurry, however I may just get a few rb25de heads on the way over here so that I can prep them. You may want to check with Yellow shipping. That is the company I used to get my rb25det complete swap from Montreal to my house. IIRC it only cost 275, including duty fees. However I know of ways to get them across the US-Canada border without duty fees. When you cross the border, in customs, it states that if you have been in Canada for less than 48 hours you can bring back up to $200 in goods without taxes. If you are in Canada for more than 48 hours to a week you can bring back $800. I dont remember how much you can bring back if you are there more than a week. When you have partially disassembled engines, customs cannot put a value on them. You have to decide if you want to tell them how much they are worth. If need be I could help getting the engines across the border and shipped out.

Yes I accept paypal. PM me for the details.

Sweet Scotty!!! I was watching a few specials the other night and saw a few BIG trucks like this one. One had an American flag theme, I thought you may know the truck. I dont think you could see that light bar from anywhere, if it were in the middle of the truck. It looks more in place in the front of the truck. ps you may want to be careful about posting pics of f**d's products. I guess they have too many lawyers that have nothing to do. For instance BMC (black mustang club).

LOL, That was an experience in itself. "Yeah we can just put it in this tupperware storage bin and drag it over to the truck," I guess we didnt factor in the cold weather and its effects on plastic. As soon as you get enough potential buyers let me know. It will only take a few days to get my monies scrounged up. Do you think your shipper could get an extra rb25de head into that container? I will mention this on a few other forums to see if there is more buyers (not window shoppers). Hell, Raff You know I will vouch for you. You went above and beyond helping me out, not just with the rb30's but with many parts projects too!:2thumbs:

LOL, just let me know. I will be pretty busy this weekend with the car, so if you are down this way give me a shout.

Hey guys, I know there are quite a few of you running a 200zr rear sump oil pan in your cars. I thought I would let you know that I have been making adapters for autometer sending units to adapt to the factory temperature sensor bung in the oil pans. Right now I have two of them sitting on my desk ready to ship out, so if anyone wants one just PM me. I usually charge 18.26 for these fittings and that includes USPS priority shipping, my labor of 5.00 and the price of the original fitting. I can get the price lower by not shipping USPS priority, and to just sell the fitting so you can do the modifications needed. Here are a few pics of what work needs to be done to the original fitting. They start out like the one on the left and I cut it in half (middle one) then I tap the correct threads down the center and media blast it (right one). Here is a completely finished adapter. Shown next to a quarter for size reference. Mods, if you would like you can move this or delete this. I understand that this isn't quite the proper place.

I would probably buy another, if the price is right.

I agree with Careless... Do a little looking around http://www.redz31.com . All of the na2t information is there.

To be certain, you will have to X-ray your block to see how far you could safely bore. I am pretty sure that every engine will be slightly different from each other but by only a few ten thousandths.

Yea, hugh the 200zr was available from 1984-1988. The 200zr-I was the early style hood scoop like the 200sx turbo's, and the 200zr-II was the small hood scoop in the middle of the hood for the TMIC. The transition year for the I to II was 86 (IIRC). The 300zr was powered by a vg30de (I dont know what years they were produced).

Vids Please ..

It is normal for this plug to be unplugged in this pic... I forget the procedure for setting the idle, but you may want to download a FSM from the web (I think Z31.com has one) to proplerly set the idle. You may also want to check your timing and check for codes on your ecu. There are two flashing led's on the ecu itself that flash the code number after you turn the screw back and forth. If you get any codes start by fixing those first. I would recommend going with bilstien HD's, tociko illuminas or Koni adjustables for shocks. For springs I would go with http://www.Z31parts.com springs. I currenty am running the type 1 springs from there and illuminas. As for mufflers you may want to look into http://cmperformanceexhaust.com/. They make good stuff at reasonable prices. You probably already know this but 88 Z31's came with a t-25 turbo and wont be good for much above 240whp. If you get a boost controller make sure you get a gauge, the factory ones do not read in psi and arent very accurate. IIRC the t-25 is ok to go up to 12 psi before it becomes a heater. With that much boost you will need an intercooler or means to get the intake air temps down.

also $50 USD or CAD would be close to $100 AUD?

Freakin' awesome. Those cams make your rb sound pissed off! Oh and shocker ftw!

Would you care to share what internals are in your rb30?

Wow! You have really dwindled your times down! I anxiously await your next installment.