280zex

XNKE I run a locked dizzy as I don't have a boost retard box installed yet. Mabe go with a Hyfire with btm. Right now my idle is 1k but drops to 900 when i turn on the lights and cab heater fan.

Yetterben I changed 2 jet sizes to #66. AFR at WOT is now 11.4. About the cooling mods am I missing something? I didn't know about any problems. Or atleast I personaly haven't had any issues YET. Should I look for anything particular?? XNKE I measured that cam while at Delta cams with my dial indicator. It does measure .480 lift. It does seem to have a bit of a steep ramp angle though. Mabe due to re-gringing? I think I'll check it again and let ya know. So far this setup has about 500 miles Turbo charged. I have 5k miles on the engine BEFORE the turbo was added. I might just pull the head off when I take the intake and exhaust manifolds off for coating. Right now I gota fix a small leak on my pump for the air to water inercooler. Its a bad clamp I hope!!

Yetterben I can drop a point easy enough. I'll go from #64 secondary jets to #66's and let ya know. That should put me about 11.5 afr on wot. I realy like my turbo setup but it eats fuel on boost. I ran 80.5 miles(mostly 45mph to 60) and used 10 gallons of fuel. There was a bit of stop and go but not much. Could be that when I got a chance to boost I did so liberaly. Right foot to floor. Good thing my Holley has only a primary side accel pump...

F54 block. .5mm overbore 10cc dished and coated custom forged pistons. Forged crank with knife edege lobes. Replaced all the studs with ARP studs. Coated the interior of the block with glyptol(sp?). Forged rods stock length. N42 head with stainless valves and seats. 5 way grind on the valve seats. mild port/polish. Polished the outsied of the head and valve cover. Custom cam grind from Delta cams .480lift/280 deg rotation on solid cam. Followed TonyD's guide on balancing your valve train. Kamiari(sp?) cam gear/guide/tentioner. Custom 1 grove harmonic balencer. Turbo oil pump. Custom made head gasket.

There is plenty of info on how to do the mods required for blowthrough turbo/Holley. However I could possibly(mabe) modify Holley carbs for blowthrough. Money talks.I need to get a dyno print-out posted first. Video would be cool too.

92 octane. 18 deg timing LOCKED uni-lite dizzy(no advance/retard curve).

Holley list #6895 390cfm spread bore double pumper dual fuel feed. Quickfuel 750 metering blocks. Nitro floats .130 needle & seats. Idle feed restricters #29. Primary low speed air bleed #70. Secondary low speed air bleed #29. Blocked bolth high speed air bleeds. Blocked ALL vac lines including the power valve channel. Removed backfire check valve from base plate. Removed the secondary accel pump arm. Installed adjustable secondary throttle linkage. Cut and capped the throttle shaft ends in base plate. Made custom BOOST refrenced powervalve from a 2.5 valve(hanger 18 mod- use google search!!). Primary powervalve restrictor #77. No secondary powervalve. Installed a green pump cam on primary side on hole 2. Drilled and extended the transfer slots with a .015 hole past the throttle blade at FULL closed(not idle) position. This is for bolth primary and secondary sides. 4 corner idle adjustment. Secondary idle circuit NOT used. #25 accel pump squirter(stock). Re-useable blue gaskets.#54 primary jets. #64 secondary jets. Removed ALL choke parts. Cut off(milled) choke horn. Filled choke control arm hole(s) with fuel resistant epoxy. Hope that helps:mrgreen:

OK so I finaly got the 280z on a Mustang dyno for 1 free run!! Due to the fact that I was talking some !##$@ to some of my tuner friends about my unique setup. RWHP 305 and 285 torque @ 12lbs boost!! Sorry no print-out the run was a free-bee.What amazed everybody is the fuel curve (or lack there of). The z idles at 12.9afr cruses at 12.9 and is 12.9 WOT. The fuel curve moved mabe .5 richer just as boost came in. The t3/t4oe came in at 3k rpm's and went all the way to 7k. Plenty of room for more boost!! Unfortunately I wasn't able to get the Nascar carb I got for free to work for me so I went with the old #6895 Holley 390 carb. My guess is that the older carb is spread bore vs. the square bore of the newer carb and the 280z liked the older one better. Go with what works!! Now I have to get a better clutch and trans. Here's a pic of my current progress..

Had to go with a thick spacer due to the size of the compressor housing. The MSA dp fit nicely. My exhaust is 2.5 inch and had the MSA 6 to 1 header flange. The t3/t4oe turbo came with a 2.5 v-band flange. I went to my friends exhaust shop and for 5 dollars he put on a 3 bolt flange and flaired the end. So no more gaskets to worry about. Now I'm gona get the dp coated and get a turbo blanket. Mabe even get the housing done as well.

Got the MSA pipe myself. Cut the original flange then welded the 2.5 vband flange. I have a t3/t4oe turbo and the 1 inch spacer. I did have a problem with the o2 bung. Seems like it was welded in too fast and changed shape. Had to run a tap through to fix it. I cut the original flange off right at the weld....hope that helps.

I keep all of my receipts. I have yet to add them up though as I don't realy want to know. On a guess I'd say $5000.00usd just for the engine in its current setup.

Nothing is "stock" anymore. F54 turbo block, ARP studs/bolts. 87 mm forged pistons with a 10cc dish. Felpro turbo head gasket. Not shure what the difference is but the parts store listed it as an option. N42 head with custom sworl headed, stainless valves and seats. Mild port/polish. Not shaved by me but measured with about.005 thinner than factory. I'm guesing the previous owner had it "shaved" or whatever. The polishing the p/o did was a nice touch though! Custom cam grind from Delta Cams ( Tacoma, WA ) 280/280 deg with a .480 lift @ 1.5 lift angle.

Shiny yes but its the cheapo shucks stuff I had laying around. I was after the coldest possible air source for the fan intake. I may even modify the snorkel/output side to flow the air under the fuel bowl. Thats my hot spot right now.

I know this has been done many times before. I'm just not a big fan of efi. I know it, I've built it, I've modded the hell out of it. It's just not my thing. Realy I'd love to go gumbys route but on a rb and go kinda ratrod super freaky 60's styling with no electronics. Hide the wires. Go like black and copper with twisted stainless. Make my own valve cover that has Datsun on it. Mabe outa carbon/lexan and copper lettering. Just let them freaky designs outa the box. Don't get me wrong I'n mot preaching a better road. Far from it realy. I'd be nice to have a stock 76(or what ever) year just to drive. Mines got a tude. I realy miss my STOCK 1980 280zx. Best damn car I ever owned. I'd give up my 2007 sc VW jetta in a second to have sutch a low milage perfectly maintained zx. I drove all around just to be in that car!! Man I do miss that one. Just thinking that some @#$%^&^%$$%^&^#$%# killed my car makes me cry!! Total loss. FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF. Sorry I miss my baby so. I took like 10 hours to polish each rim( the only NON stock part/s) with a tooth brush!! Sha-Shine!!!!!!! I have pix of what was left after the accident but don't wana even look at them......

A machinest friend said mabe we could make some type of water cooled aluminum heat sink underneath the fuel bowl.Or even make our own water cooled fuel bowl. I was also thinking of having the heat shield I made ceramic coated. I know the turbo blanket will work and wraping the dp too. There is soooooooo much information that the design side of my brain is going 10k mph!! I have been reading up on the body aero stuff as well. Boy do I need to make improvements. I know the potential to have a truly"super Z" is possible but my wallets a screaming!! I have the will but lack funding. I lost the sweet-a 100k a year job and now make 30k. I HATE BUDGETS!!!!!!!! I would like to get with a moderator or a very knowledgable Z person here and put forth a faq for blowthrough/holley. Its not that hard realy I just gota get the RIGHT info to put forth for others who wana go the different turbo road. Research is the key!!! Knowledge is better. Having the wisdom to combine the two and make it a reality is truly powerful!!!

On a side note. NO computers/electronics were harmed in the making of this turbo setup

I haven't setup a build sheet/faq yet. There is so much work I have done over the years that is an undertaking unto itself. Also I don't want to post up miss-leading info either. There is a well known Z-shop thats willing to give up dyno time once I get the carb and water cooler installed. So far I'm totaly cought off guard as to how well this setup is running power wise!! The clutch is about done from too much right foot action. My rwhp "guess" is 250 with 8lbs boost. The shop with the dyno has an ACT clutch setup that should do the trick. I'm not after major HP with this setup. I was after the "holy @#$%!!" factor. However it does run damn well so far!!

Hey Tony what to do about that darn pesky heat soak?? I'm actualy thinking about plumming in the intake fittings on the bottom of the manifold into my a/w inercooler. The ones that are for warming up the bottom of the carb via engine coolant. I still need a turbo blanket..

I went with the a/w cooler for 2 reasons. 1 I didn't want all the extra piping for the charge side. 2 I didn't want a standard inercooler visible in the front of my car. There's a fellow on zcar thats going blowthrough on a set of su tripples. Sounds cool so far. Can't wait to hear it boosted!! Gas milage is about 17mpg average.

Upgrades/update. My wallet hurts So I just installed my air/water inercooler and pump. The i/c is a perfect fit!! I still need to get the water radiator but everything else is set to run. The water pump is a live well marine pump rated at 550gph at 12 vdc. It was half the price of the bosch pump but is only good to 115f water temp. Life span is warrenteed to 1500hours. I'm kinda out on a limb with this but hopefuly it'll work out well. I was in need of a new carb as well. The current carb I have is at the end of a useful life. Manufacture date is 8/1975!! Oddly enough I ran into some of my old shifter cart racing buddies and got a chance to talk to my (racing) arch enemy. Turns out he's now employed by a Nascar team. Nascar uses the Holley 390cfm 4bbl double pumper carb!! Turns out that my buddy just got done with a test/tune on the 2010 team car and is willing to give up the carb on the test car!!!!!!!!! Hot damn I say cuz mines a falling apart and I use the 390 carb on my 280Z. Wierd how things turn out eh?? However theres a catch. I don't get the metering blocks and all the air bleeds will be removed. Possibly due to private carb tune info?? A freebee is still cool with me!!! Here's the pix of my current work.. The water pump mounted.. Air to water innercooler mounted.. Carb hat mounted/current state of madness!!

Thats the current picture of my engine bay. I have found a company thats making a air/water innercooler for me. Its 11.5 inches long, 9.5 inches tall, and 3.5 inches thick. the inlet side will face the turbo with a 2.5 inch input. The outlet will face up at the hood. Thats 2.5 inch also. From the output will be 2.5 inch to 3 inch 90 degree silicone adaptor.

WOW thats almost my current setup. I don't have an innercooler insstalled yet. I would like to know about your friends carb

Personaly I'd rebuild/refresh and install the kit on a Z just for historys sake. Not a daily driver but mabe a weekend toy. Swe how did you come across this anyway? I see you live in Sweeden. E-bay find?

well no @@## tony. I said I never saw one running. TRY to read ALL of my post. I have seen drawthrough turbos that needed new compressor side turbines. Possibly due to the wrong part used and or some kind of debris killing it. damn.

So now that I have some running/driving time on my setup I had to make some changes. First off I replaced all the plastic pipe pieces with aluminum and silicone. I had originaly used the spectre peices due to the price and availability. I knew they wouldn't last long as their design is for intake not the pressure side. Yes one of the elbows ruptured but theres always a schmucks close by and the part was replaced easily and cheaply. Heat soak is (was) also an issue. I noticed that the fuel in the float bowl closest to the exhaust manifold would boil and flood the secondary side of the carb after shutting it off. I didn't have this issue while running. So I purchased a fuel rail cooling fan (ebay) and an adjustable fan controller from Hayden. So far the fuel boiling issue is gone, but it is getting to be winter so I'll have to wait till summer to see if this solves my issues. So far so good. I made some more carb changes as well. I removed the secondary side pump arm as it was getting too much fuel pump when i put my foot in it. So no more double pumper. Now the car launches much better! I installed a Mallory uni-lite dizzy so that I could lock out the timing advance curve. I run at 18 deg timing. this keeps the detonation gremlins at bay. When I first installed the Mallory I didn't use the recomended ballast resistor. The accel super street coil lasted about 3 days until it overheated and died. That coil was internaly resisted but died anyway. I now have an MSD blaster2 coil and the Mallory ballast resistor installed. This works but the spark is much weaker so I might install a Mallory trigger box. The hyfire with rev limiter. I also changed my motor oil from castrol 5w-30 synthetic to Mobil1 0w-30. I think my engine will consume a bit when cold due to having forged pistons. I'll find out soon enough. Next round of work needed is to have the exhaust mainfold/down pipe sand blasted and coated. I will also be wrapping the down pipe and getting a turbo blanket. I still need to fab a heat shield to help protect the front brake line/ master cylinder. I noticed things getting too hot for my liking. I don't know the exact temps but the front brake line splitter gets too hot to touch and thats no good. I would like to have a short 4 inch to 3 inch aluminum pipe welded to my carb hat as the silicone coupler rubs the hood. However the hat is cast aluminum and I dunno how to weld it. I may also change the cam to a smaller duration. I'm currently using a 280deg/480 lift. I'm serously thinking about going to 260deg/480 lift.. Heres the pix....