280zex

Definately use lock tite!! I learned the hard way. I did not use any lock tite on my last flywheel and clutch install. I torqued all bolts to spec. This lasted about 5k miles, then things got loose. I lost the clutch, flywheel, rear main seal, front trans seal and bearings!!!! And yes I have all new hardware this time too, this cost me almost 2k to fix!!

Thanks for the input fellas. I had a chance to talk to a heavy equiptment repair guy last weekend. He took the time to show me the inner workings of a cat diesel fuel system. Fairly straight forward but them fuel pumps are a thing of art to say the least, plus purging a diesel fuel system is a pain in the @@@@. The pump I got to work with is a gear driven unit with electro solenoid input from the "gas peddal". The useable power with a full 80,000 lb is 900 to 1700 rpm MAX. Also we took out a 30ft box truck with a bypassing turbo (no boost) and man what a slug!! Its amazing just how much power is made from using hot exhaust gasses!! We went by his shop and he showed me some pictures of some industrial sized turbos, holy crap!! I seen a turbo the size of a 1972 vw beatle!!!!!!!

IMO throw that mallory as far away as you can, and do it quickly!! My Z ate 4, 2 on mechanical failure, 2 on electronic failure. They use a LED for the trigger (unilite), and LED's DO NOT like voltage changes. The unit was properly wired and I was using the mallory ballast AND "noise filter". Just use the stock unit, they are easy to get and rebuild. I picked up a 3 pack on flea bay for 29.95$ with shipping.

Dang wish I was closer. I gota 1998 toyota corolla, 4 door, 90,000 miles, 1 owner, Id trade with ya, but alas I live in Seattle... I learned long ago all the rules change in life when involving family/money. They just dont mix. Keep your chin up, and your eyes on the prize. One day you will have another Z. I know. My past sounds like yours except I was on my own at 15(abandoned). Thats almost 30 yeaars ago. I almost had life eat me up, but I kept my eye on the prize and now have a good life,woman,job,Z=perfect

Thanks John. I assumed this but like I said I'm no diesel tech. I was more curious about setting up a turbo in the same way, more purpose built for my perticular setup on the Z. I stopped by the turbo shop and talked to a tech who said that the extra $$ it would take to "match" a turbo to my system would be better spent on things like water/meth spray, better ignition upgrades, having my exhaust system ceramic coated, and getting a turbo blanket...

A friend who is a laung haul trucker called and asked if I could replace a broken injector and turbo on his 2000 Kenworth tractor. I said I'm no diesel wrench but could give it a try. The first thing I noticed is the turbo has no waste gate?? When I got his new replacement turbo from the shop they said it was purpose built. I never could locate any type of BOV either. charge pipe came off the turbo, connected to a huge innercooler, came outa the innercooler to the throttle body via 4 inch pipe. The engine itself looked like a RB style inline 6 cyl. exhaust and turbo on the passenger side and the intake and fuel pump/lines on the drivers side. The injectors are direct port, i.e. directly in the cylinder chamber. I was able to do the job without any issues, realy just a bit of a greasy job. My question is how the turbo was purpose built?? Why no waiste gate? The boost pressure guage always hit 25psi and stayed, while on the throttle, under load. I never did hear any type of blow off gas when shifting like I hear on my Z. There was no oil/block breather catch can either. the block was vented using a 3/4inch hose pointing at the ground. Also the turbo had a nice strong hiss sound, unlike my Z, it sounds like a screaming whissle @ 15psi. I noticed that the turbo pressure came on quick and strong as hell. I dont know if this type of setup is normal for heavy equiptment. My friend did have the powerplant changed when he got the tractor. It is a Caterpillar diesel. Just looking for more insite and general knowledge at this point. Thanks..

ok so it was due to a faulty torq wrench. My wrench was 15 ft lbs lower than spec. So I got new bolts, cleaned out the bolt holes in the crank, and got some red lock-tite. Torqued in a star pattern, 20-40-60-then 80 ft lbs. Good thing I realy inspected things as my back-up flywheel had a nasty little crack in it! What I dont like is the new clutch. I was running the like-factory exedy for 280zx turbo disc and pressure plate. That didnt like my extra boost, and was kinda slipping up realy big hills under load. I think it was rated to hold 250 ft lbs torq. My new exedy is rated for 400 ft lbs torq. It does NOT like trafic at all, its either in or out no slipping. As long as I kinda launch the car its ok but if I'm easy in it I get nasty chatter. Gona adjust the linkage and see if I can get a better feel for the new set-up. Whats odd is that it takes less pedal movement to work the new clutch, doesnt give much room to work the left foot, mabe 1/2 inch of movement once the pedal feels firm. Heck the clutch in the last race car I worked on was more freindly.... Thanks Tony that web site Bolt Science is awesome! Boy did I learn alot, now to go fix some in-correctly applied bolts in the car..

Been chasing a drivetrain gremlen. I found out last night that all 6 flywheel bolts were loose and ate the clutch friction disc.. I torqued them to 80ft lbs and have only 8k miles on them, however they were used but in good shape. A few of my other car buddies said that they always used new flywheel bolts. I have never had this happen on my Z before. Mabe my torque wrench is faulty?? I wish I would have checked the flywheel bolts before the trans went into the shop ;( So now I guess I need to get new bolts anyway, 2 of the bolts are missing most of the head from gringing on the clutch disc.... AAARRRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Am I ok to re-use flywheel bolts or get new ones?? I have others in the bolt bin....

I had the same issue. I got the factory fuel rail cooling fan (ebay 12$)and an aftermarket adjustable thermocouple (Hayden I think?) The thermocouple setup screwed right into the stock location in the heater core line (if you stil have this piece). Have a good battery too as the fan runs for a long time after shut-down. I have mine adjusted to run at coolant temps above 160F..

WOW I like!! why why did I have to look?? Man those wheels are exactly what I was looking for, staggered too!! anybody got 700$ I can borrow??

IF you want something different AND powerful go blow thru turbo/holley just my 2 cents. Unfortunately you will spend lots of money on gas!

I have been working on installing a T-56 into my turbo Z and this is what I have come up with so far. I sourced a T-56 at my local wrecking yard for 1K. This came out of a 2000 camero. I have removed my nissan trans and removed the front bell housing. Right now that beell housing is at a local trans shop that works on adapting different trans to different engines for racing purposes. What has to happen is this, The nissan bellhousing is being milled down and then this adapter plate is going to be welded to it.. http://www.mcleodracing.com/products/default.asp?id=5151 The fun part is that the input spline count for the T-56 is different than the Nissan clutch. So this same shop has my Fidanza flywheel, where a new surface is being made with the new clutch that has the correct spline count will bolt on to it. I am also going to use a hydrolic release bearing with remote bleed line. something like this.. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/QM-Hydraulic-Throwout-Bearing,4378.html My speedo is an autometer electronic type and programable, so i can use the stock T-56 sending unit. Then there is the crossmember to fab and the drive line. Also getting the correctly shaped shiffter linkage, but only after the trans is installed into the car. My only issue/concern is will the nissan bellhousing hold up to all the modifications needed? The trans shop did tell me that if the bellhousing doesnt work out to their required testing I dont have to pay for the work done to it. If the stock nissan bellhousing doesnt work I might then have to contact Taylor Racing and see what bellhousings they have that might work. Total cost for trans/ trans rebuild, bellhousing mods, flywheel mods as of this morning is $3000.00 US dollars and there is still alot of work to be finished. Projected total cost is $5500.00 US dollars?? Thats about what I spent on the L28 Blow Thru Turbo/Holley build I'm currently running. I hope I did my homework correctly on this or I'm SOL!! This is the web page that tells you all about installing a hydrolic release bearing.. http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/ignition-electronics-efi/rice-rat-rod-quartermasters-hydraulic-release-bearing/

well thats what I get for not doing a proper search here first. About the same time I replaced my trans I helped a friend with an iroc camaro. Oddly enough his 5 speed took atf too so I didnt question it at the time.

these pix were taken 7-14-2005. This trans has 8k miles sence these pix.

ok so I got the trans identified properly. Its a non-world class borg worner 5 speed from a 1982 turbo. So the auto-trans fluid caused the failure. What a bummer. I'm now left with a couple of options. I can get a rebuild for 1k with a new clutch. I can go with the 240sx swap or go with the Z31 and adaptor. Realy I'd like to go with the strongest trans I can get as my Z is turbo charged. I don't know how much RWHP it has due to clutch and trans failure. I figure that I went so bonkers with the engine and turbo build why stop there. There is a racing shop not far from here that does custom trans fitments for high HP cars so I'm gona see about getting a T56 setup for the Z. Its realy not that complicated but comes with big $$$. However I should have no more issues going this route. Done properly ofcourse. Thanks for all your help with my trans identification..

Well there is no webbing like in your pic. There is no plugs on the drivers side at all. there is a fill plug on the passenger side along with the speedo cable and reverse switch. on the tail end it has the tabs (for exhaust?) on bolth sides. The shifter sits in a round socket and has an inner rubber boot.

Thanks ezzzzzzzz. My trans does not look like the pic you posted. So not a WC T5 then. I hate it when I get the wrong information from a so-called trans shop. My fault for not looking for the proper info here first. The last shop that rebuilt the trans charged for replacement of the first gear, all bearings, syncros and the atf for a WC T5. 1040$ with a stock 240mm turbo clutch kit. I did the removal and install. So gear oil it is. There is a local Z shop where I can get an exchange for 940$ with a 1 year warranty.

wow Tony you bring back so many "vintage" memorys with Hillborn equiptment. I'd love to play around with that stuf!

So I reciently had my 5 speed gone thru again due to clashing gears. When I drained the fluid there were funny looking chunks in it. kinda like small fabric like teeth? My local trans shop said they were most likely particles from the syncros. I was told by the last shop that did the overhaul that I have a world class 5 speed and to use automatic fluid. Now the current trans shop said I have a non-world class 5 speed and the automatic trans fluid killed my bearings and syncros.. So how is that possible to kill bearings with auto trans fluid? I can possibly understand the ruined syncros, as mabe they were ment for different types of lubricant/friction qualities. I got this trans from an 1982 280ZX turbo, however that doesn't mean that its a world class trans. I dunno how to properly identify this 5 speed and the shop that has it now will not let me take it home to identify it (while its taken apart) and then return for final rebuild. They said I could tamper with it and then sue when it fails. So far the front bearings are shot and all the syncros need replacing. I guess this is what I get for failing transmission class.................

Thats right ezzzzzzz I do have to shift just before a crosswalk in a inersection. Usualy I just take off in 2nd..

Yup just what Brad-Man said. I have the T5 and 3.90 rear with a turbo setup. I have to shift so damn fast to keep the turbo working is a pita.. 60 mph is 3k rpm in 5th with 225/50/15's. I shoulda kept the 3.54 but I sold it...

Man I need to learn how to weld!! Nice work Noddle

you can go to http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ for all your plumbing and inercooler stuf. Get this boost regulated fuel pressure regulator here.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13202/ The T3/T4oe 57trim/63 compressor turbo and Factory turbo exhaust manifold was from ebay.I had to get the stock Nissan 280zx Turbo fuel injection cooling fan. the carb would boil over after the engine was shut off. Any fan will work but Factory parts are nice!!I also had to make a carb heat shield using 2 carb to intake gaskets and a thin piece of aluminium. READ THIS WEB PAGE OVER AND OVER for how to modify a Holley carb for blowthru. I followed this information exactly. http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html You will need to make this part.. Its easy to do.. http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=110547.0'>http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=110547.0 I followed this information exactly using a Holley 2.5 power valve. I have this adjustable 1 to 1 throttle linkage.. http://www.holley.com/20-122.asp I have these Quick fuel metering blocks.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QFT-34-9/ Use these floats... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-116-10/ I have this intake manifold.. http://www.arizonazcar.com/manifold.html Here is the web site where I learned to make my Datsun a blowthru turbo.. http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php

Blow me