280zex

Nope, I do have the funding, however I feel that my $$ is better spent on upgrades on my '76 280Z. Not to mention my motorcycles. I did come across a possible collector piece, the price is 250,000$ for an original condition 432r. Honestly I dont think its worth it, mabe for a museum, but not for me. I just like rare old JDM cars, and finding good pix of the head used on the s20 are hard to find...

I have used google, got the factory specs. However I'm not finding much on the head itself, flow #'s, cam info, chamber cc's.

I have been doing some research on the 432r engine, realy nice piece of work it is.. 432= 4 valves, 3 carbs, 2 cams. Some reading on the internet says that there was a factory offered titanium exhaust header!! Any body here, cough TonyD cough, have any good engine compartment pix available to share?? I'm realy curious about the head used on that s20 engine

Ya exactly, I do notice that bolth my cars that now run the Mobile1 start easier and idle better.

this was my thought, also that my motor is still fresh and the rings still need to seat fully.

I'm now using Mobil1 0w30 full synthetic oil in my Z. Turbo/carb setup on a F54 block/crank/rods, turbo oil pump, ITM cast pistons, N42 head with solid cam and spray bar. I rebuilt the entire engine and did the 5k mile break in on 10w30 standard oil, changing the oil/filter every 1k miles after the first 500 mile initial oil/filter change. This is the first time I have run full synthetic oil in any of my Datsun engines. I actualy get 10lbs of oil pressure during a cold engine crank to start, then the pressure jumps right to 60lbs. After the engine warms up to 200f water temp, I get about 15lbs oil pressure at idle/1100rpm and 50lbs pressure at 3.5krpm @ 60mph. I do use the napa gold filter with anti drain back valving, so this is my guess as to the good oil pressure during cold start ? I cant believe how much better my engine idles and starts cold compaired to standard oil. The only issue I have noticed is that my engine does consume a little oil, mabe 1/4 quart per 3k miles. I'm actualy seeing some better mpg too, roughly 3mpg's better than before, while using standard 10w30 oil. I decided to change my oil in my 1998 Toyota Corrola to the Mobil1 0w30, and guess what?? I get an average of 34mpg, compaired to 30mpg using standard 10w30 oil. I have read the stories about premature engine component failures on older engines running newer full synthetic oils, however I don't know the condition of their engines when changed from standard to synthetic oil.. I do realy notice a difference in my Z engine, it seems to rev easier, start easier, and idle smoother. Does the 1/4qt oil consumption per 3k miles seem odd?? OR is this due to the synthetic oil being realy darn slippery stuff??

Somewhere around HBZ there was a diagram on how to make a good wedge out of some oak door trim. I followed the instructions and made the edeges somewhat rounded with sand paper. It works like a charm!! Nice and snug. I als0 put a brass hook on the end with a bright red zip tie on it, so you can see that is installed. IIRC the oak was prefered as its a good hard wood and less likely to splinter

Nothing stuck, just the way my system works

I shot some video of a 4th gear pull while at a private race track. Unfortunately I wasnt allowed to hit 5th gear, as I didnt have an official car inspection, and this was my first time on this track. This shows how much boost creap my blow thru holley/t3to4e with internal waste gate set at 7psi will build. The fun thing is that if I stay out of the secondaries on the carb, I dont get the boost creap. Basicaly I can control the amount of extra boost over 7psi with the gas pedal. At wot in 5th gear the system will build to 20psi, and I get to 145mph @ 6400rpm realy damn quick!! IMG_0119.MOV

I installed a chevy 1 1/8 master cylinder after getting a bad batch of remanufactured stock master cylinders. This was a fairly straight forward modification, however I would like to change the booster out for something larger. I currently have the toyota 4x4, 4 piston NON vented disc brakes in front, and rear Stanza single piston callipers with canadian 300zx NON vented disc brakes in the back. I do have the stock e-brake set-up and this works great with the stanza callipers, mabe a little more handle action over the stock drums but not much. What I realy want right now is better brake pad materiel, something better for all this rain we get here in Washington!!

Enjoy the air dam

Enjoy the air dam

No worries I still have the air dam, email or pm me and we can figure out whens a good time to stop by!

I guess I got lucky with my flee-bay 3 core aluminum radiator. I had to cut some of the flange off the bottom and drill the mounting holes. No leaks on the radiator, however the cap started leaking out the top of the assembley rivit!!! For me the 3 core is overkill for my turbo 280z here in Washington state. I block off half the entire radiator, on the passenger side of the car, and I still dont get good temps when is 40 deg F or colder.

I'm not shure why your door and windshield gaskets are not working well for you? I got the same kit from MSA for my 280z and everything fit perfectly!! Send me a text if you get stuck.. BTW did you get your valve train issues sorted out??

If you have mixed drive train parts z/zx, you might have the wrong throw bearing distance. To check this, remove the slave cylinder and push rod. Then check to see how far the throw bearing linkage moves by hand. If it moves (slop/gap) more than 1/4 inch with out resistance, then you need to get the correct size throw bearing. I did this once by accident, everything seemed to work, but I had no proper clutch enguagement. There is (?) 3 different lengths to the throw bearing and this can cause the clutch system to seem that it works correct, but the throw is too short!! I cant remember if its the throw bearing OR the throw bearing collar OR bolth, sorry I never did take notes on this, I just had the correct parts laying around...

I purchased 1 of them ebay universal fit 3 row aluminum radiators, fits 240/260/280z/zx. The flanges were not pre-drilled. All I had to do was cut 1.5 inches off the lowest part of the flanges to pass the frame rails, then drill the mounting bolt holes to match the core support. The radiator works so well that I had to block 1/3 of the cold side of the radiator just to keep the temps up. My only issue is that the rad cap started leaking at the assembley rivit on the top. The writing on the cap was in chinese, so no looking that bad boy up at Orileys. The parts guy just started opening up boxes and the 3rd one worked. The radiator cap mount is smaller than the standard Z, and what fit was the 2000 Honda CRV V6 cap. The cap pressure is 1.1 bar so 18lbs?? Unless you are willing to pay the $$ for custom fit parts, your going to have to make things fit by trial and error. This aint automotive 101. AND the new radiator cap started leaking after 30 days of use, so even new parts crap out!!!!!

I have a good head, cam, rockers for ya at a good price. I "think" you might have a cam tower issue. I can drop by next week end and have another go at it. I have a bunch-o-parts just lying around, and they could use a good home. I should hit-up Devils30 and drop by sometime. Have a Z fest!!!!

any updates?? have you looked at them rocker arms and valve tappets??

Reciently I have been scouring the innerwebz researching Formula 1 type fuel injection setups. What I mean is ITB's with the injector pointing down the throat of the throttle body, so for our L28's that would be 6 ITB's and 6 suspended injectors. I was curious if anybody on HBZ has taken this aproach to FI yet?? You could (hypotheticly) fab an ITB with the throttle blades super close to the intake port in the head, so close infact that the blade could be somewhat inside the intake port. Then fab some TB horns/velocity stacks inside an air box. The air box cover itself could be fabbed to hold the injector rail, getting the spacing from the injector nozzle to velocity stack within the correct distance to use the maximum spray pattern of the injector to its full potential. I have done some hand sketches at 100% scale and used some tid-bits of old motorcycle carbs to mock-up a rough idea. What suprizes me the most is that from what I can tell from the you tube vids of F1 injection, they dont batch fire the injectors. They apear to just be open or closed, and when open the use of a rising rate FPR (RRFPR) of some type is used. When off throttle the injector is closed = zero fuel. In theory I "guess" that MSnS could be programmed like this?? Say batch fire the injectors until 3krpm, then go full open and use a RRFPR to up the fuel pressure? Right now I'm stil in the "guessing game" stages. I have an old head I can modify, a bunch of old CV type motorcycle carbs-they work just like SU carbs. I can cut off the throttle blade and linkage ends from the carb body, giving me 36mm ITB's with the linkage bits! I would like to weld the ITB's to an aluminum intake flange, getting the throttle blades as close to the intake port in the head as possible. I haven't cut anything yet. I think I might use the carb circuits for an idle circuit, so the injectors are off at idle. Mabe use the carbs for the low end/off idle, then crack the injectors at 2k to wot?? Not batch fire, but rather open/close, and use a RRFPR for the fuel flow. IF I had a mill, I would rather make an aluminum intake manifold flange with throttle blades just inside the gasket surface area. Just enough to get a throttle shaft through the 6 intake ports. This would definately get the throttle blades inside the intake ports, which would take some porting but no big deal there. I dont have a way to make corectly sized velocity stacks at this time either. Another question is would you want the entire velocity stack inside the air box, or just ends mounted flush, keeping the stack itself outside the airbox?? What lenght should the stacks be?? Like I said, I'm still in the "guessing game" part of this idea..

So the Rhino Lining added about 10 lbs of extra weight. I decided to add some extra bracing using some 1/8 x 3/4inch aluminum flat bar. I used the old bolt holes from the original bumper mounts straight to the inner sides of the lower opening of the dam. I also found some conviently placed threaded holes in the bottom of the rad core support. I used those for 2 more anchor points, going directly to the bottom inside lip. This gives me 6 points of secured contact, 2 (per side) under the head light buckets, 2 from the frame/original bumper mount points, and 2 off the bottom of the rad core support. I blocked off the entire lower opening with some aluminum sheeting and ss rivits. I just couldn't get the engine to build water temp with the big opening. I also block off the entire cold side of the radiator with cardboard. A 3 core radiator in the PNW is just over kill, unless you drive a real race car!!

Make shure you go back and check them valves!!! and check your oil spray bar. Remove all your spark plugs, remove valve cover, and turn the engine over with the starter. You should be able to see oil coming outa the squirter holes quickly. Just make shure they spray in the correct direction (rocker arm to cam). Get a towel/s on the passenger side of the engine. I have done this, it works, kinda messy, 2 people is best for this job. Also make shure to rewire that fan control directly to the battery. It will turn on and off automaticly. I have the same setup installed for 6+ years. It has never hurt the battery, even with the 2 different fans running at the same time...

I have no spray equiptment, and the diy roll-on is not the same stuf. They will be giving me a UV protectant coating over the top of the rhino liner. I have used the diy before, lasts about 3 years, no thanks!!

personaly it sounds like your timing is slightly off. Take a step back, chill, do some reading here on HBZ. Check the most simple of things, like the center contact nipple inside the dizzy cap. I had one "look" ok but when I poked at it with a phillips screwdriver, the darn thing fell apart!! Check your dizzy wires at the pick-up unit, or points. Many a time did I belive that my wire crimp was ok, then re-checking my work, I descovered that I got the wire housing inside the crimp. This gives a very weak signal, almost enough to work, but not quite. If you are getting a backfire using starting fluid, my bet is your dizzy timing is a bit off. Just enough so to piss ya off!! Dont freak out is the best thing I can tell ya right now, I pm'd ya my fone number. I can bring out another electronic dizzy, my timing light and some other goodies!! We will breathe some life into that Z of yours in no time fo sho!!

Free MSA type 2 air dam, kinda beat up. fits 280Z. Local pick-up (auburn, wa) or I can deliver for the price of the gas I use.