lithium4750

I put a 350 with a 5-speed in my Z about a year ago. It's not the fanciest conversion or the best looking but I enjoy it alot.

thats twice as much as i can spend so no, unless u want to lower it lol

So from the info I've gotten from these posts and the experience I've had driving my car I've come to this conclusion. The alternator is only going to put the amount of voltage or amperage back into the battery that it needs. So before I rebuilt my carb it took alot more to start the car which in turn took more energy from the battery, therefore putting more energy through the wires and fuses to recharge the battery and not to mention the radio or lights which blew the fuses and so on. I have rebuilt the carb since then and it takes alot less energy to start the car since it turns on with the first turn of the key pretty much every time. So less energy taken from the battery to start the car means less energy coming from the alternator to replenish that which was lost. You will only put out as much as you can use?

Ok so I followed the wire today and it seems to be going back through the harness to the fusible link box (BAT (green) IGN (black) style) then back to the battery somehow. That all seems as it should be to me and how the Datsun one was run also. I'm guessing I will be ok just to get some 10 to 12 gauge wire and replace all the wire and fuse holder with it back tot he original white and red wire? And I'm pretty sure it's something like a 90 amp alternator because I didn't pay anymore to get a higher amperage one.

As I said before I didn't do the wiring but have gotten better at it since getting it done. I will go through it and explain it more in detail tomorrow and maybe even draw and scan a diagram. I will also check the alternator and see what output it is but it is a reman from Autozone, uses an exciter wire. I'm not sure if the wire coming from the alternator is going straight to the battery or to the starter but it definitely has a fuse in between it and wherever it goes. I'm sure the fuses I'm putting in it are way under the rating of the alternator but the highest I can get in these size blade fuses are 40 amp. I will have everything specific answered tomorrow for sure and maybe even some visual for you guys to look at. I just need to get it figured out before I try and drive it 3 hours to school in Statesboro. The engine runs like a top but this problem is making the whole thing kinda sketchy. Thanks for all the help so far guys!

Thanks for the info. That's really weird to me because I'm not a very electrically inclined person and had someone do the wiring on my car. It seems weird the pros would put a fuse in line between the alternator and the battery. And the fusible link that blew was the stock one put there by Datsun, and even then it wasn't the battery it was the ignition one right next to it.

I have a SBC in my 260Z and have been driving it for awhile now. I've noticed that it blows the fuses every now and then from the alternator to the battery. They are 30amp fuses and I thought that should be high enough but maybe I'm wrong. I was driving it the other day and all at once the car shuts down. I get out and immediately check the fuse... it's blown. I replace it and try to start the car but nothing happens. Turns out I blew the fusible link on the firewall for the ignition. I replace that and everything is back to normal. The alternator charges fine and has never blown a fusible think other than that one time. I've got an exciter wire coming from the #2 prong of the alternator to the BAT terminal but no wire from the #1 to an idiot light in the car. Does anybody know what's going wrong?

Here are a few pictures of it being put together and all one color again. The only thing thats wet sanded and polished in drivers side quarter panel which you can see in the picture came out really nice.

Here is a pic of it with clear. It came out with a fair amount of orange peel but that was to be expected. I'm going to follow the direction on the back of the can and wet sanding in with 1500 grit paper then coming back with 1500 grit compound on an orbital buffer. It says high speeds are too risky but it could take weeks to get the shine to come through with an orbital but we'll see. I'll keep posting.

I have a 260Z undergoing paint right now and was thinking about the exhaust. I recently put in a Chevy 350 and have two 90 degree bends into two glass packs running off of headers. I want it to be streetable but when I open it up a little bit to get louder. Its a daily driver so I don't want it to be really loud or obnoxious when I drive 3 hours on the highway to get to and from school. Any ideas and tips from what you guys got on your rides?

I'm painting my Z this blue from duplicolor paint shop. There is no reason if you do all the prep work correctly and spray it properly that any paint wouldn't last for a long time on a car. Just because this is only $20 a quart doesn't mean it's bad paint it just means they are giving you convenience and hope you can't paint your own car because its a whole system you use together. Paying thousands or ten thousands on a paint job doesn't mean anything because if you pay that much its not gonna go a week without being polished and it will never get exposed to rain or snow. Yeah Rustoleum will last forever because its made to do that, but it's not necessarily made to be put on cars, just metal. They made this system to help us and make it that much easier to paint the car cuz god knows the bodywork and prep (the stuff that really matters) is hard enough by itself. I'm behind this product 100% and will post some pics when I'm done. Also about 3-4 years down the line to prove it. But for now here are some pics in it's current state. 2 coats of base awaiting 2-3 coats of clear.

This is the blue from the duplicolor paint shop series. It looks nice after two coats. I'll put a third coat on so it might be a little darker, plus the clear coat that will be it nice and shiny. I'm 19 and doing it in my garage. I've painted the Z once before and was expecting runs and sags but this paint is so easy to spray and it's premixed. No runs, no nothin', just color.

This is the Blue from the Duplicolor paint shop collection. I haven't put the clear on it so far so that's why it's dull but this is what it looks like after two coats. I'll be putting on one more so it might be a tad bit darker. Hope it helps.

I'm kind of new to the whole swapping scene. I have a 350 with a 5 speed transmission behind it. So for anyone who is doing a swap with a fuel injected motor, even on a Z, give me a little advice. I'm not exactly sure what to do with the injector harness and any of the other wiring.

I parked my 260 for awhile and while it was sitting I decided to put a radio in it. The dash lights worked when I parked it but after I hooked up the radio now they don't. The map light, turn signal indicators in the tach light up and the blue bright light works. The fuse is fine and I don't remember disconnecting any wires. I'm suspecting its the bulb but I'd like some second opinions.

We just blew the engine on our '79 280ZX, and we've decided it would be a nice strip 'er down, and build 'er up project. So we're on the hunt for a 305 or a 350, gutting it from the back to the seats, losing everything but the dash. We're gonna throw in some racing seats and harnesses (hoping that we need them ) and have some fun. I was just seeing some if some of you other guys who have swapped for some american muscle and or even just made a race car have some pics or advice for me, because I've been waiting for something like this to work on for a long time and hopefully can take it to some Z things and be respectable. Thanks, Phil

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16X7-RIAX-MONZA-HYPER-BLACK-WHEELS-SET-OF-4-NEW_W0QQitemZ8047418327QQihZ019QQcategoryZ43956QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemI was wondering if the backspacing and offset on these wheels would work well with a 260 if i got the 4x100 lug option.

I was wondering if the backspacing and offset on these wheels would work well with a 260 if i got the 4x100 lug option.

I have a 79 ZX that I am selling, could I use a regular ZX engine and just use the Megasquirt ECU with that engine? I could just buy a used turbo manifold and turbo from another car. I've been readin and all I want is a significant amount of horsepower, it is my daily driver but I do wanna open it up every once and awhile. I think I could get 250 to 275 with puttin a turbo on it quite yet I will probably start by putting a cam and tuning the carbs first. then if i just need more horses I'll look into the turbo. But if I find a good deal on a zxt, im gettin it.

Would it be best to get a ZX fuel injected engine if I put a turbo on it? Or is it ok to leave it carbed?

I have a 260 with a 280 block, 260 head and early S.U.'s, and I was wondering what the best approach to puttin a turbo on it would be. To buy a nice one and just get a $300 manifold from MSA. Or I could pull a stock one off a ZX and see how that works. What turbo options do I have that will bolt up to a manifold bought from MSA.