dwarlick

All finished. IMG_2199.MOV IMG_6758.mov

Well, it's been a while since I've updated my progress and as with most of us life has gotten in the way of what I want to be doing which is finishing my Z. Here is where I am now: Dash is in All electrics lights, wipers, etc. are installed and work (however both wiper and headlight switches are a little glitchey but will do for now) JDM Tail lights are rewired to light properly. Brake system is installed completely (just needs to be bled) I found some Sumitomo MK63 twin piston brakes that I believe are a direct bolt-in option for the Z's of this era. I'll get some pics in the next few days. The fuel system is in process now. I am just waiting on a couple of ordered parts to get the tank in. Once the fuel system is complete I'll be ready to drop in the drive train. The motor is engine dyno tuned and broken in and ready to go at 209hp @ 8,300 on pump gas. With a redline of around 9k rpm! I have a sheet I'll post soon. My goal is to have it done by christmas.

Here are some updates. I was able to track down an R192 4.44 from Japan. I took it to a local specialist and other than needing the seals replaced which I sourced from Japan as well it was good to go.

Yes, it's 918 orange. I won't be doing the black hood though that was on the Z 432R. They are McKinney mounts.

Getting closer here are a few pics of the under side and cabin. This is all single stage with a factory look undercoating. The engine compartment is getting sanded and resprayed in dual stage along with the rest of the body.

I don't think the RB20 with Carbs will put out enough torque for that to be much of an issue.

I think it was like $1,200.

I want to run a 4.44 gear in the rear. I am seeking advice in the driveline section as to which one to use. It seems like the Subaru would be pretty straightforward. I had these pistons made by Arias for NA.

You may have seen my Z432 tribute project in the RB section where I will be using a RB20 which has been back dated to triple carbs. As some of you know z432 came with a rare Nissan R190 differential with a 4.44 gear ratio. The RB20 setup I am doing will have similar rev characteristics to the S20 and I would like to have rearend gearing to mimic the driving experience as close as possible. So what are my options? Yahoo Auctions Japan has a R190 listed currently for $1,500 plus shipping. The picture is not detailed and who knows what kind of condition it is in or if it even is what the seller claims. http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m129326383 Another way to go would be a Subaru Sti R180 LSD with the Wolf Creek side axles. There are a few of these on ebay but I have a few questions: Are my options limited as to which Subaru R180's came with 4.44 and LSD? Do I want a CLSD or would a VLSD work just as well for my application and is that even an option? Do I want 2 or 4 pinion and again does it matter?

In the mean time I have been accumulating parts for the build. I have a few rare JDM parts that will help to make this closer to an actual z432 rather than just the look. My goal is to simulate the driving experience as close as possible. JDM Tail lights (reproduction) JDM Grill (NOS) PS30 10K Tach (Used)

Believe it or no this project is progressing. The body is very close to being ready for paint. The floor pans were replaced and the frame was trued up and straightened on the frame machine. I am very happy with the job this shop has done. It has been with them for a long time but they have worked steady on it the entire time they have had it. I can't imagine the hours they have in this rotisserie restoration. I can't wait to see it painted.

FWIW When I swapped the GT2860R-5s into my RB26 it was no bolt in affair. The plumbing had to be reconfigured and it was a lot of time waiting on parts. Before I did the swap I debated about updating the stockers to steel wheel. The tech I had working on my car at the time talked me out of it because she thought that since the wheels were not installed by Garrett the turbos would be unreliable. I took her advise and opted for the N1 turbos. There was a noticable difference in the boost response from the stock GT25s but they were only running 12lbs of boost and the N1s were at 18 (which is still mild for the N1s) and at higher RPMs the car felt unstable and easily lost traction in straight line accelleration. Given your situation of having kaput turbos which are worthless I would find a reputable shop that could rebuild your turbos and upgrade to steel wheels and reinstall them and see what you think. You should be out less money and if you decide later that you need to get the N1s or go with a single for that matter.

The fuel should recirculate and maintain an ambiant temperature because it recirculates back to the tank and cools. It will have a rise in temperature as it approaches the heated fuel rail of a hot engine but it is moving at such a high velocity it should not rise too high. A faulty or cavetating pump will also cause an abnormal fuel temp rise. Also the act of the pump compressing will rise fuel temp but under normal operation not to the point of vaporazation. The reason I suggested a pressure guage is that when I was having motor issues it provided instant feedback as to what was going on with the fuel system. I had issues with the tank pickup, the lift pump, multiple clogged fuel filters and the surge tank. These issues were more quickly isolated because as I saw a rise to high RPM the fuel pressure would drop off to nothing and the motor would fall on its face.

I would suggest adding a fuel pressure gauge as well. This would help with diagnosing this problem and other issues in the future.

Part obtained! Please Delete.

I need one to complete a motor set for resale. -Danny

I am still in the mock up stage. I want to get all of the parts fitted then when I dismantle for paint I will change the cams and pistons while the motor is out of the car.

Here is a picture of the modified header.

Its been a slow process getting this thing going but I do have a few updates. The motor is running and the ignition system is firing correctly I abandoned the Megasquirt/CAS attempt and opted for a Megajolt/EDIS setup. I could have used the Megasquirt with EDIS which is what Matt at Megasquirt kept telling me but I was intent on using the CAS in my attempt to mod the board to read the CAS I fried it following the wrong wiring diagram. The megajolt setup is super simple and very small. The coby header was able to be retro fitted and looks very nice the guy who did it did an amazing job and you can't even tell it has been modified. I found a very nice Fujitsubo exhaust from Japan that is commonly used on the Z432. I will make a video of the motor running and take a few more pictures in the next few weeks. After I get the drivetrain sorted I am going to strip the car down to the shell and get it off to paint. While it's in jail I am going to swap the cams and pistons for n/a.

I used ebay. Six speed online would have been a good one but you have to have a certain post count before you can post in the classifieds. I felt that serious buyers will all migrate to ebay if its something they want. Good Luck!

Bad news on the header. The Coby header I ordered from NZ will not fit at all the steering rod is right in the middle of where the route and they hit the TC rod mount on the frame rail. Looks like custom is the only way. Oh well I wanted a highrise manifold anyway.

I think you have to take the lenses off and get to them from the inside. Be careful you dont break the lenses though.

I need good condition chrome center strips for my 72 240z tail lights. I have good lenses but the center chrome strips are heavily pitted and one is broken.

The flanges are welded to the old intake the alignment is pretty close it will require a little grinding to smooth out the rough edges. Now on to the linkage.