dwarlick

I think its getting good pressure 'cause when I loosened the hose clamp to the fuel rail (motor not running) it shot a stream of gasoline across my garage.

This is my first video since I got My R33 RB26DETT running in my '71 Series 1. I have several issues but first and foremost it runs like crap after it warms up. I have searched and found a few posts on this problem but I was hoping these videos might provide a more specific diagnosis. If you full screen the video you can see the throttle movement if that helps. Cold Start Then after running for about 3 min: Warmed UP Thank you all in advance. I really don't know where I'd be without HybridZ. I know I would never have attempted something like this without your inspiration.

You need to take a stock drive shaft from a 280z (R200 Bolt configuration) and have it mated to the Skyline drive shaft. They must be welded together and balanced by a reputable drive shaft shop. You probably have one local to you.

FWIW you don't really need the Z31 pick-up it won't fit properly on the RB26 with the rear sump pan anyways. All you need is the 26 pickup and some carefully bent steel tubing. I did it with copper tubing but I would suggest steel instead. Sweating copper to steel is a bitch (different fusion points).

This sounds like what is needed does anyone know if this would work for the tach? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSD%2D8132&autoview=sku

Its this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-Turbo-Intercooler-31x12x4-3000GT-Mustang-Supra-S13_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ002QQitemZ120319986447

I don't know the more I mess with things like FMIC the more i think a n/a RB25 or for that matter a L28t would be a blast and a whole lot less headaches. I haven't even scratched the surface on the wiring, MAFs, instrumentation or tuning... Oh well I made my decision and I'll stick to it.

I considered that and saw it mentioned in another thread, but I couldn't see how the clamps were gonna work.

I used these mounts in my '71 and had the RB26 with rb25 tranny bolted up in about 30min by myself. I did have an issue with the clearance of vent on the valve cover clearing the hood latch support though. I was able to correct this by redrilling the transmission mounts only. I talked someone at McKinney and they suggested modifying the valve cover vent but cheating the engine forward by a 1/4 inch seemed to be an easier solution.

I just did a quick mock up of my new FMIC and need some help. I wanted to use the stock holes in the radiator support, but the IC I got ended up being too wide to make the 90 degree turn. I then got the idea that if I flip the IC over I could angle the piping a little to make the 90 degrees. Does anyone see any problems with this?

After a little more investigating I now realize I have a pusher clutch. So I guess its not an R34? I still wonder if the release collar from the Z32 will work?

Does anyone know if the T/O (release) collar on the R34 GTS-T (RB25) tranny is the same part as the collar for the N/A Z32. This is a part that was lost in shipping and Karim is trying to track one down but the local dealer has the Z32 collar for $25 so if its the same than I could call off the search. The N/A Z32 part # is 30501-B6064

FWIW here are my new wats. I'm pretty happy with them. I have the lugs too but I have to change out the studs also.

I got the wheels to seat by grinding the calipers. I know this is not a permanent solution. I was wondering if the 280zx calipers will work with these hubs. ie. is the spacer for zx and 4x4 setups the same. Another thought is that if the caliper was further from the center it would fall in a part of the wheel that has more clearance. I was wondering if the 13" setups from MM or AZC would work with these wheels with no spacers.

I'm running a Kuhmo V700 265/45/R16. Its an R compound tire but this car is only a weekend car. They fit quite nicely. Hibdon Tire Center had a special price on them like $170.

If I could remove the piston from the caliper and use a caliper gague to determine how much to grind while measuring the thickness of the body I might consider grinding. But I have no idea how thick the body is and I don't think grinding it blindly is a good idea. Additionally I wouldn't know how to rebuild the caliper if I tore it apart. Austin, what brakes are you running on the front?

You know, I did notice a little vibration at around 110 M.P.H. J/K. I am only using the washers for test fitting.

Nismo, I'm pretty sure that I won't be able to grind 5/8" without perforating into the cylinder. LS1, I thought the S12+8 would work but when I compared them side by side the S12+8 would only provide about another 1/8 of an inch. I am only using the washers for testing purposes. The hubs and rotors plus shipping were a little over $700. Lunar thanks for the heads up. I was thinking the Wilwoods were gonna be the solution.

Looks like you are really close on the rear. I just mounted my RS-8s on the rear a few days ago and cut the fenders and that looks very similar. Why don't you just mount the zgs first and size them up before you buy the spacer?

I bought Ross' Billet '4x4' Aluminum Hub (4 lug) and mounted it on the right side. I also mounted my pretty new SW12 caliper. I then went to mount my pretty new Watanabe RS-8 wheel. When I did I noticed that the wheel was rubbing on the caliper, so I had to use some washers as spacer. I determined that I need about a 5/8" (15mm) spacer. But using a spacer presents a couple of problems: 1st - the wheel is rubbing on the airdam. 2nd - the wheels are 16x9 with a -13 offset. As you know this a common size for S30s with zg flares like I have and now the wheels are not in the proper position. I pulled the caliper off and mounted the wheel with no spacers and it didn't rub the airdam it was really close though. I am looking for ideas on what to do next. I really don't want to change the wheels because I have about $3k in them already. I also don't want to ditch the '4x4' brakes but I will if I have to. I should also mention that tires on the front are 245-45-R16. Picture of the hub and caliper: Picture of the wheel rub:

No its still on the motor.

Sorry about the syntax, but I'm an Okie and when I get rambling my grammar diminishes significantly. You answered my question. Thanks Tony D. I do wonder since the shifter is so close, could I bend it a little while I have it off the motor? I'd rather not cut the hole because I'm going to be swapping another motor and trans in a couple of months.

Yesterday I took the tranny out of my POS '78 2+2 and put it into my newly acquired '71 240. I did a quick search and i read all L motor trannies are compatible. So here I go. I had a little trouble getting the driveline off the 2+2 no big deal I got it. I dropped the tranny and remembered that the 2+2's had a bigger clutch so I took the pressure plate and clutch off and dropped it down and rolled it back out to the north 40. I then hoisted up the 240 pulled the old tranny and put them down side by side and noticed the shifters were different. I thought oh well they look pretty close. I then said to my buddy "I'm gonna swap the Clutch and pressure plate." He said naah the old ones still good lets just get it in there I said ok. I got up had a hell of a time with the shifter and after pulling booth upper and lower boots I got it in. We lowered it down and got the top buttoned up. I noticed the shifter was close to the front of the hole but it would go into gear. We then raised it back installed and bled the slave (which I had to go out to the north 40 and get off the donor). I then threw back in the driveline and dropped it off and started it up and threw it in reverse... Nothing no movement. What the heck did we do wrong. Even if the shifter is hitting before it will go into 1st and 3rd it should still move in 2nd, 4th and Rev. I came home ticked off and got on Hybridz to figure it out. I read until about 12:30am and figured the driveline wasn't going in all the way. I went to my friends shop today and pulled it off. Yea its engaging. So then I figure I has to be that the spline isn't locked into the old 240 clutch. Can anyone tell me if I need to put the clutch disk and pressure plate from the 2+2 into the 240? Or is there something else I'm missing.

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I actually hav a set of oem mirrors that have the same mounting hardware as the bullet mirrors. I'd be willing to let them go cheap because I can't even figure out what JDM nissan they went on. I think I paid less than 100 bucks for them I'll take offers.