dwarlick

I/C is a 4" ebay special and the radiator is a PRC double pass.

Not at all laggy. I have them on mine and they hit so hard and fast that traction is difficult maintain when you floor it. I'm not talking about dumping the clutch when shifting gears. I'm talkin' rolling along in 2nd at 30 or so and punching it and at about 50-55mph the tires break loose. Its insane! Dave, are you doing external wastegates? I did not, because I was under the impression that these are bolt on. They do mount but the oil lines were tricky. More importantly I'm experiencing boost creep because of the lack of a divorced downpipe. The turbulence is creating too much exhaust back pressure and the boost spikes and is uncontrollable. To correct it for now we had to partially open the internal wastegates so the boost doesn't build up so quickly. This has robbed me of quite a bit of horsepower but I wanted to drive it for a while before I tear it apart again. To fix it I'm going yo do the HKS twin manifolds and external wastegates.

There are very few tire options at 16x9 and 16x9.5 and the tires rub the fenders.

Custom Down pipe Custom 3" exhaust 5 Zigen 3" inlet 4" outlet Muffler

-13 front and -19 rear if I had it to do over I would probably do -6 front and -13 rear. I ordered Justin's BAMF flares for the rear.

Actually, going to the junkyard was going to be my suggestion. A z32 cable is a little shorter and may be about perfect. With the ITB's if you recall the cable had to wrap around and come in perpendicular to the motor. Where your throttle linkage is, you could loop the cable along the firewall and come off along by the fuel rail into the throttle plate sort of an S configuration (see the red line). I don't think you want to come over the top of the motor. Then you'd have to disconnect the cable every time you wanted to change spark plugs. I took the z32 foot pedal also and tig'd the top where the cable attaches to the top of the S30 pedal. Then anchored the plastic stop to the firewall.

Next up is a Z-32 brake conversion and then A/C. Beleive it or not there is room.

For the P/S conversion I did the Subaru rack (lika a '90s era legacy) the GTR non hiccas pump and the GTR reservior it also has a cooler in front of the radiator. With the heavy motor and wide tires it was a PITA to steer at driveway speeds. Now its awesome and gives perfect feedback.

I am in the process of having mounting brackets and custom 2 piece rotors fabricated for the Z32 30mm front calipers on my '71 S30. I am waiting on front hubs I purchased to get here then I will take them up to get fabricated. I also have a pair of 280 hubs so if the design works I may have them made for the 280 if people are interested. I'll be starting a thread on it when I get them going.

This is a street car setup right now. I have plans to do a 6 point roll bar to make it safer for the track and stiffen the chasis. The V-700's are great. The only issues are starting below 70 degrees the rubber gets harder and they lose there traction and the rears are a little wide at 265 for the wheel offset 245s would be better for the rear.

I always like to look at pictures of Z's on here for inspiration. I hired a photographer to snap some shots of the Z last weekend. I have been kicking around the idea of selling it but after seeing these I have inspired myself to hang on to it a little longer. Body ZG Flares (installed by the previous own OEM Nissan Fender Mirrors Interior Almost all Original Bride Knock-off steering wheel MSA rear Strut Bar 2 Gallon Red Devil Methanol Injection Autometer Pro Comp: 200MPH Speedo Tach with memory recall Fuel Pressure Gauge Fuel Level Gauge Vacuum/Boost Oil Pressure Water Temperature AEM Air Fuel Gauge Brakes and Suspension 4 wheel disk brakes Toyota S12+8 Brake Calipers front and S13 rear Operational parking brake Ground Control Coilovers Prepped by Techno Toy Tuning of Sacramento, CA Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable Struts Custom Eibach Springs 300 Front 350 rear TTT Adjustable Lower Control arms front and rear MSA 1" Sway bar front TTT Adjustable TC rods 15/16ths Master cylinder 280z Brake Booster Modern Motorsports front hubs 4-lug Drivetrain R33 RB26dett Stock Long Block R34 RB25 5-speed Transmission Dual Garrett 2860R-5 N1 Turbos 4" FMIC With custom Piping Using stock holes in the radiator support 3" K&N cone filters feeding dual custom cold air intake 60mm Tial BOV N1 Oil Pump N1 Water Pump RIPS Custom 8quart Oil pan cost over $1000 ATI Super Dampner HKS Adjustable Cam Gears HKS Timing Belt AEM Series 1 ECU AEM Wide Band Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator Tomei Fuel Rail 750cc Precision Injectors Mckinney Motorsports Engine Mounts McKinney Motorsports Transmission Mounts OS Giken cromolly flywheel OS Giken Twin Disk Clutch Custom drive shaft with Z32 CV rear joint for reduced vibration R230 VLSD 3.69 gear ratio from Z32TT TTT custom mounting with billet aluminium mustache bar Z32/S13 custom CV axles TTT S13 backing plate with S13 Rear Hubs 4-lug Autobaun 88 2 liter surge tank (external) Carter 150GPH mechanical lift pump Bosche O44 High pressure fuel pump Watanabe Type R wheels with Watanabe Lugs and Locks 16x9 front 16x9.5 rear Kuhmo V-700 Victoracer R compound tires 245/45/16 front 265/45/16 rear Custom Down pipe Custom 3" exhaust 5 Zigen 3" inlet 4" outlet Muffler

Yes you will have to eliminate the stock fpr.

Just have it rebuilt it will cost like $120-140.

Thats a nice bit of kit.

I think the DIY nature of people on HybridZ makes us under cut our own work. I could see how you would think that price is too high but add it up: Good Z candidate - 5-7K Chasis work and paint - 10-15k Built RB25 - $7k Arizona Z stuff - $10k Thats 32-39k at least. I know if I sold my RB26 for less than $40k I would lose money. And I remember before I started I thought I could do it for less than $20K

It appears the auction for the RB25 may have been ghost bid, but I also don't doubt that he has at least that in it. It was an extensive build with alot of high end parts. Also, there is no need for the hostile tone pat1 I was simply posing a question. Knuckle's sale price was 36% higher than the price he was asking for on Hybridz which is a significant difference and I thought was an interesting point of discussion in a forum on life support.

Are the value of our RB-Zs more than we realize? KnuckleDusters RB25de sold for $14,300 on ebay yesterday. Granted he hasn't got paid but he had $10,500 on it in the classified section for over a week w/no takers. Also an incomplete RB25 project on ebay didn't sell but the reserve was above $34,600.

I have just listed two different 200zr pans and pickups in the for sale section. One new one used.

I have a fresh rebuilt alternator PM me.

Hello, and welcome to the forum. If you read one of the top stickies entitled: "so you wanna swap an RB engine?" You'll fine a lot of useful info. I personally did an RB26 into my '71 Z and I'm pretty happy with it. Although I have said before that if I had to do it over again I would do an RB25. The reason is that these cars can't handle the power of a high horsepower RB26. I don't think anyone on here currently has an RBZ that has more than 600hp. One guy a while back had an insanely powerful RB30 which was strictly a drag car. So with the RB26 you are really just doing it for 'bling'. The RB25, with mild upgrades (injectors, standalone ECU, maybe a new turbo, and a good tune) will make your Z "$H!T your pants" fast.

Back in '07 I saw an orange 350z in a Nissan showroom that was solar orange I thought at the time the color would look awesome on an S30 and its a Nissan OEM color.

I went with a custom setup from TechnoToy Tuning for an R230. Their parts are very high quality. I had the same concerns about the way the backing plate attaches to the strut tube. But once I saw it in person I had no more concerns. All of there parts are extremely stout. They are great guys to work with. You can just call them and let them know what you want to do. I have considered putting the Z32 aluminium calipers on my setup but it would be little or no improvement on the rear over the S13 calipers and a lower performing caliper on the front vs. the Toyota 4x4's I have in the front. Having the Nissan logo on them would be cool for Car Show purposes but the aren't going to perform better. My R230: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89681-my-ttt-r230-install/

Boost, Thanks for taking the time to take some good pics and step by step this. I actually have to do this very soon and your tutorial will come in handy. Does it matter if the sensor goes back in the exact same position as it came out ie put the motor in TDC mark the position of the sensor etc.? I am not exactly sure how the ECU interprets the information provided by the CAS.

Yes

The Carter makes very little noise however the noise level of the Walbro is a pretty loud whine. I've burned up two of them and the closer they got to not pumping effectively the louder they got. I am not impressed with these units. I'm hoping the Bosch will last longer. As for the 280zx pump it should work well as a lift pump.