dwarlick

I'm using a Carter 72GPH (like 5psi) off of the stock 240z tank into a surge tank and a Walbro 255LPH off that. So far no issues. I have a bosch 044 on the shelf I'm just waiting for the Walbro to crap out again. I think the Bosch 044 has a higher flow rate than the Walbro but with the line coming off the fuel pressure regulator and going back to the surge tank before the surge tank overflows back to the fuel tank I don't think the transient high fuel demands of the engine will overcome the flow rate of the low pressure lift pump.

I have an RB26dett in my car. It is intended to be a streetable track car. Initially I had just an external Wlabro 255 in line on the OEM tank On launches and sharp turns I would get a sudden drop in fuel pressure. I added a lift pump and this surge tank and have had no problems. Mounting the canester upside down has presented no issues as of yet. Also as I said before there plenty of holes on what is now the bottom so if I want to add a second fuel pump when I upgrade turbos then it will be easy. I understand your concern about overseas purchases. I felt at the time it was so cheap it was worth the gamble and to my suprise it was a great transaction and an awesome part.

I put this 2 liter surge in my '71 S30 behind the mustache bar and in front of the OEM tank. It is mounted upside down underneath. This is designed to be mounted in a trunk. The nice thing is there plenty of holes so it can be mounted upside down. It looks like it is fusion welded at the seams and the bungs are hand welded very nicely. For 95 bucks it was well worth it. Also the shipping only took like five business days from Hong Kong. My link

zin, I went with the R230 for a couple of reasons. 1st I don't want to change my diff again. B, I was thinking I was going to have an oem rear axle situation which did not happen. I thnk the short nose r200 would be fine with a after market LSD but an r230 w an after market LSD would be ultimate. As far as your situation zin I honestly do not know enough to give good advice. Joel that diff should look familar to you. The axles are custom Q45/z32TT inners with S13 four lug outers and S13 spindles/rotors/calipers.

I am in the process of a complete TTT suspension and custom R230 install and wanted to share some pics of my progress. I have been through the stock R180 and an R200. I'm hoping this will be my last differential installation. The fitment is good but did require a little more cutting on the crossmember than I wanted but it should be easy enough to augment that area at a later date.

I went with the RB26. I liked the idea of a TT and I bought it a while back when good R33 motorsets were easier to come by. Honestly I think the 26 is just for the wow factor. Jtaylor's RB25 would smoke my car as would many other 25 setups on this board. Knowing what I know now I'd go with an RB 25 or maybe even an RB20. If you are looking for a DD or a fun trackday car and you don't have a death wish then the RB25 will do very well. Having said that I still think the RB26 is the tits.

That looks very nicely placed. The Front to rear placement is not hugely critical. I have looked at almost every RB post in this group for going on 4 years now and there f/r placement varies somewhat. That looks fine compared to my RB26 and others. It is a comprimise where it ultimately sits and it sounds like that position will require very little additional modification (ie modify manifold or shifter hole, etc.) That NEO looks awesome in that S30.

I forgot to mention that I had to drill new holes in the trans mounts because they were a little too far forward. It wasn't a big deal it was only about 3/8" difference and I didn't have room to scoot the engine further back because of the fittings on the top of the RB26 valve cover were gonna hit the hood latch w/the RB25 that shouldn't be an issue. If you do end up having to drill on those try to use a drill press I used a hand drill and it was very difficult. Also, the speed sensor is fairly easily accessable. Sounds like you might have the mounts for the earlier S30s.

I used the same kit with similar results. With my RB20 rear sump pan it almost touches the steering rack. I am switching to a RIPS custom pan so I'm gonna have to get some thicker isolators to raise the engine up. With the McKinney mounts you have to raise the engine to R&R the 200zr pan. I'm not sure if dropping the steering rack will give you enough room and with the limited access to the linkage it might be just as much of a PITA as raising the engine.

That appears right dude. When I first looked at it I thought it was backwards but it looks really close even though the camera angle is off.

I am wanting to upgrade my OEM clutch and was wondering if anyone has an opinion on these http://www.clutchmasters.com/index.php?module=site&action=GetPage&id=31&nav=leftnav_products.tpl Its a new product from clutch masters. You can get it either in a Stage 6 Kevelar/Ceramic combo or Stage 7 double ceramic. I spoke with Lewis at Clutch Masters and he said that they sold it with an aluminium flywheel to fit the RB26 with a push type trans. They retail for $2,350 but another supplier quoted me a price of $1,880+shipping.

I used three of those on my A-pillar. It should work fine on the column cover.

Honestly, a set of good 1in lowering springs are only 100-150 I would ditch those and get a new set.

The sensor has not been out of the transmission since I got it but the wire attachement on the end was broken off and I had to solder a wire to what was left. I have the wire hooked to the autometer speedo and when I go in to calibration mode it doesn't give off any readings which it is supposed to do. When I finish calibration mode the speedo does not work. The speedo is brand new and it does everything but calibrate.

Does anyone have an electronic speed sensor for the RB25 transmission. I am not getting a signal from mine. I am pretty sure it was damaged during shipping. Would have posted in parts wanted but its really kinda specific to this group.

I put the engine and gearbox in as one unit and I did it by myself. Be sure to take the shifter out of the gearbox.

What about an SR motor? Its gonna be cheaper and the parts are more readily available. I have an RB26 and they are great but come at a price. Plus you have to consider that the S30 engine bay was originally intended for a straight 6 and your car was designed for a 4 cylinder (I'm assuming).

Thanks for the kind words. Its been a long, expensive road and I'm not finished yet.

Heres a couple of my '71 RB26. I'm lovin it. I have also confirmed my life insurance is current.

I got my RB26 in my '71 Series 1 and running strong but I have a rearend question. The RB is making my poor old R180 weep and its going to explode any day. I have an R200 out of a junker 2+2 and I was just going to swap it out. However, I just bought a 2l surge tank and installed it in between the mustache bar and the fuel tank. Now I know I have to move the R200 diff back and I don't want to have to relocate the surge tank if possible. So I was thinking about swapping the OS Giken internals into my R180. What do you think? Would I still have to scoot the R180 back a little because of the half shaft allignment issues? Would the R200 be better?

I had my maf's connected via silicone couplers straight to the turbo inlet flanges. I had a 45 degree on the rear turbo and a 90 on the front. On the other side of those I had some rather large K&N filters. It worked and everything fit under the hood. I eventually decided to ditch the MAFS and went with the AEM stand alone. I also had the intake piping rerouted to the front on either side of the I/C. Because the cusom piping was rather costly I did not want to incorporate the MAFs only to redo them later. It is a big jump to go from stock to a stand alone ECU. At least it was for me. As for your problem are you sure the MAFs are both working? It sounds like its running pretty crappy with them connected. I would be willing to part with my old MAFs, couplers, and filters if you want to run stock for a while. PM me to talk about price. There just sitting on a shelf in my garage

Missed that part of the post. Sorry.

Be sure you fuel pump is hooked correctly. I had this same problem. In my case the polarity on the fuel pump was reversed and it wouldn't pump. Also double check the fuel is going the right direction according to the arrow on the fuel pump. You have gas in the tank right? What about a fuel filter. Just some ideas. Good luck. Danny

The shop threw it in as a freebee. The guy is very talented.

Great tip. Thanks!