ZROSSA

Thanks for the replys, I have completed all the major glass work. I am now at the smoothing stage. There is such a large expanse to do, I am realy trying to find something that is easer to sand then fiber glass its self that will still be compatable. Douglas

Might have to start experimenting myself. I do remember some here mentioning it in the past though. Racer-x, Terry O. ?

Howdy all, I was just going through old threads trying to look for easy ways to finish the body kit I have made for my old corolla. I have kind of made this like Terry O. did his blueovalz but my work is no where as good so there is going to be a lot of fiishing sanding and filling that needs to be done. I have used polyester resin to make the parts. I found a old tread by RACER-X that said to use epoxy resin with microsperes. Can you do this with polyester resin? I also remember someone saying they mixed bondo with resin but I cant find any more info about it. Anyone remember? Cheers, Douglas

Thats a real bummer about the parts being swiped. Sounds as though you know who took them. Give them hell. Anyway, Glad your back. Here's to the future. Cheers, Douglas

Pete, There was a guy here a while back (RB30z?) that did a na version of a rb30. He was also from aussie. Mabye the rb30 turbo that was in the c/dores has a lower head? That would still meet your objectives and probably be a lot less expensive. Douglas

JUJU, What lake are you on? Lanier (sp?) Douglas

Thanks Mike, I am pretty pleased with my self. Over the last four years I have been living on about 1/4 of what I used to earn in the corporate world while I set up this farm we bought. Big lifestyle change.We have taken a bare 72 acre piece of land and planted 40 in olives for oil and 32 in grapes for wine. Built 5000 sq foot house and a 3500 sq foot house and a 1500 sq foot shed with another one about to start construction. I have been looking after the property on my own and going back to uni. part time to get a wine science degree during this time. Its been a real 24/7 effort but its beginning to pay off now so I think I deserve a little treat. I dont know where the hell I am going to drive this beast. It has 225 wide tyres so traction is going to be challenging at all times and I think undrivable in the wet. Fortunately it doesnt rain much here. Dont really want to go much wider becuase then I will break trans' and diff's. Got to go to work. Woo Hoo! Douglas

Well I bit the bullit today and ordered some bits. The heads are AFR 195,s with angle plugs. Really liked the flow on these. They out flowed everything else I looked at by 30 cfm at .400 lift. Also ordered a 383 stroker kit that will end up giving me 10.0 - 1 comp ratio. The cam specs are 232/234 @.050, 302/300 advertized and .488 lift with 106/110 lobe sep. Crank is a scat 9000 so should be good up to 7000 rpm. Going to run a mighty demon 750 carb. This spec is very similar to the Afr ones on ryan car pages that is putting out 505 bhp. My engine builder want to play with the cam profile a bit to get it to pull hard to 6500 rpm. Might be able to even get a little more HP out of it. Old ZROSSA wont know whats hit it. Douglas

Mike, They were cast in New Zealand but have now gone under, Receivership, chapter 11, What ever you want to call it. I saw some heads of there's up for auction a while back and they went for $1300 nzd. I am not sure if they have moved the casting plant elsewhere in the world hence they are still avalable or if these guys are just selling the left overs. Stangly enough I e-mailed a whole bunch of links of head auctions on e-bay yesterday to my engine builder and he became rather excitable. I think he always just used a local distributer for ali heads and paid a awfull lot more for them. Anyway, He is the guy that wins races so I will let him choose the heads and how they are set up that fit in my budget. I would love some Afr's but with the price difference I can get a forged crank, which I might do. I would love to see the other side of 7000 rpm. Woo hoo. Douglas

Not sure if its a falcon engine or not. Mate down the road has one so i will go and have a look. If it is they are 4.0 lt with a 4v head. They are actually a decendent of the us ford straight 6. Douglas

Thanks guys, I have now found dart pro 1's for $949 assembled. These are 230cc heads with 2.08 inlets. Proabable a bit large for a 350 chev but with the money I will save I can probably stroke it to 383. Need to buy pistons and bearings anyway. Anyone seen any dyno numbers from these heads? Another thing thats concern is that Pro topline went into recevership here a while ago. I think you call it chapter 11 stateside. They may still be operating elsewhere how ever. Douglas

Mike, I really dont know what shipping will be to here but its got to be at least a couple of hundred bucks. I did find some fully assembled dart pro 1's on e-bay for $1100 us fully assembled with 2.08 intake valves. If I can get them here reasonably cheeply I would be very happy. Things are expensive here. There just is not a large market to suport large sales networks and any economy of scale. The dollar here is not worth as much as the U.S. The nz dollar is worth 70 cents us at the moment which is pretty high for us. It has been as low as 42 cents, so for us now is a good time to be buying from the U.S. Douglas

Nice dyno #'s. Almost 100 hp per lt and didnt rev past 6500rpm. Whats the compression? Douglas

Thanks Mike, Afr's would be my first pick but the would cost about $3500 nz by the time i could get them here. The pro toplines are more in my budget. I am trying not to spend any more than $2500 nz landed, Thats about $1750 usd and im picking shipping wont be cheep. I would like to make over 450 hp at the crank. Douglas

The quote for modifing my heads is rather expensive, so i think i would rather just get some ali heads. They are very expensive to buy in N.Z. so i have been looking at e-bay at the following heads that should fit in my budget. I am looking for fully assembled cnc ported heads or ones that flow really well out of the box. I have it down to 3 that i can afford. Dart iron eagle. Still steel but nice #'s pro topline - Used to be made here which is ironic. Renegade racing- I think its a copy of the pro topline. I think the dart head speaks for its self. Flow almost as well as Afr heads at 1/4 the price. Anyone had and experience with the other two. I could also use some good links to purcase these from. Closer to the west coast would be better for shipping. Chhers, Douglas

Thats good news Leigh. How much can you get the hyabusa bodies four? You dont even see them for sale here. Douglas

Tim, No worries. My engine builder is sold on demon carbs. He said you bolt them on and there is no fussing around with them. I will probably go that way in the end depending on what they cost here. Local guys are asking $1200 nz for them. Might have to go e-bay. Douglas

Yes, I would be interested. It would have to be a good price though. The cheepest i have seen them is about $3100 usd. At that price landed in NZ it works out to around $5000 nzd + a computer, fuel lines, pumps, and regulaters. That would be more then i have invested in the rest of the car put together. I guess a lot would depend on how much you pay for the throttle bodies. I also had a bit of a search around for some photos of the cross ram style use on the v8 supercars but couldnt find and recent photos. Always find it difficult finding tech. info. about them. Douglas

Tim, want to sell the 750 dp? I need a larger carb for my Z. Have a 600 vs now. Doesnt do it for me. Douglas

Have a read of the faq's in the link that john posted. They talk a little about it. They are basiclly saying that the higher rpm you turn the closer you will want the buterflys to be to the inlet valve. Do a search on the aussie v8 super cars. They probably have one of the best manifold designs for stock style chevy heads and they dont rev past 7500 rpm. The buterflys are quite far from the inlet port. Douglas

Here are some toyota ones on a lexus engine. http://1uzquadcam.co.nz/ 345 hp at wheels. Douglas

Thats a fair point P j. The only thing i can come up with is that the bike engine revs a lot higher and that there is not a lot of room on the bikes for the bodies so maybe they make them wider to compensate. I have a dyno test in an old car and car conversions mag. that did tests on different bodies from converted webers to tappered 48mm ones on a 2lt vauxhaul engine. The engine made the best all round power on the smaller bodies and only a little more top end on the larger ones. All made over 100 hp per liter. I will try to find a link to the toyota ones for you. Douglas

I would be in if they are a quality piece of work. Close as possable to equal length, and has good collecters on them. My car is right hand drive so its really tight on the right of the engine bay. Block hugers only just fit. You have to get around the starter, mounts and the steering. Not looking forward to having to fab some myself. Douglas

P.J. How big is the engine that you are building? S.B.C.'s that ran formula 5000 used 48 mm webers. The thing was that the venturi(sp?) was a lot smaller, mabye 38 mm. Fuel injection doesnt have the venturi so that a smaller body can flow a lot more than say a carb the same size. I would guess that each 42mm body would be enough to flow about 100 hp each. This is only from thing I have read so dont take it as exact, but it seems to work for smaller 4 bangers. Douglas

P J , The 4ag is the 16v (& 20v) 1.6 l toyota engine. The jap spec 20v engine comes with quad bodies. They dont seem to expensive to pick up. Douglas