ZROSSA

I think the only big difference we have with rigt hand drive is that there is even less header clearence on the right side. We have the starter motor, oil filter,cross member and the steering shaft to deal with. Leaves us room for very tight block huggers or a rather expensive custom set of headers. This is for a old SBC in a 76 2+2, But the ls1 isnt any smaller. Douglas

Went to the local toyota dealer. The parts guy said the 2x4 trans should bolt straight up. I wouldnt take that as gospel though. These guys were real wankers. Couldnt be bothered looking up numbers to double check. There wasnt any 3rz's in the yard. Turbo diesels rule the roost here. Whole episode left me feeling like never buying a toyota again despite haveing owned or raced one or more for the last 20 odd years. Douglas

Should do, Blocks the same. I will do a double check. Heading into town today so I will stop buy a dealer with a tape meassure as well. Douglas

Wow, that was fast. Here is the link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99561 Guess you have already seen it. I would double check all the 4 banger truck engines. Torque is fun no matter how light the car is. Always did like those opels. Only ever seen one here in NZ and it was a left hooker. Douglas

Hey Tim, What about the 3.0 lt toyota truck engine. 3..... something. There was a post on it earlyer on this site. Sounds very strong. Douglas

I had to do a whole bunch of these for my suki 4x4. I just used some copper tube that i cut a pie shaped bit out of and then brazed then back together. Ugly but works fine. Douglas

It just uses rockers like on a hemi headed two valve engine except you have four valves. Usually the spark plug wont fit in the traditional place and comes in from the side becuase of the rockers all over the place. Ther will be more valve train weight and the spark plug wont be in the optimum place so this set up is generally not as good as a good 2 cam set up. Douglas

There is a previous thread on this. I was quite interested in this but couldnt find much more on line info other then what was included in that thread. Douglas

Sometimes thats just the way things are. I have been working om my z for a good three years now. Have another project thats has about 10 years in it. I just do what I can when I can. Try to do all the things that dont cost much. If you can weld get the welding bits done. That doesnt cost much if you can do it yourself. Body work is only expensive when you are paying someone else to do it. I think you are onto something that hasnt been done before so when it is finished you will have something to be proud of. Take a bit of pleasure in the small victory's. Cheers, Douglas

Couldnt resist.

Mate........... You have been kissing the wrong end!

TC72, Measured the rims today. As I said before they are 16 x 7. Back of the hub mounting piont to the out side of the rim was 127mm. I am running 225/50/16 on these rims so they over hang a bit on both sides of the rim but there is no rubbing. I also have a 7mm spacer thats included in the above measurement. The closest point to rubbing is in the lower part of the spring mount and the tire. Not the rims. I dont think I would run a tire larger then a 235 on the front. I think a 8 or maybe even a 9 inch rim would work provideing you dont go past the above rim sizes. Hopefully I can put it to the test soon. Have my eyes on some 17 x 8 and 17 x 9 skyline rims that are on one of the local auctions. Might be needing flares after all. Douglas

Sounds cool. Alaways been a huge fan of the cult going back to southern death cult days. Shame Duffy's having to do covers. Buy the sound of some of Cantrells post AIC's stuff maybe he should stick to covers. We dont get much musical exicitement here in rural New Zealand. Its the only thing I really miss about living in the city. Spend half my nights looking for new sounds on the net, spend a lot of money getting them here and then finding you dont really like it. Douglas

Its always interesting to see how fast you run out of room. I built a 6m x 20m 20ft x 65.5ft) shed about 4 years ago. Basicly five good bays but we converted one into a lunch room. Out of room now and am building another on behind it thats a little bigger again. Douglas

Lot of wasted work there. No Triangulation that I can see. May as well just be a single hoop. Wouldnt pass inspection at any track here. Bummer. Douglas

Tony, I have 16 * 7's but could easily go to 16 * 8's. There is room. Mines a 2+2 though. No flares, no coilovers. Might make a difference. The cars at a mates so I will get some dimensions for you on sunday. Looking forward to hereing what you come up with on the brake front. Cheers, Douglas

I have seen clamps that you put on your springs and compress them together. This has the same effect as cutting a coil without actually doing so. Wouldnt use them myself though. Douglas

You are going to need adjustable end links reguardless of how you make the bar adjustable. I have seen people weld flat bar under the sway bar with holes drilled into it along the way. Looks like a cheep way to do it. You could also do as John says and cut the end of and use a pinch slider type arangement. Douglas

That just doesnt look right to me. Just get some lighter normal rotors. Think about it. If you made that rotor in a normal shape it would have a larger diameter and still weigh the same. You would get more brake torque as well. Douglas

S15.... Just a quick non related question. What size are the rims on your car at the moment? Douglas

Get the bigest truck v6 you can find and put some cams in it. Toyota 4.0 or a quad camer from one of the other co.s. Rear wheel drive with tranny already there and should be pretty tough. 100 hp per liter is pretty achievable these days for the road. A lot more if you really want to spin it. Douglas

I managed to do it on the rears of my 2+2. Havent tried the fronts. Douglas

I have been wanting to build somthing similar for a while. Bike engines are expensive here though so I have been having a look around and desided to use the drive train from and alfa 33 or sud. Could also use subaru but the alfa set up is much lighter. I would take the whole subframe out of the front and use it as a jig to make up the tube frame for a mide engined flat 4. You would just have to make up some front suspension. I would be useing this on the farm and for great blasts of speed up and down the local aluvial river bed so suspension is mandatory. You can pick up whole alfa suds here for $500 odd so would be a cheep project. Douglas

I used foam that I glued to the car then filed and sanded roughly to shape. I then put coats of gib stopping compound ( the stuff you use to smooth sheet rock walls) And sanded it to the final finish. You then have to seal it and paint it. I had to use water based paint becuase the solvent based stuff would eat the foam I used. Just make sure you wax the hell out of it before you start laminating. Douglas

Put the muffler as far away from the engine as possable. It will be quieter and lose less performance. Douglas