NotSuperBbutZ

the reason i posted this is because otherwise you have to make your own from scratch, and not everyone on here i know for a fact is talented enough to do it themselves, and they would end up being cheaper anyways.

ok lets shed some light on Raotaries, I did a total build up on a last generation rx-7 with my dad and have plenty of experience. 1.) The turbo boost phasing is mapped via an O2 sensor, and a MAP sensor, this causes 2 imediate problems, one, it's ineficient, two, if you add highflow exhaust and/or a high flow intake and intercooler, the computer reads this, and produces a boost spike as the secondary fuel injectors and turbo hits on a 4K RPM (a spike to full boost, 20 pounds!) and blows out the Apex seals (the sealing devices at the edges of the rotors, causing a need for a rebuild. 2.) The engines don't last long as a daily grinder, you almost never see a rotary motor over 100,000 miles, check out ebay, you'll see nmost are being sold around 60k - 100k because they are about to push out their apex seals. now they arent that hard to rebuild, but like any build, it's different in it's own way and requires some skill and attention to detail. 3.) Your tuning HAS HAS HAS to be right on the money or very close when you add performance enhancing devices to the car, if it's not it will pop to motor, and there arent a whole lot of places that specialize in rotary tuning because its quite complicated. 4.) and lastly, they are EXTREMELY vulnerable to heat, they wont just fade like a normal piston and crank motor, they will melt down, be ready, and expect to do a lot of research on what performance cooling devices are best for the motor (not even stock cuts it on an easy ride on days over 90). But they are like nothing else, all of them have a steady unbroken linear torque and hp curve that is really cool, and they are a lot of fun, but cost a lot of money in the end, and are a bitch to take care of, and forget your boost meter and tach as the most important gauges, your Temp meter is going to be the most impoortant! with all that in mind it might be a good idea to think long and hard about it. Tripple rotors with a larger single turbo are VERY capable of 500 hp and the BEST response on a moderate build so you are looking at an engine that sounds like and performs like a lemans motor if you got for it! sorry this is so long but had to put my 2 cents in

Just thought i would throw this out there, just found it, looks like it might work on a Z, anyone have any thoughts about if it would fit depth wise??? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.2326/qx/product.htm

take it from a body man, replace it with a new one. it is not worth the time and effort to make tho one you have thats so fu#&d up to straighten out. in the industry if its cracked, smashed or seriously dented, we just replace it. It doesnt matter, 16 or 60, she would get her a$$ f&*$%ng REAMED if that was my car! sorry to see such a beautiful vehicle raped like that, man.

Yeah i'm going to be buying a set of those RS-Wantanabes (not very cheap, got a quote for $2,260.00) here pretty quick myself, same size and everything, but i'm goin with gunmetal grey on the rims, that and a G-Nose, and my color is a Porsche solid petrol blue. But I do have to admit, Alex's build Is probly the closest to my dream Z as I have ever seen. Good job, definately one that's for the record books!

I'm lookin around for new rims for my 240Z and could use some help! if you guys could post some pics or sites on here of wheels that would fit a 72 240z that would be great, also, what is the lug pattern, im not sure 4X??? what. I am particular to a set i saw on Alex's car the RS-Wantanbe R-Type's, Alex, or anyone, who knows where to get those, please! post the site. And if you are reading this Alex, how much did you pay for them, im lookin at trying not to go over 3k. thanks for your time folks.

Hey everybody, im lookin at doing another SR swap into something...but im not sure yet lol, id like to have a whole fornt clip just to be safe, ahead of time before i figure out what i want to swap it into. If i could get some ideas where i could get a front clip (not just engine trans and wiring) s13 or s14, for a reasonable price, it would be much appreciated. plus shipping, i live near Seattle Washington and it seems like everyone that imports is at least 1000 miles away.

run a gt2871r and do some drivetrain and you will dominate those evos that beat you (maybe not in 1/8 but 1/4 for sure)

yeah but that thing doesnt get shi$t for fuel milage and im sure has to use spendy fuel, id rather have my sr20det 240z tuned to the beat of 400 ponies, be a classic, not have to worry about emissions, get good fuel milage, be trackable, streetable, AND commutable. and cheaper lol

well what do you think, you obviously have more experience in this area than i do lol, do the different brands have differing qualities? what difference does the thickness make?

is there a place that sells metal head gaskets???

i have a 22k budget and 3 years to finish it, so everything will be done right. If i make these enhancments will i have to spend more money on internals to make it handle the power, or can the sr20det handle that power on its stock guts???

i dont mind a few extra ponies, whats wrong with that? I just wasnt aware of how high an outout that turbo has, but its cool. I see alot of stuff on here about the diffs between hte gt2871r and the gt25r, what are yur guys opinions on either? and what kind of mileage do you guys get with a tuned up sr20det making say 360-400 ponies???

people can someone PLEASE wriote down the stuff you did to retrofit your HID kits, I dont know where to start! If some one already has done this upgrade, please write down a list of things in order that you did please.

The BIG PROBLEM with the F20c or 22c and any other engine that has a 10k redline, is hte torque is shitty, you gotta slip the clutch mass and launch HIGH lest you get taken by a minivan, if you want a good engine that'll still rev respetivly and get good power, do an sr20det

I'm currently in the process of putting an 2000 s15 sr20det engine and 6 speed in my Z, it's gonna be my commuter when im done. Can anyone tell me what fuel you run in your sr240's??? i'm getting a gt2871r and doing a few other things too but nothing over 250whp, is it ok to run just 93 outta the pump???

and as another point i bought my 240z so i wouldnt have to deal with emissions in my state so i could run no emissions devices, no cat, etc to pull everything i could out of my motor

I would go sr20 because it provides more ponies than stock motor, is much lighter, gets a consistent 25 mpg, can be placed easily behind the front cross member, makes for a better weight distribution, and the availability of parts is phenominal, but the I6 equivalent is DEFINATELY the RB25, the RB20 is like the under engineered commutor brother of the 26 and 25, so go with the 25 if you really wanna stay with an RB series engine.

I used a apexi fc on my 94 rx7 and i though it was fantastic, but its a lot of work if your not used to it, yes undofortunatley. Infact i'll be installing one when i do my 240z/sr20det hybrid no contest.

dude, i owuldnt even take that car for anything but the interior, id gut it, then cut it up and take it to the dump! that car is dangerous with all the rot, the structural integrity IS I promise, greatly compromised, even when you do repair it, because its so extensive.

Hey I'm ready to join the minority and put an sr20det in my 240z, i havnt really been able to find this, but id like to know how much it would generally cost for me to do the swap (how much i would have to fork out to have someone do it). and what all would i need for the swap, or would i just need to get a whole front clip. And if anyone ends up knowing, if there are any shops in washington state that i could get it done at that would be great too! thanks for your time.