nosebleedZ

Thank you for offering, but thats a little steep & not the exact thickness needed. MSA charges $60.00 & they mark them up a zillion percent, but at any rate, that's your cost.........anyone else?

I wanted to see if anyone has a set of 12 lash pads at .160 thickness for sale, trade, etc. Motorsport called & said they are backordered for 3-6 months and I just don't have that kind of time to wait. Please PM me if you have a set you can part with. Thanks so much.

Smokescreen, I have been trying to buy this very same kit for a year now with 3 "deals" falling through. What is AJUSA & how much did you pay? I will use this kit w/ some personal mods if I can ever buy one! Nice stance BTW, but I want mine a little more "raked". Thanks for any input you can give.

Fubar, that'd be cool! I really only need the items listed, I just wanted to check here before buying new again. Sicky, yes let me see some pics!

Is it the 8 hole drilled gear or a full swivel adjusting gear? Honestly, looking for a little cheaper for used, but may consider it....

Hey man! We'll have to get up with each other one day, being so close. No thanks on the head, I have a bundle of them & blocks. I just wanted to find these items for the "hush, hush" L-29ET motor I've got on the stand currently. I just couldn't believe the new prices for this stuff currently! Inflation sucks!

What a cryin' shame! Fiberglass should be used to save some weight...geez...even with the claimed power of "350", this thing would still be a terd at 9,000 pounds!

I want to buy the following performance parts at a reasonable price: 1) L6 adjustable cam gear, ie. HKS, Kameari, Nismo, Jun, etc. 2)L6 225mm aluminum light weight flywheel with bolts if available, ie. Fidanza, Nismo, Clutchnet, etc. 3)L6 single row harmonic dampner (race style) w/ or w/o performance bolt/ washer kit Thanks, & look forward to offers!

If you dont have one yet, I have an excellent one for $15 including shipping! PM me for Paypal details....

I have a set of 16 in chrome I'll sell for $30+ shipping. Great shape, but i wont separate.

Do the "hot" lash adjustment yet? Yep, rockers will transfer unless it's the 83 hydra-lifter head (P90A), but the cam they are broken into has to make the migration as well. Unfortunately, n/a cam specs are a little different than turbo for anti-reversion purposes, BUT will usually work well in most cases (see my sig specs). Worst case scenario may not be the reality, but if it makes the sound after getting into it & then letting off, it's probably a bad rod bearing. Bad main(s) bearings USUALLY knock all the time & get worse with load. A cracked ring land chunk(s) that moves " in & out" against the bore, but is held in place by the rings, will create extra clearance & therefore noise under load or warm up (but is usually accompanied by blue exhaust smoke, fouled plug, loss of power, etc). Try to systematically pull one plug wire at a time and listen for changes, or a clear up of the noise, to narrow it to the problemed cylinder(s), then inspect further.

OK, keep us posted.....

Is the motor down on power? If it is could be exhaust leak, carboned up combustion chambers & the ECU is dialing the timing back under load, etc. Is it sluggish?

No, it's not common, but does happen, it has to me....Did you inspect it yet?

IMO, the stock Z radiator is adequate for your setup, unless you are doing alot of stop-n-go city driving. Don't try to cure it with "Mechanic in a Bottle". Those are enhancement additives for higher demands such as racing, hot climates, or towing. Just as CamH said, start with the basics, like a flush & fill & SEARCH for the 4,000 or so overheating threads that are in the database here. Good luck!

Hey Iowa, if I was guessing, without hearing the car run, I would say you probably need to do a "cold", then a "hot" valve lash adjustment. This is covered in Chilton, Haynes, & Nissan manuals; & is easily done the first time in a few hours. All you need is a feeler guage w/ SAE & /or Metric values (based on preference), a new valve cover gasket, & a couple of box end wrenches (17 & 19 I think, don't quote me though). Almost every Z I've ever owned has done this. This is a good place to start, but there are 4 or 5 other possible causes. But worst case scenario, you have a properly adjusted valve train for $15, then you can move on to more "serious" diagnosis. Also, if the exhaust was really loud, & now it's quieter, it could just be the "click" of the injectors, but I doubt it. Good luck man & post your findings. You need to get this fixed before you install that intercooler this week...LOL!

I went to the junkyard closest to work today, for a couple of hours or so. These cars are 60- 90% together! Here's some of the stuff I spotted & the quantities(): (3) '03-'05 Infiniti G35 sedans autos, (1) '04 G35 coupe 6MT, (2)'89-'90 T-bird S/C, (4) '87-89-ish Volvo 740 turbos, (1) Lexus IS300 5 speed, (1) '05 Dodge SRT-10 pickup 6speed, (1) Isuzu NPR delivery truck w/T4 & I/C, (4) '93-97 Chevy Z-28's LT1 2 auto/ 2 6MT, (1) '99? Camaro Z-28 SS Hurst Ed., (3) '97-'00 BMW 3 series 2.5, 2.8, 3.0 M&A, (1) '06 Nissan 350Z 6MT, (1)'85? Chevy Corvette w/ crossfire EFI 350, (2) '99 C-5 vettes, LS1 autos, (1) '06 Mercedes E55 AMG supercharger, (4) '89-92 Nissan S13, 5MT's, (1) '92 Nissan S13 convertible, auto, (2) Nissan S14 5MT's, (6) Infiniti Q45 '95-99, (12) '03+ Nissan maximas autos/ 6MT's, (1) '86 Nissan Z31 Turbo, 5 speed, (2) '84 Z31 N/a, auto & 5MT, (2) Eagle Talon TSI Turbos AWD '90 & '92 5MT, '88 Chevy Sprint Turbo 5MT (3 banger & teeny intercooled turbo), (1) 86 Toyota Corolla AE86 (rough), (1) 82 S130 Turbo, auto, 2+2, (2) 79-80 S130 N/a 5MT, (1) 88 Ford Probe GT Turbo 5MT, (1) 96 Ford Cobra 32V 5MT, (1) '93 Z32 N/a 5MT, '91? Subaru SVX, (1) '91 Nissan Sentra SER SR20DE/ 5MT, (1) '94 Infiniti G20 sr20DE auto, (1) 93 Mazda RX7 Turbo 5MT, (11) Ford Mustang 5.0 86-93 5mt/ auto, (1) 85 Jaguar XJS V-12, & (3) Dodge 1 ton P/U Cummins Diesel w/ Holsets intact. All in all, some very sexy Hybrid material!

Sorry to hear you must be in the other 25%, dude. I reread your first post & have a few questions: 1)When the key is in "Start" position, do you have B+ at the ECU harness power pin from the FSM schematic? Unplug to verify, do not backprobe. 2)When you try cranking, have you installed a "noid" light on one of the injector plugs? It should blink if the engine is turned by the starter faster than 50rpm's, even if not running. 3)Have you installed a spark tester on the coil wire & a plug wire to verify spark & strength (color)? 4)Have you installed a pressure guage on the fuel line exiting the filter to verify over 28 psi while cranking? If the answers to these questions are yes after verification, you have a MECHANICAL problem. Check these out & get back to me, bud.

Anymore input?

Thanks JSM. Believe it or not I know where an 88 turbo is with the diff intact....not to get off topic.