nosebleedZ

How quick do you need one? I have one still in a running car that's getting a swap in 3 or 4 weeks. I'll take $225 plus ship & PayPal if you want it. It has new valves & springs & 280 cam installed & is very clean. This is MN-47 from 84 Maxima auto.

Anybody?

I would like to buy (new or used) two good 8" subwoofers for custom stereo install- Crutchfeild is too high, I'll just do without for $100/ each! Also, a crossover network for mid & high range component speakers is needed. Thanks......

Since I first bought my 280zx in '97, the blower/ vent pressure has always been dismal ! Well during the ground up show/ track car resto, I have tried several methods of making the blower system better. #1- deleted what was left of cancered out A/C system & removed the evaporator core & replumbed it w/ 4" flexible ducting (lessen restrictions) #2- with the dash removed, sealed every possible leak point w/ aluminum HVAC tape #3- made a $100 paper weight out of the crapola, double crooked falice, zx heater control valve & replaced it with a GM linear door lock actuator connected to the upper blend door with an 8 position multi travel switch- awesome mod! #4- rechecked & sniffed the factory vacuum diagrams to the climate control head unit from vac diaphrams, per FSM #5- changed the blower motor, resistor, & controller, harness, amplifier w/ new parts- not cheap!!!!!!!!!! #6- cleaned the system inlet of leaves, chestnuts, & bird terds from 30 years ago & replaced weatherstrip to the body #7- got so pissed off @ the output after this, I did the Big-Phil civic blower upgrade- worked w/ redrilling a mounting hole, but noisy as a cat getting smacked w/ a 2 X 4 above half speed, output still sucks...... Please, I pray to God, how can I get air in my sweaty &/or frozen nostrils from 18 inches away in these cars? I really don't have anyone's car to compare it to, since most zx's here in TN are rotten, I have everything the way I always dreamed on this zx project, except the HVAC. Guys, help me avoid Vintage Air! My ego & wallet really can't take it.....

Hey guys, Merry Christmas! I want to buy either new or used L28 forged pistons for a Christmas present & have had little luck finding under $650. I will take flat tops, dished, 86mm, 86.5mm, or 87mm. NO DOMED OFFERS PLEASE! Need to include pins, locks, or bushings as well as rings on new pistons. You can get me the sizes of used pistons so I can purchase new rings separately. I have a set of perfect circle rings (chrome) that will fit forged pistons with stock dimension ring lands if the pistons are the same as stock turbo L28ET. Thanks in advance for your attention & help.....

Get a cheap micrometer & check the rear rotor thickness versus the FSM, Haynes, etc. If you had them turned at a parts store, they probably cut them under minimum thickness which would negate the pad to rotor engagement. Seriously, some parts stores give a 5 minute brake lathe course to most employees...LOL.

You need a 1" pipe plug from a hardware store to plug where the BOV is mounted in the intake. My advice is to remove it & plug it....it's pretty useless except in a "stock" level overboost situation (8-9 psi). Then you will need a compressor bypass valve mounted as close to throttle body as possible to blow off excess pressure during shifting & send it to the inlet of the turbo via the hose/ pipe between the AFM & compressor inlet...very easy! If you run a BOV on a car w/ an AFM, it will stutter from a rich condition shorly after shifting gears...not good. So, do some searching on the differences in plumbing, performance, & placement of the bypass valve. You can pick tthese up on E-bay or at a salvage yard for $20 or less from MANY oem turbo cars or buy an adjustable to tailor to your level. In short: Blow Off Valve for MAP EFI, Compressor Bypass Valve for MAF or AFM cars. Hope this helps!

Thanks turbo, that's what I needed, straight answer..LOL.

It's not a big deal for me to have a d-shaft made, I just wondered if there is a proven bolt in solution on the zx. If there was, could use on other builds & it would save me some time since I have a friend that owns a large junkyard full of various Nissan products. Also, Jeffer949 is correct, S13 & S14 trannies have the same input & output splines & yokes as 70-83 Z trannies, just a later, much stronger, longer iteration. I cant believe noone has done this swap in an S130 though?

Anyone on here done this swap in a zx? Instead of modding the zx shaft, I can buy the early 240z shaft w/ replaceable joints for $50. It is 2" shorter. I'd rather go this route & purchase this shaft prior to the test fit if anyone has done it before. The best part is with this shaft I can use the solid u-joints. Anyone?

Since there is 2.5 inches of in & out play on the stock zx driveshaft, can it be used without shortening with 240sx tranny (71C)? The sx tranny is 1.8" longer than the zx tranny (71B). And yes, I've searched, all I can find is S30 info on the subject. Thanks!

Thank for the reply, but I was looking for a junkyard transmission swap for the car. Any advice on swaps for S130, with details, with 400+ at the wheels?

I have went a few steps further on power w/my s130Z (L28ET w/ N/A flywheel) & grenaded my 71B 5-speed tranny while street tuning for dyno trip in November. My car is making insane power for a street car, & I have to have a reliable tranny retrofit to put it all down on the dyno, & for a feature on my car in a magazine in early 2010 (needs to be able to move..LOL). I searched the drivetrain forum for an hour or so, & saw several tranny options (KA/ Z32/ etc.),but they seem unclear in a straight swap scenario for an S130. They were on the right track, but never got to the point on output shaft yoke / driveshaft requirements for the S130, what definitively is need for the KA/ Z32/ T-56 swap (bell housing adapting, master & slave cylinder, etc.), if using a KA-why change input shaft bearing vs. installing tranny @ an angle w/ shifter modded...you guys get the picture. I'm sure my HybridZ bretheren will come through for me. Oh, car is 2 seater, 3.7 R200 diff, 225mm centerforce 2 with cryo'ed stock flywheel (8 7/8"). If you guys need more info on the car, please let me know. Help me put it to the ground!

IMO, Toluene is a good fuel additive if your car is boosted, but it takes more than you'd think to get at a useable increase in detonation resistance. Also the price of it has increased greatly over the past few years (used to be 3.99/ gallon @ Sherwin Williams). On my car, I experienced ping pretty bad at 13 psi on a 95* summer day with 93 octane. It drove me nuts to have to retard the timing & lower boost to be able to drive around in that ambient temperature without the power I had been used to on cooler days. I found a website that explained the mixtures needed to achieve octane increases but I didn't save the link. Essentially the formula is as follows: (gallons of gas x octane of gas) + (gallons of toluene x 114[octane of toluene]) / total number of gallons. In my car, I mix a 30% ratio & can now run 18psi on hot days. For example, I use 12 gallons of 93 octane gas and 6 gallons of toluene (18 gallons total). Here is how you'd figure my total octane: 12 x 93 = (1116) + 6 x 114 = (684) or 1800 / 18 gallons = 100 octane. The car ran great & runs absolutely awesome on cold winter days. All the guys here make good points about Aviation fuel (ie. lead content, slower flaming) so I wouldn't advise using it. But the penny pinching aspect of toluene (8.00/ gallon) is very good. For 12 gallons of 93 & 6 gallons of toluene I currently pay $85 for a tank. Versus $144 for 100 octane race gas. The biggest drawback is carrying a funnel to the gas station & it taking 15-20 minutes to fill up, LOL! Talk about pissed off rednecks!

Thank you BlueovalZ, that was one of the funniest threads of all time! I bet you could sell "Steve" muffler bearings & an implosion prevention valve for his new 'Vette motor. I wonder if he'll use two Tornados in line with his exhaust coolers? God, this was priceless!

Is that the least you will take for the SDS? I would really consider it if the price was a little lower.

Cygnus, I dont know if you are running a new turbo that is larger than before your upgrades, but I had a similar noise once when I changed to a larger turbo. The compressor housing was only a 1/32 of an inch away from the exhaust manifold when mounted. I let it run as is and it would squeak when I drove it. Turns out the cast iron manifold expanded enough when warm to just barely rub the compressor housing causing the "tweety bird effect". A 3/8" stainless turbine housing spacer cured it. When I removed everything the to inspect what the noise was, the right side of the compressor housing was polished to a near chrome finish from the rubbing. Just a stab.....

Thanks for the rebut Cygnus, MS is cheap ($250...holy s@#t!), and it seems to work well. But like Ron said the programming & troubleshooting are pretty unsettling as I've seen on this site. SDS gets the nod here I think. The only thing is SDS is like $1,500 out the door....Ouch! Delimnas, delimnas........?

Bryan, With the existing setup you have, you could angle the I/C out & away from the radiator about 2 inches, and mount a thin guage aluminum shield over the gap, then attach w/ self -tap screws. This would require longer brackets (Home Depot-1.99 each) at the top. To get the 3" pipe down & out of the way, I had to use silicone straight couplers at the I/C inlet & outlet & 90* aluminum tubes going to turbo & T/B. You can then push the 90 pipes downward an inch or so to clamp to the coupler. Think of it as sticking your finger inside a beer bottle neck & tilting it down.

Oh, sorry. I've never had the exhaust liner heads perform any worse than the P90. They actually seem like spool is a little better at times. Then comes the argument of exhaust velocity or exhaust volume. They really are a nightmare to try to cut out though. I will look a little harder into the SDS system, what is your price for the one w/o ignition control?

Ron, I'm running the Cometic head gasket, I think it's 1.5 mm or so. About 2 years ago I did the calculations on a L Engine table I believe. I think it was a little over 9:1. The liners should be fine, the F54 is pretty rigid in my experiences. The main reason I used the MN47 was for the kidney bean shaped chambers. I have been able to run more advance with the '84 model heads versus the N47, P90 etc. So the SDS is pretty decent , Huh?

Bryan, Are you using 2.5" ? 3" pipe? Aluminum or silicone 90* elbow?

Guys, I read the sticky on possible EMS's for my Z. Afshin made a lot of sense when he & I were discussing ditching the twitchy Datsun EFI & SDS additional injecion system last week. My problem is that I don't want to get a BS in computer concepts to program my car above 400 hp. I know opinions are like belly buttons (everybody's got one), but what EMS is easist to install (without purchasing 15 GM sensors), program (without posting here 1,400 times to get it running on 2 cylinders w/ black smoke:rolleyesg), & be a good bang for the buck (not more than the current Kelly Blue Book for a Hyundai)? I know this is asking alot...but throw me a fastball. Most mods are on my sig. Thanks in advance.

Afshin & Clifton- The ignition was OK, the input signal for MSD box & N/A ECU is on the negative coil lead. I took the dizzy of and made it turn by hand & the noid light on the injector harness pulsed. But I tried a 4th ECU & it ran better unbelieveably last night. It still was a little lean off boost, but ran smooth and very, very strong. When I had it sitting @ idle it all of the sudden dies-WTF? So I hooked up the meter as CLifton had suggested, & drove the car about 3 miles. Sure enough there was a voltage drop when the car went lean from 1000 to 1500 from AFM. The wiper on the AFM was ever so slightly bent, so I straightened it a little. Improved the cars performance in that range greatly. But I thought to myself "why did the other AFM act the same way?" After a closer inspection the wiper on AFM #2 was bent in almost the exact same spot!?! So after this, I test drove the car again, it was pretty dark outside. I tried to pull out of the driveway & the motor shuts off! I could only restart the car with all the lights off. Checked the in car voltmeter & it said the alternator was charging at 14 volts. Pulled it into the garage & checked the battery voltage with the motor off- 10 volts. The battery had become discharged. Charged the battery overnight & drove it this morning-WOW! The importance of battery voltage.....the car hauls the mail now! I think I had several bugs causing the problem, but I appreciate you guys as well as the others that posted (Warren, Rags, etc.) giving me ideas. I have not posted much here before, even though I have been a member for over a year, but I will definitely post more. The Hybrid members rock!

It happens at a steady throttle state, like cruising -to a lesser degree, & really hiccups bad when you stab the throttle. After 2500 it pulls easily to redline, although a little lean still at WOT (dances between 14 & 13:1).