dsommer

What headers are those? They look really tight to the engine. Sandersons? David

Grumpyvette, Is there a grind in your library (Crane or other brand) similar to the hydraulic roller P/N 109841 for a SOLID ROLLER that will make the 417hp/445 or close to those numbers? I’m stuck with the RPM intake and roller lifters and want low speed driveability. I’m just trying to figure out what cam will give me the best all around performance. I don’t have to go with a Comp Cam, any solid roller is fine with me. Again thanks for your help on this. David

Grumpy, Can you run this for me? I'm kind of stuck with a solid roller because I already have the lifters. This is Comp Cams P/N 12-770-8 Gross Valve Lift 0.564 0.57 Duration At 0.015 Tappet Lift 274 280 Valve Timing At 0.015 Open Close Intake 31 63 Exhaust 74 26 These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL Intake Exhaust Duration At 0.05 236 242 Lobe Lift 0.376 0.38 Lobe Separation 110 Thanks again for your time. David

So what HP/Torque am I looking at? Maybe I should go with a little bit more duration cam? What I'm looking for is at least 420 HP, the reason that is my base line is the Edelbrock power package claims those numbers and I could get out cheaper going with a std hydraulic cam as opposed to a solid roller ds

My biggest concern is the camshaft. I don't want this to be a super lumpy unstreetable set up with no vacuum for the brakes (been down that road before) My planned set up is a 350ci chevy 4 bolt mains Edelbrock Performer RPM intake Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with stronger springs for roller application, roller rocker arms 1.5 ratio Hyperutectic pistons 10:1 compression 30 over. Eagle bushed rods 73 Datsun 240Z (approx weigh 2500 lbs.) and will be equipped with either a Borg Warner T-5 or T-56 transmission Rear end gear ratio 3.90 CAM SPECS: Competition Cams P/N 12-769-8 Intake Exhaust Valve Adjustment 0.016 0.018 Gross Valve Lift 0.552 0.564 Duration At 0.015 Tappet Lift 268 274 Valve Timing At 0.015 Open Close Intake 28 60 Exhaust 71 23 These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL Intake Exhaust Duration At 0.05 230 236 Lobe Lift 0.368 0.376 Lobe Separation 110 Thanks ya'll David

Mike C Can you tell me more about your cam AR 280 who is the manufacturer of the cam also what is the operational range of the cam. Where can they be purchased? Also what heads are you running the problem I’m running into is finding a set of heads that will accommodate the high lift of a solid roller. I was looking at Edelbrock RPM’s but they would need the springs changed out to run a Comp Cams p/n 12-769-8. Would you recommend a smaller cam for street use? Any way if there is a site out there where I could research the cam AR 280 it would be appreciated. ds

82racecar, Can you post a pic of your car for us somewhere? I really would like to see it, along with the mods you have done. ds

Aw shoot Kevin you beat me to it.. 82racecar, Well I’m sure it’s a tough decision for you, 69 Camaro vs Datsun 2xxZ. I kind of lean toward Corvettes and Camaros at times too but then I see one going down the road and think, there goes another one… That’s what keeps my fire burning, to drive something down the road and not see another one at the next stop light. Trouble well I’ve NEVER built a car that wasn’t. Bend your frame? Unknown here on my end. Cheap tranny? Never seen one!!! (not one that will hold up behind a 500 600+ hp engine) Inspection, well there are some states where a 73 or older car is exempt from smog. Fabrication? If you own the JTR manual you know that this is not just a drop in exchange for a Datsun engine. If you have ever built or followed a custom hot rod build up then you may not have the stomach, the wallet or the patience for a custom Z car build up. You will hit roadblocks in the process, and an estimated time of completion is just a date in the future on the Snap-on tool calendar that you have yet to receive. I have been a member of this board since Feb of 2000. I have been lurking in the shadows of members like: pparaska mikelly drax240 and Andrew Baley (apologies if I spelled your names wrong) reading their posts, checking out their websites and doing plenty of research As I begin to embark on my build I go forth with knowledge of what works, what doesn’t and what can be made to work if you ask the right question to the right people (HybidZ board topics) 82racecar if you don’t build it don’t feel bad, everybody wants to go fast. I’ts just a matter of what you feel comfortable building and how long you’re will to take to build it. To me it sounds like you want it all right now,(as I do too!!!) spend as little a possible go as fast as possible and still have $$$ for food. The American dream. Good luck on your endeavor, what ever it may be, but always be weary, weary of a Z!!! ds

Sounds like a plan!!! Will you be selling your 350? I'd be interested if you're willing to ship. Contact me with the specs at dsommer@mortonsalt.com LMK. ds

bbbowtie is probably on the money on this one. Rebuild the sucker or get a new one. Many of my friends have had great success running the Edelbrock carbs. Installing them is pretty straight forward and they come jetted pretty close for many applications. If I were you I would check the fuel pressure first if its over 8psi it needs to be regulated down. A new carb is an investment but starting with something news is always a benefit. Carbs run about $250 to $350 depending on electric choke and CFM rating. Good luck and I would sugguest installing it your self that way you understand how it works. Man when I was 16 I didnn't know squat about cars but I did know I wanted mine to go faster so after lots of busted knuckels, launched objects (my dad still razzes me about the sledge hammer) and cussing, I think I'll start building my Z. I'm 16 years OLDER now and hope I have the patience for this, we'll zee. david

Ross C I've never done a port and polish on heads before but I went and bought an air compressor and a grinder. I'm ordering a "kit" from Standard Abrasives through Summit and will go to work. I've read up on the job and it seems like it's not too bad just takes some time 10 to 12 hours is what SA advertises here is the address to if you would like to check it out. www.sa-motorsports.com Down load the DIY head porting guide and print it out read it and jump on in. It has lots of pictures and a video is even offered. Summit has the best price on the kit that I have found so far $38-40 I think is what I found there. Good luck, ds

Here's what I found. 87 Corvette heads casting #14101128 center bolt, aluminum. The Edelbrock performer RPM intake bolts right up not having to angle any thing or bore out holes on the intake. I'm happy, now I can get started on the port and polish job on them, and the suspension rebuild and the rearend swap and the ... ds

I'm going to try to put this one to rest. I've got a set of 87 Corvette alum. heads and an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. Hopefully tonight (or some time this week) I will bolt the intake to the heads and see what lines up and what does't. I've heard that the center intake bolt is different somehow. So I'll post later on my findings. Just wish I had the entire engine in the car. On a lighter note I just picked up a new set of roller (mech) lifters on e-bay for $138.50 not too bad IMO. Piece by piece I'll get it together someday... ds

Just got off the phone w/Courtesy ball joint are too high but the tie rod assy's aren't too bad at $104.05 + shipping. I don't think we have a Moog dealer up here in Hillbilly Land though. (NW Arkansas)

The first step I'm taking on the V-8 trail is to upgrade the suspension. I'm looking for the best place to get tie rod assy (L&R) and ball joints. The best price I have found so far is $118.95ea for tie rod assy's from AZ Z-car. Any better deals out there? Thanks, ds

S/N data avaliable here for S/B and B/B chevy. They even have a for sale board, thats where I got my heads. ds http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

When pulling main bolts/head bolt on a high mile engine the smell of the old oil will run you out of the garage, I belive this is due to the acidity of the oil,(I'm not a chemist) really nasty stuff. As far as the crank goes it may have to be turned, the machine shop should (and probably will) mic it first to determine the extent of damage, as far as bearings you're going to replace them anyway. The scarring on the surfaces is probably due to low oil pressure. I'm sure you wont have this problem after the rebuild. Good luck. ds

I just purchased a 4 bolt engine (long block) for $125. The block and crank are virgin and it turns. If you really want the one you're looking at offer him $50 because it is a questionable part. Worst case is you have a boat anchor, best case you got a deal. Most people won't let us car guys start dismantling their engines before we buy them. I can understand why too. BECAUSE WE KNOW WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR BENT, BROKEN, CHIPPED, SCUFFED, BURNT AND VENTILATED!!!!!!! Good luck.

Guages, ah yessss. The oil leaks, the ammonia or whatever it is they put in temp guages can be a real pain. But from my encounters I'll stick with mech guages the readings are more accurate and I've lost more than one engine to a faulty electric guage. Mech guages give piece of mind when installed correctly (away from headders!!!)

Still buggin' I wanna see it too!!!

Thanks, I read this old post from Jeff Davis from IZCC and this is exactly how I did it no sweat. ...removing those four 12mm nuts from the rear drive shat is probably the single most time consuming portion of a trany swap, it's really not that big of a deal. This may not be the best way to do it, but I've found the easiest way for me is to have the rear on stands with the wheels free to spin and the trany in neutral. I usually have the front end up on ramps for trany clearance when I'm doing this. Anyway , I stick the opposite end of my cheap 12mm box wrench (the enclosed circle end) on the nut, then spin the drive shaft with my hands to knock the nut loose as the wrench wacks against the floor of the unibody. I tighten them the same way. BTW, I'm talking a '77 280 here. -jeff

The new guy here. How do you go about removing the original drive shaft from the rear of the car? (I'm getting ready to pull the engine next week) No way a typical wrench can fit in that tight of a space or am I missing something? Also on my car there is a (Splash guard???) on the passenger rear (A arm? below the drive axle) but there is not one on the drivers side whats up with this? Any help would be greatly apperciated.