dsommer

Ok question... With the adaptors what wheel can you run? I'm thinking any wheel that would fit a honda civic? If so the selection is infinite. David

Try shox.com, ask for a quote on line and they will send pricing for a complete package. Each piece broken out seperatly. Remember if running lowering springs run a decent strut (NOT KYB's) I recomend Tokico's. David

Just the engine I need for my BOAT!!! David

Thanks SleeperZ, That's the answer I was looking for. I'm running the 1" lower MS springs and going with the new Tokicos (not Ilumas sp?). I'm currently running 205/50/15's Kumho's (sp) all the way around on 6" rims. The car takes corners like it on rails. But you know we can never leave things alone... I've got the entire front end out from under the car, replacing EVERY wear part. Good thing too, the ball joints were GONE along with the tie rod ends!!! I guess that explains the shimmy at 70+ MPH The KYB inserts are shot too. So now I need to get the front strut spacers off e-bay and start putting er back together. Thanks a bunch guys!!! David

Ok I located the bearings in the VB catalog diagram. I was confused because I never heard of these being mentioned before. But of course it makes sense to me now because the strut attaches to the car and has to rotate on something so it must be a bearing. Does anybody run strut spacers do they help on the street? Thanks, David

Nemeziz, What is your hood? How big is the cowl? Looks like 3" to me and super sweet. Where did you get it and how about a part number. Thanks ds

TZ, That's my thought too but why would the knuckle head (KH) prior owner put them in there? I think this would acutally raise the front end of the car off the suspension. KH also installed KYB'S all the way around which MS does not recommend with their springs (I'm guessing PO KH was cheap here). I still would like to know the measurement of a stock strut housing though. On a lighter note the inliner is out, front suspension is being rebuilt, the X member is out (just a few minutes ago and soaking in a film of EZ Off) and I'm rolling on, slowly, with the conversion. David

I took apart the front suspension and found 2 wheel type bearings above my strut tower caps. I have a few questions here. 1. Do stock height strut housings have ANY welding on them near the top? It appears that I have a good size weld here on mine. 2. What is the stock height of a strut tower tube for a 240Z? I purchased new Tokico struts (stock size) for the car and they drop right in the strut tube, as they are supposed to. The car has MS lowering springs too. So what gives? Anybody? Thanks, David

Heck, I'd be happy if NAPA just supplied me with the correct part. Usually their service and parts are right on, but something happened this time around. I called them earlier and they gave me the same PN that is on the box (inner tie rod) I have (which is the wrong part) so I'm stopping by there on my way home to try to get it straightened out. David

You may have to wail on it with a dead blow hammer or something else pretty stout. They do not have to be pressed out. Just bang on them in a circular pattern and they will seperate. Trust me they will. This was demonstrated to me by a brake mechanic and I felt really silly when he seperated the hub from the rotor with just 4 blows of a hammer. David

Mike (shock96)I was just reading your post about the inner and outer tie rod ends from NAPA could you give me the part numbers off these? I thought I had the correct parts until I opened the boxes last night and found out differently. Thanks, David

I’m about to start the front suspension rebuild and have some questions. What normal wear and tear parts need to be replaced? So far I have in my possession: Poly bushing kit, and two complete tie rod assemblys. I know my steering boot is torn and will have to be replaced (does anybody have a alternative for getting this part or a similar one?(NOT MS or VB their prices and treatment of some of our members forces me to seek other outlets for parts and use them ONLY as a last resort). I’m guessing that the ball joints need to be replaced, how do you know if they are bad? Loose? (They may have been replaced in the past but I want to know what I have under the car and the car is INOP at this time). I also ordered replacement struts from Shox.com this morning (saved $$$ over MS) So what other parts need to be replaced? Thanks, David

Try these folks: http://www.radiatorexpress.com/default.asp?ref_source=EbayMe ds

How do you shift it??? Too much for me. ds

Since I'm doing seats right now I can get the dimentions (sp) for the original 240's and my new seats ala 91 (I think) Acura. The Acura seats do ride high. Being 6'2" my head rubs the celing just a little bit but the seats have great support. ds

Almost seems to me the ole boy's throttle got stuck Still one helluva burn out Considering my car still won't go under it's own power ds

A bit off the topic but talk about ruining someone's day (Lone I like the Uncle Bens trick BTW ) put a good size chunk of Limburger cheese on the exhaust manifold and sheeeezzzzz the smell will just creep into the passenger compartment not going away for a while. Makes me wanna Guten nacht David

I second what Phantom said. Parts will add up quickly. I just dropped another $500 on my car the other day and I haven't even pulled the inline 6 yet. I will soon. I've got all my major parts together except the JTR kit, headers, and 2 new front struts. If I were you I would look for a complete car, and learn from there. If it's not set up the way you like or does'nt run the way you want it to fix it. I feel this would be the most effective method for learning how to work on cars. That is basically how I did it. Just be patient 5K is a good deal of cash and I'm sure a car will come along eventually. You may have to travel out of town to get it but take your time, check it out ask questions here and you'll do fine. OR Jump in the deep end and wind up selling the project before it's complete. Tossing your 5+K away to the low bidder. I failed to ask, do you have tools or access to them? You'll need quite a few. That is one reason my build has taken so long, collecting tool to do the job right. Which ever you decide have fun with it and good luck. David

Deathwish!!!!!! ds

Congrats!!! I know its been a long time waiting on your first drive. The car looks GREAT!!! Way to go!!!! David

Way to go!!! Now I've GOT to get on the ball and pull my inliner and rebuild the front suspension bla bla bla.. and drop that roller engine IN!!! ds

Sorry, this site is temporarily unavailable! ds

Is that a hubcap from an earlier model F-150 stuck in his hood? ds

Try Easy Off that'll clean it up ds

Go for it!!! Turbos are coooool Now sell me your JTR kit if you're serious. David dsommer@mortonsalt.com