dsommer

Well there lies the problem/question. Right now the interior is gutted AND the inliner is still in the car. All the wires have been disconnected, old radiator out but I'm still chasing a few little rust holes on the floor pans. In other words its going to take a while. Once it arrives I can drop in in to see if it fits but as far as cooling goes, I don't know. David

DEAL!!! Considering I have about 3k+ in my engine alone. Congrats. The R200 swap has been documented and serveral of the questions have already been answered so use the search. I just did the R200 on mine and it went with out a hitch just be sure to get ALL of the rearend parts from the doner car INCLUDING the driveshaft. David

I checked the size and pretty sure it's going to work... The core is 16 3/4" x 20 3/4". It has metal tanks, not plastic. The overall size is 24 1/4" x 18 1/4". Here's the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1831434282&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1023058852&indexURL=0&rd=1 and they only are charging me $11 to ship it. If it doesn't work less than $50 ain't bad David

I did the fire route on mine and it worked like a champ. After the old bushing was out a got a small cupped wire brush (the kind you put on an electric drill) and ran it inside the sleeve where the new bushing goes. It cleaned it up perfectly (no left over rubber junk) David

A really neat cleaner I've been using is Marine Clean by POR 15. It cuts grease quite well. If your headders are the "rough" type finish (aluma coat?) I would recomend Eagle one mag wheel cleaner. Of course Easy Off could be tested on a small area too. David

How much fluid does an R-200 hold? I put in a quart of synthetic (sp?) rear end gear lube. But first I removed the rear cover and hosed out the inners with a few cans of brake cleaner (I love that stuff ) I inspected the gear teeth and cogs (spider gears) and they looked a helluva lot better than Bubba's mother inlaws . I can live with the whine for a little bit, like until it grenades on me . The new improved rubber isolated fuel pump idea didn’t work man that thing is shaking harder than a politicians hand at election time. I guess I need either a new fuel pump or a better bracket design. I backspaced it from the original location by about 2 1/2" with some stout pipe (small diameter). I had to do this because the moustache bar was in the way after the R-200 swap. It looked like a pretty good little fab job to me any way its solid, clears the moustache bar and the line route correctly. This evening I drained and removed the radiator and stared disconnecting wires etc. from the inliner, won’t be long now and I’ll have er outta there. David

The fuel pump is an AG (?) unit I got off e-bay brand new for like $20-25 bucks. The noise will be cut down once I rubber isolate it (tonight). The toss up on the mounting kit is due to the angle plug headders bumping the steering shaft AND the HEI unit. The way I figure with the HEI you have to move the engine a bit forward, with that comes the clearance problem of the headder and the steering shaft. MSA kit seems that it sits a bit higher giving more clearance to the steering shaft/ headder issue BUT will a 400hp engine not start to tear the tranny tunnel over time? Jury STILL OUT.... David

Well I got the Z off the jack stand this PM for a drive around the block. I had to cut the exhaust so I'm running straight hedder with about 36" of open pipe LOUD by my standards (and the neighbors too ugly looks) The R200 swap went well BUT I've got a whine from the rear end. It may be the old 280 drive shaft I'm using (bad j-joints???) or drive shaft out of phase? I'm not too worried about it at this point seeing how the car is about to lose the inline 6 and let the V-8 transpalant begin . What do ya'll think??? Also on a side note, when installing an aftermarket fuel pump be sure to isolate from the chassis with some rubber or other means, mine sounds like a machine gun going off behind me (I mounted it solid). Totally unbearable/unacceptable espically after installing over a hundred dollars worth of sound deadening in the rear (brown bread). I did quiet things down a bit though. Man I cant wait to hear the rumble of a V-8 under the hood, now if I could just make up my mind between the JTR mounts or the MSA ones David

Lone, you crack me up man!!! David

Or try Air Craft remover or even cheaper, and my new favorite EASY OFF OVEN CLEANER!!! It's great for removing grease and grime from all sorts of parts. I coated my R-200 with it and scrubbed it with a stiff brush and it came out looking great, ready for paint. Also you might want to try some of the POR-15 super high heat coatings, POR-15 clims like 1400 degrees on this stuff I'm interested on how well it really holds up. I know their regular coatings are great and I continue to use them anytime I find rust on my "project". David

Yer right, sano= neat and clean. My guess it comes from the word sanitary. eg you can eat off of it. Kinda like having a greasy cheeseburger sittin on your air filter housing and you would still consider eating it (5 second rule may apply ) ds

I too agree since I've got mine gutted right now, doing the "brown bread" install. Since I gutted it I've got the rear of the car complete and will start on the forward compartment this week. David

Hehe, damn good read Really enjoyed the part about the 19yo chick getting SLAMED back in the seat, and the bet haha. ds

Jumbo, I like the set up of your interior. What brand roll bar is that in there? If it's the MSA or VB how did it mount up? I know they are bolt in bars how difficutlt was the install? Also do those bars just mount to the rear shelf or to the floor behind the drivers and pass. seat? Also what strut tower bars are you running? Thanks, David

Tanks T Zee ds

I’m concerned with the additional stress/twisting of the body by adding the 350. I don’t, overtime want to start finding stress cracks in the body of the car. The reason I am considering the tubing under the seat is because the material (seat supports) appears to be of thin gauge and doesn’t offer a great deal of lateral support. PLUS I have some rust in these areas under the seat supports (which I didn’t mention before sorry) that is repairable (small holes but still good metal) POR-15 patch repair will fix it. I think I’ll give it a shot because it won’t hurt a thing having some extra supports in there. Thanks for the info on the roll bar and strut supports. I’ll probably run them all because I’m trying to build a complete “system” all at once, not just drop in the 350 and run it and gun it. Thanks Mark Any other ideas out there? David

Can somebody post the Griffin part number (from Summit) for the radiator that fits with the JTR rad bracket? Thanks, David

Would this help with stiffening things up? I am considering running some 1"X 2" square tubing inside the car. Under the seats, behind the front seat bracket from the outter frame support (Below the door) to the tranny tunnel (attach the tubing to a steel plate to the tranny tunnel) All welded in. Would this help stiffening the cahssis, or just be a welding lesson for me. Also do strut tower bars help (front and rear) to help stiffen? What about an one of those SCCA rollbars VB sells (anybody out there running one?) I need to know before I start putting the interior back in. As always thanks for your help. David

Congrats !!! Now, after driving through a "cool" desert tell us all.. HOW FAST DID YOU GET IT GOING???? Don't be shy, throw the big number out there. I know you HAD to put your foot in it a little bit. Keep the shiny side UP!!! David

JT1, Sounds like we’re running the same combo (very close any way) I’ve got the exact same cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 750 Edelbrock carb, Hyperutectic coated skirt pistons.030 over, Eagle rods, Trick Flow 23 deg. Heads. I’m in the process of gutting the interior and getting things under way right now for the build. The questions I have for you are the Trick Flows you’re running an angle plug or straight? What tranny are you running (I’ll be running a T-5) Can I see some up close pics of the header and steering clearance? Thanks a bunch!!! David

I saw that last week, what an arse to trash a neighborhood like that David

Or use POR-15 to coat the parts. I just got done using some on my strut tubes and other misc parts on my car and I love the stuff. I'm ordering a quart or two later today!!! David

Special Prices on products for your 70-78 Nissan 240Z-280Z ----------------------------------------------------------------- Struts/shocks: Koni's are $520.80 Tokico's are $239.00 Tokico Illumina's (externally adjustable) $459.00 KYB shocks $169.00 Sets of 4 Suspension Techniques sway bar kit F&R - $229.00 Addco sway bars are $129.00 each Both of these come with urethane bushings. Ground Control Coil Over Kit- $399.00 includes Eibach ERS springs, no struts. 0 to 2.5" lowering Strut Brace -N/A Springs: Eibach Pro-kit $209.00 (1970-1973) lowers 1" Suspension Techniques $169.00 ( lowers 1") Tokico $169.00 (lowers 1") Energy Suspension complete urethane bushing kit- $189.00 Powerslot Rotors $69.95 each front , and no rears Carbon Metallic Brake Pads- $49.95 per axle.

So how much oil will fit in there? I'm thinking not too much, maybe an ounce or two?? ds

T Zee, Would you consider making tranny mounts for others? At what cost? Comparable price to JTR or MSA or within reason? If so I would be interested. I’m not a fabricator (wish I was) but I do see the short comings of both kits JTR being totally unadjustable MSA being a flimsy design. David