dsommer

Somebody has a little time on their hands, wish I did David

Russ, Mine is a 73 "the last year of the 240Z" is what the purists' websites say anyway. It too is still an inliner and it runs out great. Yeah I hate to modify it because it's a good running/looking setup with chrome valve cover modded 72 SU's the prior owner painted the block blue (looks nice) added a MS head, headder w/wrap, Crane XR3000 ignition, I added SS hose cover kit, electric fan and generally cleaned things up. But the real reason I bought my Z was to do the conversion. The PO also added MS springs and sway bars and replaced some of the bushings in the front, so this was a good candidate for a swap. I probably paid too much for it ($4000) but his starting price was $5500 (way too much) . I know this car would be a good candidate for restoration but I had a plan in mind when I bought it and that was to convert it to a V-8. If you are having serious doubts about doing the swap because the car (72) is more of a classic then go look for another car and save this one to be restored to original condition. Yeah they were nice when shiny and new and and are a true sports car for the poor man. (me) Other wise yank the 6 and make room for the 8, follow your gut on this one I'm sure you will make the right decision and good luck!!! David

Please, please, please use the search function. There is a lot of info there and many of your questions have probably been answered already. I use it quite often. . Good luck on the build it can be done economically if your patient and have some skill with cars. Go for it!!! David

I called this morning and found out that they did in fact send the wrong rings. They sent a ductile iron top ring and not a molly ring. He said the correct rings would ship out today. Some things just really p me off ds

Here is my question: I purchased a set of Sealed Power rings for my build (chromoly), two of the top compression rings had imperfections so I sent them back. Today I finally received the replacement rings and upon inspection I noticed that they do not match what I currently have. The original set of rings I have, the outside (cylinder contact area) of the ring is shiny and the ring has no taper on the inside (piston contact area) it is just a square type ring (if that makes sense). The rings they sent are solid black on the outside (cylinder contact area) and have a taper on the inside (piston contact area). Looking at the instructions that came with the rings the top compression ring should have a taper on the top inside their web site shows the same thing so what’s up with the original set that I received with no taper? I’m so f*ckin confused here. Any help? Thanks, David

Hydra, If your're looking to sell the JTR kit for some fast cash shoot me a price and I'll take it. dsommer@mortonsalt.com David

Dude that totally SUX. Which Comp are/were you running? Was that the Hyd roller? I just got my mech roller from them (had to be drop shiped) and was wondering if you or anybody else out there has heard of any problems with those. Also thanks for posting the pics of the U-joint for the steering. David

My Trick Flow's arrived today !!! Oh happy day oh happy day. Now if I could just get the damn block back from the machinist,(Wednesday I hope) and build this thing other wise all parts are here for the build. David

Mike can we get an up close pic of the u-joint that you added to the steering shaft in relation to the header? I just ordered the Trick flows from Summit due to arrive tomorrow, I hope David

Damn Jeromio go easy on the guy already. I'm sorry but that has got to be one of the funniest posts I've EVER read on the borad I can't quit laughing my wife is asking me "what's so funny" I've been drinking, time to go (damn that's funny) I'm outta here ds

I'm running the MS springs at all 4 corners and the car sits low (1 1/2") compared to stock. Getting out of the car is a little difficult but I'm used to it now (I'm 6'2"). A full 2" drop, go with the coil overs because the MS springs are a bit harsh but since they came with my car I can't bitch too much. I guess I've got to drive it more often and maybe they will settle in a little bit. What I've really gotta do is get that 350 roller in the car!!! David

Like to test drive that one around the bedroom !!! ds

Frog, Can you reply to the "old vs. new" discussion on the Chevy V-8 board. We're discussing one piece rear main crank shafts vs. old style 2 piece rear main seal cranks, not age . BTW I'm 32 (damn it's hard to type that, because I feel 19 most of the time anyway) But I figure if you own a magizne over 9 years or 15 years old well...damnit were not getting any younger, and we MUST get these hybrids on the road ASAP!!! Thanks, David Pun intended

Jwink25, I live in Rogers, AR a little bit down the road 45 min +/- depending on how fast ya go . I'm gathering parts for my 73 240 right now and will start a full roller 350 Chevy build shortly (as soon as the block gets back from the machine shop . Gald to have ya on board. Give me a shout some time. I've been planning a short road trip for the Z if the National Guard would let me have some weekends off in the future. Maybe we could hook up next month if things slow down a bit. David

Scott, I checked out my OLD style 2 piece crank against the T-5 flywheel w/153 tooth flywheel (92 model) and all the bolts lined up with the crank. It matches up so well I can use the out line of the old crank that used to be bolted to the tranny. Now as far as the balance is concerned I thought all 350 SBC's were internaly balanced and the flywheel didn't have a balance issue unless you were going to stoke it (383 or other configuration) Anybody want to comment on the balance issue here? (Fast Frog are you running an old style block ie pre 86 with your T-5?) As far as what Denny said that the flywheels were counter weighted for the one piece rear main seal I dunno but would like to hear more. Denny, can you give us more info on this one piece vs. two piece flywheel issue concerning Chevy's only I know nothing about Ford balancing. Jonn Scott good info thanks. David

Has anybody out there that is running a T-5 tried the T 5 5 Speed Counter Gear Stabilizer avaliable from http://www.5speeds.com/index.html. It seems that this would help out the tranny and the cost is only $59.95 but how about installation? I've only worked on a tranny once and that was a 700R-4 (put a shif kit in it) and 3 months later it took a dump on me !!! So I tend to stay away from the slush boxes and leave them to the pros. Anyone? Anyone? (Frog it sound like you collect old mags too nothing like having a 9 year old mag to reference ) David

Sorry if I confused anybody out there. The following info is what I got out of Car Craft magazine dated MAY 1992, on “World Class Act” My saying it’s a True world class is that it’s a World Class not a Non World Class. Like Hydra said Per Car Craft “all GM V-8 T-5’s have a 26 spline input shaft” but the ideal way to ID the tranny is to check the counter shaft-bearing retainer. “If you have a small, single –colored front countershaft bearing retainer stamped ”TORRINGTON” the trans is Non world Class. A large two-color (gray with outer ring) bearing marked “TIMKIN” Identifies a World Class T-5” No there isn’t a fake WC transmission just a NWC and a WC (thanks Hydra for helping out) Hope this clears things up and by the way I got the flywheel too!!! David

Thanks, cool it's a deal or a steal whatever it is it's mine (my wife didn't think it was a deal haha) The guy had it in an 86 T/A but after running the numnbers on it here: http://www.5speeds.com/index.html I found out it came out of a 92 F-body so I kind of figure 9 year old tranny X 10,000 miles/year 90,000 miles if I'm lucky. It probably more than that though. ds

I knew someone was going to ask, and should have posted it in my initial post. $270 I was a bit reluctant to pay that much (I'm a cheap bastard sometimes) but it is a TRUE World Class T-5 (checked it out real good and kept the poker face on the entire time ) so I figured what the heck I'll give it a shot It is complete with shifter too (whoooooh big deal) but thats one less part I have to buy, for now any way. ds

Well I picked up a WC T-5 out of a 92 Camaro last night complete with bell housing, slave clutch ect. I am planning on replacing the clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing with after market parts but I have a few questions. 1. Which flywheel do I use for this application? (168 tooth ect) I’m running a 2 piece rear main block 2. What clutch, pressure plate and TO brng do you prefer aftermarket wise? 3. What starter matches the above-mentioned flywheel? 4. What is the best choice for a master cylinder? 7/8 Tilton? 5. Any additional comments would be appreciated. Except the one that says run a T-56 Fast Frog are you still running a T-5 or did you switch to T-56? If T-5 I would really like more info on your set up. I hope my engine won’t grenade this used tranny with around 400 hp. I guess I’ll just have to go easy on it and cross my fingers. Thanks ya’ll, David

Rick (fast frog), What heads are you running? Are they angle plug or straight plug? Thanks, David

Check out POR-15 high temp coatings. They claim up to 1400 degree heat resistance!!! David

Sounds like a pretty good deal for sweat equity. I guess you've changed your mind about the Camaro? Make sure he's got the title BEFORE you do all the work for him!!! Don't wanna get spanked on this deal Good luck with it!!! David

If you find someone to to repo's of it put me down for one!!! Congrats on winning it David

Anybody know what size the VB cover girl wheels are? They look like 16" w/225's but i'm not sure on that. I have a white z with the same air dam and after seeing that cover I might not go red after all!!! How about the locking gas door that's cool too. I sure would like more info on the wheels though!! Anyone, anyone??? ds