Mike C

You may have the JTR style trans mount. The JTR manual is a good buy for anyone with a hybrid but will help you ID your install as well. Here are a couple of links to trans pans identifiers: http://www.tciauto.com/components/transmission_pans.htm http://www.yourcovers.com/newindex2.htm Motorsport Auto sells floor pan repair sections, or you can use a micrometer on the good part of your floor to correctly ID metal thickness. You may also check with Sherman and Goodmark who are aftermarket sheet metal suppliers. I know Sherman has some Z parts.

What's wrong with hanging out with married people? I have at least 1 or 2 single-guy friends still! Make friends with people at work, at the gym, or the church. Find people with common interest. Best way to meet people to date is through other people you know. Married people have friends, too, you know! You'll be surprised how many people you will meet once you are in the groove. Especially when you have your car. It' amazing how good the ol' bucket of bolts is for meeting people! (maybe not women, but that can come through meeting people in general.) Good luck and hang tough!

Small gains can be had with the Performer over stock above 4500 rpm or so up to around 5500. (I would guess you take your 406 to 4800-5200 or so with that cam?)The stealth will realize larger gains but only above the Performers 5500 rpm max rpm. This is just a generalization, but if you really want more power, you need more cam. I would limit yourself to 5500 rpm if you have the stock rod bolts of the 400, however. The Comp 270 would be good, but dollar per dollar the Crane Energizers seem a better deal. Go with the 278 as I don't care for the 112 lobe separation on the 284. (I ran one for a long time and it never made the power it should have. I had a buddy who had one as well and switched to the 278 with good results.)If you decide on the Stealth, IMO you will need the cam and a carburetor upgrade as well, so it may be best to keep the status quo depending on your budget. The extra displacement of the 406 should still be fine with the 278 cam and the stock converter, especially if it is an F body trans as they have a little more stall than the B body or truck converters.

A lot depends on the diameter of the wheel and the OD of the wheel tire combo. With 15's I would guess 4", with 16's 4 1/2" and same with 17's. You can modify the rear perch and uses shortened 2+2 springs and get a 245 50 16 on the rear with 5" bs. Your best bet is to test fit a wheel and tire combo and make measurements from there. Not all cars are the same (witness my problem with drivers side rear.)Join a Z car club locally or just try and find a member here near you who will loan you a couple of hours and a wheel/tire to test fit. If you would fill out a profile, people would know what part of the country you are in. You should also post what year your car is also since in some cases that can make a difference.

Check out these links for info on the T5 from prior posts: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=001138 http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=001139 IMO, I think the 4 speed would be your best choice JUST for drag racing, combined with the 3.90 diff from a ZX.

It will fit, but you will be better off with 4" backspacing. I had 14x7 Autodrags on my car with 3 5/16" backspacing. They rubbed on the drivers side, but that is partially because of a previous repair to the lip. Th 16x7 I have now are 4" bs.

What are your goals? What year is your car? I'd just try and find a junkyard motor for about $250 unless you are looking to build a serious (read expensive) motor.

This appears to be a service replacement type deal as the 69-70 motors would have had small chamber heads. If it is an L-82 long block with big valve heads and screw in studs, it is a pretty darn good deal! They are still open chamber, but it's a nice price considering the warranty. Otherwise, get the short block and the Vortec head setup from GM.

I am not a fan of 1.6 rockers although my LT-1 does run a set. The cost on the Hydraulic Roller is significant compared to the flat tappet cam. (Over $500 for cam and lifters plus add for custom pushrods) I would consider a mechanical flat tappet such as the Comp 282S as a fine cam for your 327 to shift the power up in the RPM range. This if you do by another cam and lifters. IMO, the mechanical lifters give a broader powerband and more overrev on the top with at least as good an idle. This makes up for the trouble to occassionally lash the valves.

There are several GN powered cars out and about including on this board. Check the alternate 6 cylinder section.

Want'a sell your LSD from the '88?

I thought the manual trans was one of the best handling mods I made to my Camaro. RPM matching downshifting caused the car to be less unsettled when downshifting in a turn vs. dropping the auto shifter down a cog, and the manual trans allowed you to recover from a slide much faster and from further around than the auto trans did. Also lets you go from 2nd to 4th or 3rd to 1st or some other order than 123(4) then (4)321. I also believe it allows you to better modulate wheelspin whether roadracing, autocrossing, or drag racing. Also, I kept breaking the stupid automatics, they don't like the RPM.

I agree with Terry. Fix it sooner rather than later as the fluid tends to destroy the booster.

What kind of work does it need? I am in school now and looking for side jobs. I charge $25 an hour. The r200 should easily handle the power. Just don't go around just baking one rear tire, however. That really takes its toll on the spider and side gears. I consider an LSD to be a mandatory option above 250 hp when the car is driven moderately hard. Some fab work will need to be done for the 5 or 6 speed depending on which one you choose. Mounts need to be moved and driveshaft shortened and possible shifter hole/handle mods as well. If you want a shop still, I like the Love Car Care on N. Mopac next to Corvette Country. Ask for Clay and tell him Mike Cooper sent you. Expect to pay $60-$80 per hour at just about any reputable, reasonable volume shop.

Do a Google search for tuning SUs or get a service manual for a 70-72 (you do have round top SUs?)you can usually get the manuals at a used book store for less than $5. You will need a Unisyn to do it right, howerver. Summit has them as well as MSA and others. They are not hard to tune, but you should get the book that identifies what are mixture adjustments, what are speed adjustments and what are balance adjustments.

Honestly, there is as much if not more support for the late model powertrains than the early models. With late model stuff you get roller cams and high tech cylinder head design. The Buick turbo 6 has been know to make in excess of 1200 hp, as they say, "There's no replacement for displacement except cubic dollars and turbo chargers." The $ is usually the single driving factor in my world and the best bang for the buck IMO, power and economy, is the LT-1 T56 combo. Follow the advice above and start mild. Just getting the combo in and running will be a significant learning experience, and like motorcycles, fast cars should be worked up to in stages. If you want a carb, you can still get an LT1 and buy a Gen II 4 barrel intake from the General. That's what I did just to get my LT1 running in my convertible. Eventually when finances allow, I will buy the DFI setup and go FI.

The 70 LT-1 is a stomper with 11:1 compression, closed chamber big valve heads, and a one year only mechanical cam grind. The 71-72 is still a good motor, but probably 50 horsepower down on the 70 stock with its 9:1 compression, open chamber heads, and different cam. Stock motors compared to each other. (They are rated differently as well, the 71 is SAE nets while the 70 is SAE gross)If it is a good price and it is complete (has the intake, etc.) it should be a good motor.

It is possible. The drivability factor almost dictates FI in my opinion. The LT1 and T56 are the best choice to go with if you want 8 cylinder power for economy and performance IMO. If you want to see how it can be done, look at Scottie GNZs car. 10.50's at 129 and gets 26 mpg on the highway. 3.8 SFI turbo from a Buick GN. I am of the school if it don't go, chrome it. I personally like clean, detailed engineering and not expensive dress up parts, but hey, it's your money.

Just about anything, Tony! Wiring harness, instruments, tail lights, turn signals, switch gear, dash, control cables, bezels, door panels, half shafts, hubs, brake drums, and on and on! Hard to go wrong with a running car for $250.

What do you consider high perf and what is economy? How big a factor is your wallet? Those are probably the questions to answer first. IMO, mid 13's in a daily driver IS a high performance car, and anything above 25 mpg is reasonably fuel efficient. This very accurateley describes the 235 hp 5.0 5 speed 91-92 Camaro/Firebird TPI motor. And with a cam change and exhuast it would not surprise me if it ran 12's. My friends 3700# '74 'vette convertible with non-roller cam TPI 305, headers, and an SLP cam ran 13.97 with the TH700 and 3.07 gears (in Baytown, which DOES help...) and it knocked down 27 mpg on the way there! Knock off 1000# and 25% of the frontal area and you can see as how the Z could run 12's and return better than 30 mpg. Considering my 2.4L 6 gets around 20 mpg with the 5 speed and it would be lucky to crack the 16's, I think relatively, the 305 MORE than meets your goals. The smaller the engine the easier your mileage goals can be met, and the TPI setup is much better suited to 5500 rpm with a 305 than with the 350 because of airflow.

Originally the balancers were designed to be most effective damping within a certain frequency. This usually was dictated by operating range rpm and crankshaft stroke. Max longevity and minimum perceived vibrations were GMs reasoning. Packaging was usually a non-issue, but when I put the Herb Adams front sway bar on my Camaro I had to put 1/4" spacers between the mounts and subframe to clear the 8" Hiperf balancer. It was fine with the stock 11/16 sway bar, however.

I bought the centerforce II so I don't have any real new info for you here.

I think you can have new stub axles made. Check with Dutchman Motorsports, Strange Engineering, or Moser Engineering. Steel axles for American diffs are ~$300. They should be able to duplicate the Nissan stub and cut threads in it for $400 or so I would think. Then you could have what I would guess is a better alloy axle as well as any bolt pattern you wanted.

Like those other guys said, from the top of the strut tube to the bearing the slider is load bearing,like forks on a motorcycle. The original Z dampers were inserts as well and the oil in the housing is used as a heat transfer medium to get heat from the insert to the outer tube so it can be transferred to the air.

99% of the time a low speed bog when you stomp the throttle is TOO LITTLE accelerator pump shot, not too much. There is just a lot of air introduced at one time and a significant shot of fuel is needed to make up for that.