Mike C

Hmm. My buddies '94 does, as well as another guys '96. Me and a friend have done 3.73 or 4.10 gears in 6 of these cars now. I'll haave to pop the hood on more of them! Option maybe? Definitely available.

I'll see if I can get some more photos. I have not mounted the remote yet in this car, but it was done in my last '72. It is a flat chrome plate that surface mounts and only requires a 1/2" hole for the remote cable and two sheet metal screw in the door. The mounting plate for the mirror can either be screwed on with two sheet metal screws or pop riveted. Then one screw holds the mirror to the plate. Take a cordless drill to the boneyard to remove pop rivets on passenger side. Drivers usually screwed on. These mirrors are very common on 70-81 CAmaros and firebirds. They fit much better on the door than the corvette mirrors and are cheaper! I used a chassis punch to put the larger center hole that the mirror remote cable runs through.

All of the small journal engines had steel cranks. All small blocks until recently had forged rods. New ones are powdered metal with "cracked" caps. A studded 2 bolt block is as good as 4 bolts. The combustion chambers of the old double humps are dated and require lots of ignition lead. (I run several sets myself so I ain't doggin' 'em.)But why spend $600 rebuilding the old ones after paying $200+ dollars for cores when brand new heads are less. As far as the mechanical lifter cam, it was designed in the late 50's and they have learned a lot since. A Comp 282S(s for solid lifter) will make more power, get better mileage and have a nicer idle at the cost of a few bucks. But it's nice to have the quiet valvetrain of hydraulic lifters. The Holley 300-36 is pretty much a duplicate of the old DZ302 intake for about $110. I still think a 302 "Chebby" is the ulitmate Z car motor. And mine is slowly coming together ;-)I can't argue with the LT1 being a great swap (Not the LT-1 i.e. 70 Z/28)since the ol' "optispark" eliminates the distributor and my guess is the need to modify the hood latch.

The LT1 is a good choice since it has the goofy optispark I don't think you have to modify the hood latch at all and still use all the JTR dimensions. YOu can even run an engine driven fan from the Caprice/ImpalaSS. I have a friend with a '86 TPI 305 in a 74 Corvette convertible (yes, 305!). With stock runners, plenum and TB but an Edelbrock base (stock one had vac leak) and a Summit TPI cam, ran 13.97 ar 100 mph in Houston. And it got 26mpg on the way down there! That's with 3.07 rear gears and the TH700 in a 3700# car! The TPI is still very valid for a Z, just build a motor that takes advantage of it's strengths. Long runner, good low speed torque. Cam for 5500 rpm power peak. FYI, only difference between 350 and 305 versions are fuel injectors. Beware, Corvette TPI are significantly different from Camaro/Firebird models which are easier to swap.

As far as rear gear, with the .50 overdrive of the T56, even 4.10 are only effectively 2.05 in top gear. Even with 24" tall tires you should be fine with any gear, but 3.54-3.70 is what I would recommend.

Anything before 1980 should have a drivers side dipstick and two piece rear seal. Look to trucks for 4 bolt mains. Behind the timing cover if it has the numbers 010 and 020 it is a higher nickel content than a block with 010 and 010 (same number twice or just one number)The higher nickel content makes for a more wear resistant cylinder bore. 3970010 is the most common casting number and was either two or four bolt main. 1981-1985 have passengers side dipstick and two piece rear main seal. In 86 they switched to one piece rear seal, and most motors by 87 were hydraulic roller cam. To use the GM large journal crank you'll have to stick with one piece rear seal. If 327 is the goal, northernautoparts.com has a hi-perf 327 setup with the following for the garage sale price of $439.99: INCLUDES Hasting Moly Rings TRW Forged flattop Piston Clevite Rod Brgs Clevite Main Brgs Clevite Cam Brgs Melling Hivolume Oil Pump Crane Energizer Camshaft and Lifter Kit Cloyes TRUE Roller Timing Components Pioneer Frost Plugs Felpro Gaskets Regardless of what you decide, run a cylinder head with at least 2.02/1.6 valves and closed chambers (64-67cc) Can't beat the AFR 190's for power output, but $1250 a pair assembled. Next choice would be Dart 215s at $499 apiece. [ July 19, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

Just copied this over from the other mirror post... I have a set of mid 70's Camaro/Firebird remote mirrors on my 240. IMHO, these mirrors are made for these cars! You can even mount the remote adjusters in the door panels. This is a nice setup with lines that closely match the rest of the car. Mine are black now, but will be painted body color on the repaint. Not a very good photo, but for what it's worth...

I have a set of mid 70's Camaro/Firebird remote mirrors on my 240. IMHO, these mirrors are made for these cars! You can even mount the remote adjusters in the door panels. This is a nice setup with lines that closely match the rest of the car. Mine are black now, but will be painted body color on the repaint. Not a very good photo, but for what it's worth...

The biggest killer of low speed torque is cam selection over cylinder head intake port volume. The Iron Eagle 215s make more average torque below 4000 rpm than the 165 or 180s. Big valves seem to help torque at low speeds rather than hamper it. If running Iron heads, go with the Iron Eagle 215s. If using aluminum, go with AFR. 190 if running a dual plane intake and 195 if running a Victor Jr.

Does this have the Chevrolet high rise aluminum intake? All LT-1s did originally. Cylinder heads would be the easiest way to tell. First, should have accessory holes in ends. Pull the valve cover and look for screw in studs and guide plates. (may be able to see/feel in breather hole) If pressed, figure the rest of the info on motor is BS also. All factory screw in studs should be big valve (2.02/1.6)and have machined valve unshrouding in the side of the chamber. Expect a 186 or 492 casting most likely althoug 041 and 370 are also possible. LT-1 was rated at 360 hp in Camaro and 370 in 'vette. Only difference is manifolds/exhaust. The Corvette L-82 with cast iron intake manifold had large chamber heads with screw in studs as did the 71-72 LT-1s.

Hi, What a great board! I am new here but not to Z cars or small block chevys. The large journal 327 was made in 68 and 69 and was made from 68-72. Any of these can be carried over into some 70 models. These 307 or 327 cranks can used to build a large journal 4 bolt 327 using a 350 block as long as the assembly is correctly balanced. I don't believe that bearing spacers are available for a 2.45 to 2.30 main bearing, but you can offset grind the 2.1 diameter rod journal for either more or less stroke and use the 2" rods. I have a 4 bolt main 331 (.030 ) in my Jimmy with over 100k miles on it. Another option (and my favorite) would be to build a 302 using either an aftermarket 3.00" stroke crank and a large journal 350 block or a 283 crank in a small journal 327 block. The 302 (67-69 Z/28 engine)would be a blast to drive with a power band approximating that of the 2.4L engine, with double the power output.