Mike C

There is the Richmond 6 which gives you a super low first and only 1 overdrive. The Ford truck tranny actually uses an overdriven 3rd gear, then flips the shift arm over. So effectively when you push the shifter into 3rd you are really engaging tranny in the 1:1 4th. When you pull the shifter into 4th, you are engaging the tranny into the now overdriven 3rd. Pretty interesting way to handle it, just an awfully large spread between gears. I have a friend running this tranny in a '55 Ford customline with a 292 ci stroker Ford 6 cylinder based on the old mechanical tappet 223 style, he kept breaking the original 3 speed with BorgWarner electric OD. The Tremec 5 speed is the cheapest way to get a single over drive 5 speed and will take the power, but I have heard they are notchy shifting.

It is possible to adapt the ford to a chevy with a special bellhousing and pilot bushing (and vice-versa). This is expensive, so it would be easier (at least cheaper) to use the same OEM trans as motor you choose. From what I understand, the late model Camaros/Firebirds with the 3800 V6 use a Ford world class T5 and a special bellhousing.

My first junkyard 5 speed was broken. I had them in and out 4 times! (Thank god for the lift ) As far as shifters, I first bent the 5 speed shifter with my torch to match the shape of the 240 shifter, but it was WAY too short. I finally got a second 5 speed shifter (from the replacement junkyard tranny) and a second 4 speed shifter. I cut the two just above the pivot and welded them together to get a shifter with the 5 speed length lower and 4 speed lenght/bend upper. Perfect. I swapped in a 3.54 r200 at the same time, but acceleration still sucks. My 5 speed is a '79 with the 2.95 first gear. I've got my eyes open for a 3.70 LSD still which should get it back to the 4 speed overall first gear.

I think you also have to drill out the mounting ears slightly oversize since the T5 bolts up with metric bolts to the bellhousing? I'm considering using stock linkage in my Corvette with stock bellhousing and T5.

The jag v8 is just a Ford mod motor isn't it? Much cheaper to get a 4.6 from a mustang and an aftermarket supercharger I'd think.

Glad I could offer some new info to people on this board. I am planning on getting said stabilizer and a rebuild kit from them (or two) I have two world class 5 speeds and a non-wordclass as well.

Davyz, definitely check out the gearzone page (see my post above) for their countergear stabilizer. They were breaking 5th gear in their racing jags every 30 hours of track time, and have yet to break one since developing the stabilizer. May still blow up on 6000 rpm dragstrip launches, but with a 1000# less than a 5.0 mustang, it should last a lot longer in your z.

My 16x7 are 3.5" backspacing, zero offset. I think you could run 225 50 on these rims. I cannot as shoddy bodywork on my drivers side quarter would rub on 225. Quarter replacement is scheduled for the future, but still fighting a losing battle with the wallet. I would not run 8" wheels if I were you unless you can run at least 4.5" backspacing for outside clearance on the sheetmetal.

This is a little off topic, but check out this web site for their manual tranny rebuild kits and billet countershaft stabilizer. They built the 4+3 OD units for the Corvette Challenge cars and still sell rebuilt/updated units. They make custom T5 trans for road racing jaguars and this cheap (Less than $50) mod seems to make a huge difference in durability of the trans. Also a great site to help identify domestic manual car trannys. Gearzone Home Here is a direct link to the counter gear stabilizer as it was kind of hard to find. Also check out their modded T5 jaguar trans. Super cool. T5 stabilizer [ July 27, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

I have a set of Centerline Billet Aztecs on my 240. They are 16x7 with 205 55 16s and zero offset. This is about as wide as you can go with stock springs. The wheels are well made and look nice. I prefer a wheel with exposed lugs, but not for 50% more money! Mine came from Summit racing at $167.50 each. Took about 6 weeks to get them however since it is not a common bolt pattern/backspacing combo anymore. Here is a photo.

Like everyone else said, dpends on what you want to do! If you want a driver that is easy in traffic, go with the auto. If you want a canyon carver go with the manual. If you have a larger lower rpm motor, go with the auto. If you have a smaller high rpm motor, go manual. It seems that rpm are what really tears the autos up, so if you want a 7000 rpm redline, I'd run the manual trans.

My 'vette is a project been sitting for 15 years. Was stolen and frame bent in '76. Frame been replaced with a '66 (good for my disc swap since the 65 and up frames have caliper clearing depressions) Originally engine tranny etc., but re-assigned vin due to frame swap, thus no value as a collector car. WHich is perfect since I want a driver. 1/2" in the chain is really no big deal. All chains stretch, but they have built that in. Some manufacturers actually offer pre-strectched chains that were originally slightly undersize. Get a dial indicator and rotate the motor counter clockwise and until slack is gone, mark where indicator is, then rotate clockwise until slack gone again. check indicator. If less than 2 degrees, your OK. Drive sid is tight under load which really matters as long as cam timing is not drastically altered (1-2 deg no big deal) Here is a photo of my 'vette.

The 355 in my camaro was in a '78 Z/28 with a Comp 292 magnum hydraulic cam and a '69 Z/28 intake (almost identical to 300-36), 4.10 and a T-10. It ran 13.7's at about a C-note. Car was lightened so probably about same weight as my car. I changed to the street roller and Victor Jr. and ran 12.7's@110 I figure the cam was most of that, but I have had no low speed carburetion troubles with the single plane, and it will spin the tires at will on the street. Car Craft or somebody did a test recently on the single plane Victor Jr. vs. dual plane high rise and said maybe a 10 ft lb drop below 3000 but a 30 lb/ft 30 hp gain on the top if memory serves. Have you looked at the older 282s Comp mechanical cam? It looks like a nice grind that would be easier on cam and lifters as well as springs. I knda' like the single pattern grinds with a free flowing exhaust. Small blocks suffer intake woes but exhaust is pretty good for most part. Is the cam you are looking at one of the new tight lash mechanicals? Are you familiar with them and how quiet they are? I'm planning on a new motor for the Camaro with the cam I have and the 355 will get a hydraulic roller and find a new home between the rails of my '64 'vette, the mechanical roller is just to loud for what I hope to be a regular driver. I just need to win the lotto still!

I feel your pain! There is probably 50hp or so in your heads with the cam you have. More with the bigger stick. Clean up the bowls, unshroud the chamber if not factory 2.02 heads and work the exhaust ports as much as possible. Multiangle valve job and a back cut or 2 on the valve. Screw in studs are highly recommended if not there already. The book "How to build and Modify small block chevy cylinder heads", I think by Vizard, is a great place to start. He shows some modded 186's that flow 260+ cfm at .500 lift. You may start thinking about a VIctor Jr. intake as well which almost equals the 300-36 at lower speeds but significantly out performs it above 6000 rpm.

Hi Pete, considering the weight of a Z car, I think I would go with the larger cam to more closely approximate the power band of the L6. Especially since the smaller one is so close in size to the cam you have already. What type cylinder heads do you have? That would be my number one concern over changing cams. Airflow+power as I'm sure you know.It's interesting to hear ya'lls take on older cams. In my experience they have very slow ramp profiles and low lift numbers relative to new cams since they had to contend with much more poor spring material 40 years ago as well as cam/lifter manufacturing. Aftermarket cam manufacturers measure advertised duration at different lift points, and GM at .001. Comp measures their hydraulics at .006 lift and Crane theirs at .005. This means a given comp is actually a bigger cam than the same number in a Crane grind so watch out for any formulas that involve advertised duration. (The crane 266 compares to the Comp 260) Usually, mechanical cams are measured at a different lift point for advertised durations so that you can compare apples and oranges at .050 which basically lets you maximize the area under the curve when comparing to grinds. I have a comp 280sr (mechanical street roller 236/236@.050 and .550 lift) in my '69 Camaro. Power band is 2000-6500. This car has a 355 with 9.8 flat tops, ported 492 castings, 1 3/4" Heddmans, Victor Jr., Barry Grant stage III 750 (1040cfm didn't gain any speed or mph over the 700dp, boy it sure idled well and starts easy though) 4.10 gears and a super T-10 (2.62 first)let the 3500# car/driver combo run 12.70's at 110mph with a 2.0 short time on McCreary DOT tires. Makes more torque than you could ever use on the street as traction is the number one priority with the car. Let the clutch out at 1800 and it bogs slightly. Let it out at 2200 and it spins the tires halfway through second gear, let it out at 2000 and it hunkers down and goes. I used to have a 9.8 331 in the car with a Crane 284, 228@.050 .480 lift, and it pulled 6800 rpm in first with 4.56 and a TH350 with a stock set of 1.94 heads so your setup I would think would pull better than 7k which should make for a giddy driving experinces!

Unless you are using a late model motor, I would go with the Griffin aluminum radiator from Summit racing. The newer cars have smaller radiator hoses than older V8s and you will have to make adapter hoses. [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

And big. Much stronger than a T56 however and they have a better gear ratio spread. One advantage is that they use a standard push to release GM clutch and bellhousing.

They do look kinda' goofy, but are required for clearance. Probably reasonably efficient since the exhaust gas is already headed up and they use a reasonable amount of pipe to turn the gas back down.

JTR shows how to make all of the components of their kit in the book. I know the exchange kills you, so I would get the book but fabricate the need parts locally if at all possible.

Here are some more pics of my mirrors.

I have a 2 1/2" aluminized DynoMax muffler on mine with center inlet/offset outlet.

If traffic is at all a concern, the rod length is probably a non-issue. Most of the lightweight pistons will be designed for a 1/16 top and second ring which would reduce durability on a street driven car. Better money would be spent on aluminum heads with fast burn style chambers which would also let you run more compression. You'd need at least a 2500 rpm stall converter for the 302. A 327 would probably be a better cheaper solution with an auto. In my experience, the rpm's are the number one killer of automatics more than total power output, so the slightly torquier and lower rpm range of the 327 is more suitable (my 331 used to eat TH350s like no body's business in my Camaro. Shifted about 6800 rpm.)

302 Pistons are very pricey since it is not a commonly built size anymore Expect to pay about 30-60 per piston. 30 being for a 4 valve relief TRW/Speed Pro flat top and 60 for a Ross/Wiseco/JE lightweight piston. It is a perfect motor for a light sports car since it has a broad 1500-6500 rpm power range, similar to a Datsun L2.4, actually. The fact that a mild 302 should make around 300hp and 300lb ft. makes it perfect to use behind a somewhat fragile T5, and with it's short stroke it is 7000rpm plus capable with good rods. Another advantage to the small journal version of the 302 is that bearing speeds are slower so longevity in a high rpm environment is better.

The 302 is the ultimate Z car motor IMHO. There are a couple of different ways to go about it. One is to bore a 283 .125, which is highly suspect and only a few blocks can go that far. The easies is to get a 283 crank and install in a small journal 327 block. All small blocks except the 400 use the same 5.7" long rod. Just large (2.1) or small (2.0) crank bearing. Get a set of small journal rods rebuilt and buy a set of aftermarket 302 pistons in weight and compression of your choice (or one that you and your wallet can agree upon!)Stud and align hone for the new crank. Have rotating assembly balanced and assemble as any other small block. The 4" bore block lets you use big valve heads for maximum unshrouding and airflow. For a street car, I recommend flat tops and 64cc chambers for ~9.5;1 or so compression. A cam with duration in the 230 deg range at .050 should pull to around 7000 rpm in a 302. Try motorbooks.com for "how to rebuild" and "how to hotrod" your small block chevy. Can't go wrong with GM manuals for assembly specs.

Centerline was the best bang for the buck that I found. $167 dollars per wheel (16x7 0 offset) from Summit Racing. Add 10 bucks or so for 8"