280Z Turbo

I don't think they'll grow back. I'm going to run the S12+8 calipers with 15x6 snowflakes and I found that with some grinding on the vertical ridge, I only need a 1/4" spacer.

They're not really that much heavier than stock. Maybe a couple lbs more than stock. Certainly not enough for your average joe to "feel" extra weight.

That might work...that's a lot fab work though. My front Toyota setup was about $300 but my rear setup is more like $500. The next step up is the Arizona Z car Wilwood setup which costs $1600 (twice as much).

http://www.wzzm13.com/news/news_article.aspx?storyid=86444 Watch this video from a local TV station. It's real, but it seems like a Daily Show piece!

On my race team's RX-7 you can't reach the starter button with the belts on tight. Someone has to do it for you.

I might as well get the $6 ones from Summit then. I know a machinist who would do it for me cheap.

The 240SX spacers are $70 for 5mm and $100 for 10 mm. I only need 7 mm. That seems like a ripoff considering I'll just throw out the studs, they're not the right thickness, and they may require machining. I think I'll try the $7 universal kind and if I have a problem, I'll have my machinist make a custom pair. I'm just wondering which of those universal spacers will fit with no machining.

Can anyone tell me which brands of wheel spacer work/DON'T work? I see that there's Trans-dapt, Gorilla, Techno toy tuning, etc. Which one has a large enough centerbore?

I think you want the rear studs from a Nissan Quest (the fronts are too large, IIRC). They are close enough on the knurl end and the thread is exactly the same as stock.

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=2 There's tons of info about this in the archives.

You can still get Porterfield R4-S and R-4.

I would not recommend using S12W calipers. Use S12+8 instead. They have less piston area and will be a better balance for the rear brakes. 280ZX rear brakes won't be as much of an upgrade as the 300ZX rears. Z31 rotors have a larger diameter which means more leverage.

Here's my car with a '70-'72 bumper. I used some 1" x 1/8" aluminum stock available at any Home Depot/Lowe's/etc. I used a thin piece of metal as a template and bent the metal to match.

I don't want to have different lugnuts front and rear. I did some searching and lugnuts from a Nissan van may work: Specifications: Head Code: 403 Knurl Diameter: 12.90mm Thread Pitch: Right Shoulder Length: 15mm Thread Size: M12-1.25 Length: 45.5mm Type: Serrated Stud Features: Zinc plated for corrosion resistance Stock: Specifications: Head Code: 240 Knurl Diameter: 13.00mm Thread Pitch: Right Shoulder Length: 10mm Thread Size: M12-1.25 Length: 32mm Type: Serrated Stud Features: Zinc plated for corrosion resistance

I think I might have my machinist just make me some lugcentric spacers out of steel. He could maybe even use some discs from a Z31 as a template. The rear lugs do feel fairly tight in the hub, albeit not as much as the fronts. I heard about someone using the rear lugs in the front before, so I might just take my chances and do that. I don't want to blow a ton of money on just spacing my wheels out 1/4" I'd rather put money into important things.

There are definately no spacers like that on eBay unless you're talking about adapters which would be way too thick. I'm definately not going for this look: I need to use Nissan lugnuts with my snowflakes because the shank diameter on aftermarket lugnuts is incorrect and will cause wheel damage and/or vibration. So, RX-7 studs are out of the question. I wanted to use the rear studs (which are longer) in the front, but the knurl diameter is smaller in the back than in the front.

Does anybody know the purpose of that weird identation behind the window? I thought I heard it was a vent for when you close the door, but I usually have the window down anyway. I would like to eliminate that thing because it's too gaudy and retro for my tastes.

And a "Datsun" itself is nothing more than a Nissan product masquerading as something else. What's your point? Nothing is sacred here on Hybrid Z.

Nope, 1/4" thick is definately sufficient. I tested this with washers. I have S12+8 calipers and I shaved the vertical ridge off of the caliper face so a 1/4" spacer is all I need to keep my snowflakes from hitting the caliper. I need wheel spacers, not hub spacers. I already have hub spacers from Modern Motorsports.

I think it's being sanded with grit much coarser than 400. The finest stuff we used is 220. The paint was in reasonably good shape and I suspect it was the factory finish. We have done some body work. We welded in some metal patches and bondo-ed over those patches. I am somewhat afraid of sandmarks showing through, but it's not up to me if we prime it or not.

My car did the old click-click thing until recently. I replaced the ignition switch (~$30 part) replaced the connector on the the solenoid signal wire, and I replaced the connector on the back of the switch. Any dirty wires or connectors you can replace will help, but the new switch helped the most for me. My car hasn't clicked since I put the switch in (knock on wood).

A buddy of mine says that it's not necessary to use primer when painting over old sanded down paint. I have always assumed that using primer was required when doing paint jobs. He just wants to use this over the bare metal patches: So is it okay to skip primer and put paint right over old sanded paint or is he full of crap? The car in question is a 1991 Honda CRX, BTW.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=YNchmgNi4kA Not sure if you guys have seen this yet, but the boys from Top Gear gave some last minute gift ideas during the news. Hammond brought out a Mr. K bobblehead: Jeremy's reaction was "You've got to be joking" and he ripped Mr. K's head off. Then, Jeremy went back stage and came back wearing a Z-car shirt: The sad thing is, I know some of you guys out there have this shirt and actually think it looks good.

I just did the vented Toyota 4x4 swap and it appears that I need some ~.25" thick spacers. These would be okay, but since they are not hubcentric or designed for the 4x114.3 bolt pattern I'm worried about vibration: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=GOR%2DSP601&view=1&N=700+4294847663+4294906461+400092+4294906458 Also, do I need longer studs for to run these?

Could we have it so that you can delete your thread as long as nobody has responded to it?