280Z Turbo

What's wrong with a spacer? I have the S12+8 vented type caliper and '84 300ZX non turbo rotors with a spacer from Modern Motorsports.

It's not my idea! See: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TRD%2D1034&N=700+%2D215923+115&autoview=sku

Thanks. I found one on eBay. I just tried to pull the one on my old motor. I wrapped it in a bunch of tape to try to protect the threads, but it was no use. I got it out, but the threads were spoiled.

I have an '81 L28ET in my S30, but the stock sandwich plate and banjo lines are problematic. I don't really want a bunch of adapter fittings and I figure a more elegant solution would be something like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR%2D510ERL&N=700+4294925005+4294908331+4294840126+115&autoview=sku My block looks like this: The bypass valve is in the stock sandwich plate so I suppose I should get an aftermarket plate with that included. I also don't have a nipple in the block. Is there a way to pull that nipple off of my old N/A motor without spoiling the threads? Has anyone used an aftermarket sandwich plate with a turbo auto block?

I'd rather have that bumper too, but a Euro/JDM 2+2 rear bumper is a little hard to come by in these parts. That's why I'm going bumperless in the rear. My stock rear bumper weighs 38 lbs. The shocks weigh about 7 lbs a piece and the rubber add a few more pounds.

I see they still have that big gap between the hood and air dam.

You must be thinking of a second gen. I drive a first gen. The front suspension seems very similar to ours except that the radius rods are in tension. I haven't noticed any ill effects from all the caster. What would be the symptoms if it was binding?

I drive an RX-7 with that delrin/aluminum setup and stock control arms. It has as much caster as possible and I've noticed no ill effects from any binding.

When people call the S130 a 280Z, it makes me want to bang my head against a wall.

Since I already have my compression rods off, I was thinking of shimming them a little for more caster. How much can I shim it out? How much does shimming the compression rod change the caster?

I think I might weld on some sheet metal onto the back and use some exhaust pipe to replace the cups.

I just pulled off my tension rods to swap the rear compression rod bushings from poly back to rubber and I found this One of the cups for the bushings are missing on both sides and there's a big hole in the driver's side. Would this issue cause the car to handle worse? I didn't feel any looseness or instability before, but the car never felt very precise to me. The old poly bushings didn't show any evidence that they were moving, but they could have been for all I know.

Huh?

I got the HP's, though I wish I would have gotten the Illuminas. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKICO-ILLUMINA-SHOCKS-SPRINGS-260Z-280Z-75-78_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33590QQihZ021QQitemZ310063367436QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKICO-HP-SHOCKS-SPRINGS-NISSAN-260Z-280Z-75-78_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33590QQihZ008QQitemZ180259907962QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW The car is stable and the ride is okay. I had it at the track a couple of times and it's very forgiving. It does lower the car. I can't remember how much, but it's not excessive.

I have a Tokico suspension kit on my car that I bought on eBay. They seem to work fine.

Can anyone help? I've looked everywhere for this information and I can't find a thing.

Which terminal is positive and which is negative? There is an upper horizontal terminal and lower vertical terminal.

Has anybody else had issues with clearance problems with the end links? The stock rear sway bar end links are out of the question, but I just picked up some 1 5/8" end links at Autozone and those are still really close to hitting the parking brake arm? How have you guys gotten around this?

The idea of a retro 240Z carbon copy makes me want to puke. Leave the retro B.S. to companies like Chrysler who need gimmicks like that to move their crap off of the lots.

I'm going to run a 1G DSM MAF to turbo boot which has the recirc bung pointed straight at the compressor wheel.

I bought a new Beck-Arnley unit for $90. Worth every penny, IMO.

I agree. Those wheels and louvers are way too mullet for my taste. Nice find.

I used a 30" hardline. I bent a loop in it because it was a bit too long.

Did you shave the drip rails? It looks a lot better without those trim pieces sticking out.

Why do people think S30's were fast? When mine was stock, My '02 Ford Focus could have smoked it in a dragrace but I still got comments about how "fast" it was.