Lewis Maudlin

This is probably not the best gun forum. Ask the member from Oregon who went to prison for a few years as the result of gun charges.

Do I need the Z32 MAF and bigger injectors? I am trying to keep fuel economy reasonable. I would like to be able to get reasonable gas mileage when I don't have the boost cranked up. I don't know when that would be, but it is a nice idea.

I have owned most bikes. If you really want a crotch rocket in your price range, I would recommend an early 90's Katana. If not, the FJ series from Yamaha from the 80's is wonderful. It is a sport tourer. Comes in a FJ1200. It is a great bike that is supposed to go 40,000 miles b/w tune ups. There are also a lot of 80's standards with crotch rocket engines out there. Like the Yamaha Fazer and Kawasaki Ltd. There was also the Kawasaki Eliminator. The Honda's are great too. Little maintenance. I quit riding two years ago when I put my Fatboy in a ditch. My doctor said not to get hit in the head anymore after he put in the titanium plate.

No, I don't have any I/C piping yet. Do you have any suggestions? Anything else I need to replace? Do you know of a source?

Actually, that is the set up I have ordered. I have the following on order and I anticipate ordering the engine and cradle from Vildini soon. price include shipping and tax FMIC Downpipe Tube header $330 for all 3 Walbro fuel pump $ 91 New Oil Pump $100 New Water Pump $ 91 Add to this engine and cradle $2300 plus shipping Putting on straight exhaust and BOV I don't have a standalone or upgraded turbo yet.

I guess a better answer to the rebuild offer would be to inquire as to the warranty? I assume that the engine is warranted. The engine does not need a rebuild does it? Does it carry a warranty like most companies? Thanks Alex. With this info, I am ready to have you ship.

Oh, BTW Alex, I don't need a liftgate. My mechanic has a semi loading dock. I will have it shipped directly to him at zip code 47401. Thanks. Let me know when you have a price including shipping. I will wait on the rebuild for a while. Thanks. Lewis.

I was driving a completely stock Acura Integra with aftermarket wheels through Hamilton County, Indiana when a cop started riding my bumper. Finally, he threw on his lights. He initiated the conversations with the usual, " Do you know why I pulled you over?" Of course, I answered with, "no". He said, "Cause you were drivin like a bat out of hell and switching lanes all over the place". After a short discussion about the speed limit on that road, the officer admitted that I was not speeding. The speed limit was 50 and I had not exceeded that speed between the 3 stop lights that I had travelled on that road. Then the officer proceeded to tell me that I was switching lanes all over the place. I explained to him that I had no idea what he was talking about. He went to his car and came back with a warning. I then asked what he meant by switching lanes all over the place. I realized while he was gone that I had switched lanes once since I had been on the road. I asked him if I had crossed any lines. He said that he meant that I was all over the place when I was switching lanes. I had gone in a three lane from the right hand side of the right lane to the left hand side of the center lane. I again asked him if I had crossed the fog line or into the left lane. He said that I had not, but I had gone from the right hand side of the right lane to the left hand side of the center lane. I explained that was not illegal to which he replied, "well you didn't signal when you switched lanes". I finally told him that he had something there, I didn't signal when I switched lanes. All of this because I was driving an Acura Integra with aftermarket wheels.

I will have it go straight to my mechanic. I don't think he has a forklift though. A liftgate will probably be necessary. Thanks. Oh, BTW, I asked questions about reliability of your engines and what steps you take to make sure that your engines are reliable. You did not answer those questions. Other companies do compression and leak down testing. Some do other things. I am just trying to make sure I get the best engine possible for my money. I would like to have a great swap. Thanks. Lewis.

I sent an e-mail to Alex at Vildini. Since they actually participate here, I suspect that they will be the most likely to provide a reliable engine.

OK, I wasn't trying to be difficult. I am just new to the nissan 4 cylinders. I am just trying to build the best car I can on my budget. I just didn't know the differences. After input and research, I am going with an S13. I suppose if I can find a black top, I will get it since it will not be as old as the red top. Hopefully, it will have fewer miles. Does anyone know of a good source or are there any suppliers that can hook me up with a low mileage red or black top S13 for a good price shipped to 47401? Thanks.

OK, S13 or S15. The S15 initially has more power. Apparently it will sustain more horsepower? Is there any reason to buy an S13? The cost is initially cheaper, and its head flows better at 500hp. Any other reason? Anyone? Does the S15 have any advantages? More initial horsepower, better turbo. Anything else?

According to everyone else at this site, including those who build conversions, the S13 turbo does not max out at 270hp. Do you know something that everyone else doesn't?

BTW that was $210 more for the ACT clutch, more than the exedy. $385 for the clutch.

So, OK, add on $210 more for the ACT HDSS clutch and $240 for the intake manifold. That puts me at $3505. DOH!!! Oh well, I have budgeted $5,000 that means I will have to do more of the work. Also, $300 engine cradle, $250 exhaust, $200 driveshaft. Puts me up to $4255. Sure doesn't leave much for a mechanic, huh. Maybe I need to increase this to $6000 and hope that I can keep labor to $1750. Good thing George Bush is always on TV telling us how good the economy is.

What is a good streetable clutch? I drive 70 miles a day and would like something driveable. Which intake is project 240 using.

Well my plan is to spend around $3000. If I don't get enough hp right away, that is fine. Should I go bare and get a standalone fuel management now? Is that going to be a whole lot more expensive? Right now, here is what I have found at these prices: S13 complete $2300 delivered Water pump $ 90 Oil pump $ 60 FMIC, Dump kit $ 330 and exhaust manifold Walbro fuel pump $ 100 Exedy Clutch $ 175 TOTAL $3055 Now I still need to buy an engine cradle from Vildini for $300. Am I forgetting very much? I know I will need an exhaust and driveshaft custom made. Also, I will need a surge tank. So, opened up like this with a boost controller, I hope to have close to 250rwhp boosted up and close to 205rwhp at 7psi. I realize that this is more than stock hp, but I was hoping that opening the intake and exhaust would get me a little hp. What do you think?

We were talking about $3000 plus labor. I think I can get close to that.

So the S14 is not the way to get 300rwhp. I keep finding deals on them that are close to the price of an S13. Is there any truth to the suggestion that an S14 would have fewer miles? Thanks for the info. I guess I don't need the bb turbo since I will probably just upgrade it in a year or so anyway. If that is really the only advantage, I'll go for the S13

OK, I am still working on piecing together what I will need to come up with a price list. Is there any advantage to an S14? I got a sales pitch of newer motor, probably less miles, more agressive cam, more horsepower. Since the S13 motor is older, the swap probably have more miles. That seems to make sense. I was told the S13 head flows better but not until 400-500hp. I intend to drive my car so I am looking at 300rwhp as a goal. I am not too concerned about how the head flows at 500hp. Suggestions, recommendations?

What kind of fuel management are you running? How are you adjusting your boost? What do you recommend?

Ok, does the fuel pump you sell have a surge tank set up? How did you set up your surge tank? Also how much for the engine cradle? I would like to order on Wednesday when my mechanic should come through.

Is there a recommended fmic? If I get the fmic, do I need the ecu and harness? Can I save any on the engine if I go with the fmic? So SR240, you can supply me with the engine, the mounts, the water and oil pumps, anything else? FMIC? What kind of money. My e-mail is lewismaudlin@yahoo.com

OK, so if I want to spend $3000 on motor and accessories? What should I buy? Any opinions? I need everything for the swap plus any incidentals that would be a good idea.

Well, I don't think the 280Z is going to be heavier by much. I have been on the Z scene for a while. The main contributors to the weight of the 280Z were: 1. The crash bumpers (gone). 2. The heavier transmission (will be gone) and R200 rear end. 3. The fuel injection and emissions (will be same as 240 after swap) Once both cars are swapped, the weight will be within a few pounds of the same. Do you think the SR20DET is the way to go? It sounds like exactly what I wanted. A 12 second daily driver that gets decent gas mileage when the boost isn't dialed up. I know my goal isn't very realistic, but you have to have a goal.