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Posts posted by Lewis Maudlin
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Vaccuum by itself won't work. The dirt has been bonding to the metal for 30 years. Some amount of water is needed.
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OK, I got my "rust free" donor from Oregon. It is mostly rust free. I am starting to dynamat parts for the car and/or insulate. The problem I have is that there is 30 years of dust or dirt in the car. I have stripped the interior and the dust is a major pain in every nook and cranny.
Would I be completely crazy to just take my pressure washer on its lowest setting and clean the dirt? I figure I could vaccuum excess water out with the shop vac then put it in my garage with my dehumidifier in the car for a couple of day. I then intend to spray some Eastwood rust encapsulator then dynamat.
What do you think? Bad idea or it will work?
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The point was that the joker claimed it was for installation in an S30 Z for $2500 in less than 6 hours. He finally admitted in the original post that he misunderstood his friend's quote.
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Man you guys got it rough in CA. I keep seeing pictures of 100 year old military weapons on this site. Sporterized or not, they are still 100 year old military weapons. I admit, I do own an SKS, but I have a few AK's and a nice Rock River with a 24" barrel that can shoot sub MOA at 500 yards and one hole all day at 100 yards.
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Did you guys see this post?
Hmmm I don't know that seems a bit too pricey... A friend I have on myspace does engine swaps he will do an sr20det swap for my 280z and charge 2,500 he supplies the motor he gets everything done within 6 hours or he discounts 50 dollars. Cool huh? For a 240sx Sr20det he charges 2,300 within the 6 hour range.I called BS.
I guess I could also install at that price, $50 off if it takes more than 6 hours and another $50 off if it takes more than 6 years and another $50 off it takes more than 25 years
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Hmmm I don't know that seems a bit too pricey... A friend I have on myspace does engine swaps he will do an sr20det swap for my 280z and charge 2,500 he supplies the motor he gets everything done within 6 hours or he discounts 50 dollars. Cool huh? For a 240sx Sr20det he charges 2,300 within the 6 hour range.
Is it inappropriate for me to call BS? No way.
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OK, for those that have SR20DET's in their first gens, what rear end ratio are you running? I have a 1978 M/T so I am running a 3.54. However, my powerbrute lsd is on its way so I was thinking about changing gear ratios? Do you have any suggestions? If I grab a diff at the pick and pull with a different ratio am I going to run into problems? Wasn't the SR20 in the Silvia with a 4.11 rear? Of course that was a much heavier car. My car screams and gets 30mpg, but I was thinking...
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I purchased one off ebay with garrett internals for $400, it lasted 15 minutes. It was replaced with one that "really" had garrett internals, it didn't last 5 minutes. I bought a garrett GT2871R for $1000. I daily drive it at 18psi.
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At one time, I listed my full swap including prices. I have since switched to the Power FC D-Jetro. A standalone is expensive, but I spent a lot more trying to keep from using a standalone. I should have done this from the start since it did away with the recirculation from the BOV, the MAF and the O2 sensor. I was happy to just throw the MAF out entirely. A MAP based standalone is the only way I will go in the future.
My swap is a daily driver SR20DET with 350-400hp at the wheels. I get 30 mpg during normal daily driving. The boost is set at 18psi for daily driving. In regards to the initial comment that the RB is a "better" swap, I do not understand what the person means by better. That probably depends on his goals. I think the SR20DET is the perfect swap for my goals. I wanted a driver that I could commute to work in at 70 miles roundtrip a day, that would not bankrupt me on gas, that was extremely quick and would likely run a 12 second quarter on street tires. So my goals were: 1. reliability 2. speed 3. gas mileage. In theory with real tires and a decent driver, my car should run the 1/4 in the high 10's or low 11's with the boost turned up a little more.
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I am running 18psi and daily driving my SR20DET. I get about 30 miles/gallon depending on how much I put my foot in it.
Definitely, go with the 740's. My GT2871R would keep 550's at 95-100% duty cycle. I would rather run the bigger injectors at a lower duty cycle.
The 3" downpipe is a must. Ask around. I have a buddy that has had two that have cracked. I got mine off ebay and it has been fine. He got his off ebay and it broke.
The standalone is a good suggestion. I know you are on a budget, but it cost me more to get the computer running right than for any other part of the car. The best move I made was finally going with a MAP sensor and doing away with a lot. I no longer have a MAF sensor or 02 sensor for the computer. How great is that.
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yes, I tried that, their temp sensors did not say what temperature they activated at
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OK, I have been driving my car again for a while. I worked out the ECU issues by putting in a Power FC D-Jetro.
My question is where I can find a temperature sensor. I have the camaro radiator with a taurus fan. It cools fine, but when sitting in traffic, the car heats up. The fan does not kick on until the sensor reaches 200 degrees. The sensor is on the radiator. The guage which has a sensor on the block reads 218 before the fan kicks on. I dunno if the gauge is incorrect or if the block is 20 degrees hotter than the coolant temp. Either way, I would like to find a 3/8" NPT temperature sensor with one pole that kicks the fan on at 180 degrees instead of 200. Any suggestions?
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I am still working on putting 318 seats in my car. They are a pain since the seats mount from side bolts instead of bottom bolts.
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Rear engine Mini with blower.
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Which one do you think is faster?!?!
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/92354/dodge_viper_vs_suzuki_hayabusa/
177 mph om the street is a bad idea
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check freshalloy. One guy there has a sweet red SR20DET powered roadster. Look in the clssic datsun forums.
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OK, here's the scoop. Anyone with an SR20DET may benefit from my experience. Apparently, the ECU board is bad or the connection to the daughterboard. This explains why from time to time my car has run great. I used to run a different Mine's tuned ECU. Word is that cars with bad ECU's run without a tuning map and run extremely rich. So if this happens to you, now you know.
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The only problem that I am aware of using the GTI-R engine would be that the block is the same as the front wheel drive sentras and not the rear wheel drive 240's or Silvias. In short it wont work. Just buy a nice S13 Turbo motor(red top) and enjoy. You could look for a S14 put the for the difference in price it isnt worth the extra money. Everything you would change on the S13 you would also end up changing on the S14....so start out cheaper and you will be way ahead.
DITTO!
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Changed the title. I thought you had problems crapping. That clearly isn't what this thread is about.
Nice move, only I don't have a Z32 ECU. That is what the MAF is from. Apparently, you decided to change the title without know what we are talking about?
Anyway, I will check to voltage. That could be an issue. Good suggestion on the voltage. The MAF has now been checked on a machine to check MAF's. It is within spec and working properly.
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Checked, checked and checked. Still no problems other than 10:1 or richer at idle. Maybe the harness is the issue? I think it is the only thing other than the block I have not replaced.
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11:1 is the leanest I can get it. It might lean further under enough boost. That was at idle
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OK, since I changed to the Z32, 740's and GT2871R, I have been having an issue. The car runs rich. I have checked everything except the MAF and the computer. The computer has an enthalpy ROM tune. Enthalpy has been good to deal with and has sent other chips. Even with an AFC maxed out, I can only get to 11:1 AFR. Anyone have a suggestion?
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cygnusx1... I gauge everything by my butt. I feel the power of my car by my butt, my ex-wife was a pain in the butt, my boss is a butt-chewing SOB, etc. TORQUE is my only joy at the moment. VIVA LA BUTT-WRENCHING TORQUE!!!
Personally, I would use a ruler or a micrometer or a ring guage.
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I got mine from http://www.hybridynamics.com I also got Nismo 740 injectors from them. The only problem I have had was with the ROM tune. It is now about fixed. They were very knowledgeable and helpful.
Oh, and they were the cheapest around too. $1110 for the GT-2871R
Where can I find a Grill like this?
in Body Kits & Paint
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Agreed, or JC Whitney or Summitracing.com or any company. I don't think they cost $50.