Lewis Maudlin
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Posts posted by Lewis Maudlin
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Yes, I am getting around 25 mpg with my SR20DET. Just remember when you watch that boost gauge swing from vaccuum to boost -
Fuel economy gauges in most cars are just vaccuum gauges
So as the gauge swings, you can just watch fuel consumption go up.
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I think you will have adverse effects from running your car too cool. The more heat, the more power to a certain extent.
It sounds like your thermostat is not closing after opening. If it opens at 76.5, it should close when it cools then heat back up and open.
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yeah but that thing doesnt get shi$t for fuel milage and im sure has to use spendy fuel, id rather have my sr20det 240z tuned to the beat of 400 ponies, be a classic, not have to worry about emissions, get good fuel milage, be trackable, streetable, AND commutable. and cheaper lol
actually, the LS2 gets aound 25 mpg. Driving out of boost, his would except for the cams, bored engine, etc. I will have to ask him what kind of mileage he gets.
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Do a search. Almost everyone here soft mounted their radiator using some form of rubber. Some even used rubber from tires.
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That would be around $150k here. On the negative (?), I am a long way from DC.
It is a great house for a great price for that area.
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I've never heard that before. Are a lot of people complaining about this?
Usually any tune using the stock ECU will not be effected by warmup issues. The reason is that tuners don't touch that part of the computer.
Are you having issues with it taking too long to warm up or something?
Is your radiator fan running full time from the get-go?
No, it warms up just fine. The issue is that before it warms up, the car runs too rich. It coughs and sputters if you give it too much gas. May be a TPS issue.
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My main problem is that I haven't had time to jack with it since I have been driving the car every day. I have the passenger's seat removed since I am fabbing brackets for 318 leather seats.
I still have the piece of crap mbc from ebay. I am going to remove it this weekend to see if that helps. I doubt that it would be leaking just a little at a time, but weirder things have happened. I think if I remove it completely, I will be fine since the GT2871R is supposed to be wastegated at 14psi. That is enough for street driving for me. I will disconnect it and see what happens.
Alex, what BOV do you guys use? I am running bypass so I stick with Greddy Type S, but I don't want to spend the bucks for a Greddy. Should I just fork out the dough and get it done right?
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Hey, check out this roadster. It is by far the coolest roadster I have seen.
http://photos.freshalloy.com/gallery/v/detroadster/
You may have to register to see the pics. Then if you car to see the Z, mine is at:
http://photos.freshalloy.com/gallery/v/SR20DET280Z/
or
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No good story here. I thought my SR20DET powered 280Z was fast. I saw my friends LS1 408 stroker C6 vette with a front mounted T88 and water injection. It seemed like it might be faster. He claimed the dyno cut out at 1340 whp. It has a lopey cam but could be daily driven. Although, I don't think the Mickey's would do too well in the rain.
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Mine didn't have spark. I thought it was the ecu and it turned out that the CAS was not properly installed.
Also, I had to get a new starter. The starter would not crank hard enough to start the engine. Are you sure your starter is working properly?
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New ECU is great. Car runs like a scalded dog. I like the plug and play. Now, I can be pretty sure that any other issues are mechanical. Before, I could not determine what issues were mechanical and what issues were the tune.
My only issues are:
1. It cuts out if you get on it before it gets warmed up
2. It spools to about 9 psi, stalls there or drops to about 7 psi, then spools the rest of the way to about 17 psi.
I think the warming up issue is common to enthalpy tunes.
I think the spooling issue is from a small leak at my ebay BOV. Well, that is what my mechanic says. I have another BOV on order.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
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The S53 seats wouldn't fit. I found a set of like new BMW 318 leather seats for $250 from the local pick and pull. They are sweet. I am in the install process now. They are going to fit.
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I went with an Enthalpy tune. http://www.rs-enthalpy.com It was worth it.
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What are peoples opinion of various engine management system options for the SR20DET? This would assume a SR20DET running less than 20psi tuned for 91 octane gas. I've been leaning towards the FC Commander set-up. I'd like a 'set-it-and-go' arrangement.
I'll sell you my Power FC, Commander and Datalogit.
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Wow, I am impressed. That is really cool. It looks like the 523 weight is probably right on the money once you deduct the cradle.
Now, could you do that with an SR20DET? Then we would really have something to compare.
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Honda's are nice and reliable.
My Z is reliable. I dropped the L28 and put in an SR20DET. It runs great.
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Well, I picked up the 318 seats. I will let you guys know if they fit.
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Actually, all I am trying to say is don't trust the weight tables. I think John C. is probably right when he says to add 80 lbs. He should know. I don't know what each motor weighs, I just find it hard to believe that iron weighs less than aluminum. (50% bigger engine weighs 6% more). I don't know which weights are right, but I believe that certain weights are wrong.
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An SR20 long block with intake mani is around 200. I don't remember exactly but me and a friend easily picked it up and put it on a bathromm scale. I think SC was way off. Maybe they included to crossmember and rack?
It did include the exhaust manifold, turbo, side mount intercooler and transmission. I just refuse to believe that iron weighs 33% (6 vs. 4) less than aluminum. Maybe if you chose a different reality.
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I don't believe that an iron 6 cylinder block weighs 33 lbs more than an aluminum 4 cylinder block. Even if a 20 lb turbo is added.
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So, I remember the SR20DET article in Sport Compact. It listed the weight with the 5 speed. The complete weights table said + 5 speed which most have thought meant with 5 speed.
The L28 weight says + 5 speed which I thought again meant with 5 speed. It however means 523 lbs plus the 5 speed?
I am finally understanding this conundrum? Several guys that have nothing better to do than put down the SR20DET have been saying that there is only 33 lbs difference between the two. Am I to understand that there is actually 113 lbs difference? That could be possible.
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I don't think you can believe the complete engine weights table.
It says:
SR20DET Complete
+ Five Speed 490lbs (source Sport Compact Car)
L28 complete with stock manifolds, SU's, and A/C compressor + 5 spd 523lbs
The SR20DET is a 4-cylinder aluminum blocked motor probably without A/C
The L28 is a 6 cylinder iron blocked motor.
Yes the SR20DET does have a turbo, but only 33 lbs of difference??? The L28 guys will swear its correct, but the last time I checked, iron weighed about double what aluminum weighed.
I saved more than 33 lbs on my sbc conversion by replacing the iron heads with aluminum ones. One would think that replacing the block with one half as big made of aluminum would save more.
No, I have no empirical data, just observational data.
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They are E36 seats. Not the vader type. Very nice. Look a lot like Corbeau GTS.
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Anyone?
Hogzilla...is it just an urban legend?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
why did he bury it?