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Miles

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Posts posted by Miles

    Toyota front brake upgrade - still relevant?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by Miles

    5 hours ago, fusion said:

    Thanks for your reply.  I will be running stock 2015 mustang rear brakes which are 11.8" calipers

     

    Factory brakes are designed as a system. Change one component and it has a domino affect. 

     

    You will need to consider brake bias in your decision on matching front brakes to the Mustang brake you already have.   I recommend that you read up on front to rear brake bias before making a decision on any front brake install.  Brake bias is covered extensively in the Brake Forum.

     

     

    • Like 1

    Toyota front brake upgrade - still relevant?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by Miles

    Can't recommend a front brake system without knowing the details for the rear brakes you have. Need to know what rotor size and calipers are on the car now.

     

    Yes, the information on the link for the Toyota swap is correct, but I do not recommend the Wilwood MC as I had three of them fail - two of which leaked internally right out of the box.

     

     

    My set up is:

     

    • Front - Toyota calipers, solid rotors and Carbotech AX6 pads. Unless you are racing you do not need vented front calipers.
    • Rear - 240SX calipers, 300zx rotors (non turbo) and Carbotech AX6 pads.
    • Booster - 9 inch 280z
    • Master cylinder - 15/16 280ZX purchased from Arizona Z Car. Tried the Wilwood 1 inch MC three times but they all failed.
    • SS flex lines
    • Brake bias calculations:  Front - 60%  Rear - 40%
    • Toyota calipers clear my 15in Ansen slotted wheels.

     

    I have had this setup for 12 years and it works well for street driving. The only thing I don't like is that the pedal travel is a bit long. The Carbotech AX6 pads have the best cold bite of any pad I have ever used and the bite gets better when the pads heat up. These pads never fade. I have heated them up to smoking hot and there was no fade.

    2021 s30 Windshield Seals

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I have done two 240z restorations (2001 and 2009)  and was able to use the Precision kit for everything, but the doors, windshield and outer hatch seals. My windshield and hatch seals are OEM and they fit perfectly.

     

    Re: Vintage Rubber. 

     

    It was my understanding that they were making their own rubber seals from scratch. All you can do is call them and ask if they are just selling the Precision seals or making new seals.

     

    https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/240-z/?sort=featured&page=1

     

     

     

    Also, for current restoration information, try researching the Precision kit at the Classic z Car Club:  https://www.classiczcars.com/

     

     

    Lastly, I recommend this book for anyone restoring/working on a 240z/260z/280z:

     

    "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" by Wick Humble.  Available at Amazon.

     

    Hint: For the windshield and hatch seals, install the stainless steel trim in the seal before installing it in the car.   And the rope trick works perfect.

     

    If I were doing this today, my first choice would be OEM seals and maybe Vintage Rubber after a complete review of their products.

     

    For certain the Precision windshield and hatch seals were deformed in the corners and impossible to use.

     

     

     

     

     

    Ignition Switch Wiring Question

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted · Edited by Miles

    "In the ignition switch, there's your standard contacts for the accessory power, ignition power, and starter relay, but there's also a pin that heads to the coil via the tach. This wire is also joined to the ignition pin through a resistor. Am I interpreting this correctly when I conclude that since I'll be using coil-on-plug and an aftermarket tach that I can omit this wire? "

     

    Do you mean the green - white wire? On cars with point type distributor, this wire is attached to the (+) side of the coil and was intended to provide a full 12 volts to the distributor during cranking.  If you are using an HEI distributor or some other ignition you can use this wire to run the electric fuel pump while cranking. The ignition switch energizes this wire wire just before engaging the starter which makes it handy for filling the bowels on carburetor equipped cars before cranking the engine.

     

    Or do you mean the Black - White wire with protective sleeve?  This wire provides power to the distributor or HEI dist. or other ignition system

     

    Here is how I wired my SBC 350 with an  HEI distributor:

     

    GRN - WHT Attach to fuel pump side of oil pressure safety switch so fuel pump will operate during starter operation
       
    YLW - BLK

    Oil pressure gauge

     

    BLK-WHT without protective sleeve

    		TACH terminal on HEI distributor. Used only with 280Z tach

    BLK-WHT with protective sleeve

     

    BAT terminal on HEI distributor. This is the wire that provides power to the HEI distributor or other ignition system.

    YLW-WHT

    		Water temp gauge

    WHT - RED (thick)

    		Alternator terminal. Use 14 ga. Fusible Link.

    280Z BLUE WIRE

    		Not used

     

    WHT

     

    Positive terminal on starter

    BLK - YLW

     

    Starter S terminal

     

    Stock brake refresh

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Useful information:

    • Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html

    • Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.

    • Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.

    • Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.

    • Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.

    • Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.

    • Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions

    https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness

    http://zhome.com/

    https://www.zcar.com/

    https://www.classiczcars.com/

    http://www.zcarparts.com/

    http://www.arizonazcar.com/

    http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

    Stock brake refresh

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    "Do we have a step by step checklist, for what ought to be done?  And to reiterate, this isn’t a plea for advice on upgrades.  I just want this car to brake and handle like it would have done, 25+ years ago."

     

    These cars are pushing 50 years old.  In the interest of your safety and public safety rebuild the brake system.

     

    Here is the list of parts to replace.

    • Booster
    • Booster vacuum hose and check valve
    • Master cylinder. Lear how to bench bleed it. Learn how to adjust the booster push rod length. Too long and the brakes will lock up.  Too short and the pedal travel will be excessive.
    • All rubber brake lines replaced with SS flex lines.
    • Front: calipers, pads, rotors and wheel bearings
    • Rear: drums, wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, retainers. Learn how to adjust the brakes.

    Pads and shoes:  Carbotech  AX6  https://ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds2.asp

    Carbotech AX6 pads have excellent cold bite which is what you want for a daily driver. Call Carbotech to get a quote for pads and shoes. You may have to send them the old shoes as cores.

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