Miles
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Posts posted by Miles
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280z 8.5 inch dia booster
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Try the math as a starting point.
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22 minutes ago, captainkim said:
Thank you guys for the quick reply!!! This forum is awesome. Regarding the relays...it sounds like it’s more of a added feature and if possible add it everywhere? Is there a danger of not adding any relays? I thought I read that the 240z dimmer switch had a relay built in?
thanks
The 240z does not have a relay built into the dimmer switch. It is just a a piece of copper that switches between the high and low light circuit.
If you examine a 240Z combination switch you will see that the contacts are just small, thin, pieces of copper bits which are subjected to heating and pitting from arcing when a high amperage load is supplied. Headlights pull high amps across those metal bits in the switch.
Using relays for the headlights takes the high amp load off of the wiring and those copper contacts inside the switch.
For over 40 years Z owners have reported having their combination switch melt due to high amp loads.
So yes headlight relays are a good idea.
Many Painless harnesses have been installed in Z cars so it is likely that there is a relay write up on HybridZ or at ClassicZcars.com.
Benefits of headlight relays:
- Less stress on wiring and the combo switch
- The lights get a full 12 volts
- You can run higher amperage headlights such as H4s etc
Note: A relay for the electric fuel pump is also a good idea.
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Would a block hugger exhaust manifold work?
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Could be battery/alternator related if the car sat a long time. Take the battery and alternator to Oreileys or Autozone and have them checked out.
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Changing the MC will not damage the booster.
Your booster has failed internally or you are not getting vacuum from the engine.
Suggest that you inspect the vacuum hose and fittings between the intake manifold and the booster. Verify that you have vacuum at the booster connection.
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Drain the differential and check for metal particles.
Another possible source of a clunk:
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1 hour ago, JMortensen said:
Also losing fluid from one of the reservoirs is usually a symptom of a bad primary cup seal in the master. If it's in the front it will usually push fluid into the rear reservoir. If it's in the rear it will dump fluid into the booster.
I've had a brand new Tilton master leak. I'm sure it's not unheard of with Wilwood as well.I had three Wilwood MCs fail right out the box. Two of them leaked internally and the third MC had smashed MC bleeders. I ended up purchasing a 79 280ZX 15/16 MC from Dave at Arizona Z Cars for about $125.
4 hours ago, nzarano said:I pulled the rod and reaction disc out and glued the disc in place as per the faq.... would the rod adjustment being wrong create a hiss or is that just from the booster failing?
Good deal. The last time a reaction disk fell out I made a new one from a rubber stopper and used JB Weld to glue it to the push rod.
Please post how you get things worked out.
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20 minutes ago, nzarano said:
is it possible the boot on the back end (boot thats behind the pedal) has something to do with it? might have messed that up
No.
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The hissing sound suggests a failed booster. After you test the booster per my previous post, and it fails the test, replace the booster.
Typical booster installation errors include push rod adjustment and/or the reaction disk falling out. See the brake FAQ and brake forums for details.
Suggest that you read up on push rod adjustment and the raction disk.
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Sounds like a booster problem.
Check your booster and vacuum hoses to the booster. Also, make sure that the check valve is installed correctly.
Check that the push rod between the MC and the booster is adjusted correctly.
Booster check:
With the engine off, place your foot on the brake pedal and apply pressure like you are trying to stop the car. Hold that pressure.
While still applying pressure on the brake pedal, start the car. You should feel the brake pedal sink a bit and become softer to push. It means that the booster is working. If the pedal remains hard to push during the test then there is a booster issue. Most likely the booster is leaking or it is not getting vacuum from the engine.
The other cause of a stiff pedal would be if the MC push rod is adjusted too far out such that it is pushing the piston inward in the MC. What happens is the piston gets pushed past the the point where the the fluid return port is covered so fluid gets pumped out to the brakes but can not return to the tanks when the pedal is released. So the brakes become locked. If this happens you can relieve the pressure by opening the bleeders on the MC.
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Motor Sport Auto (MSA) in California sells carpet kits.
https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08g06c/40-2584
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1 hour ago, captainkim said:
My Painful wiring should be coming in tomorrow. I wish i could figure this out but electric is my achilles heel. not sure what pics of the engine wiring you want to see but maybe this will shed some light
IMG_1100.HEIC 1.43 MB · 3 downloads IMG_1506.HEIC 1.17 MB · 2 downloads IMG_7128.HEIC 1.35 MB · 5 downloads
Can't open pictures.
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Would like to see pictures of the engine bay wiring.
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The Painless install is documented throughout HybridZ and on the web.
Suggest that you purchase a copy of the Jags that Run 240Z V8 conversion manual (link below).
Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.
Suggest you buy a book on auto electrical wiring such as the one pictured below.
Here are some links that may be helpful for your project:
https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/29786-painless-harness-to-z-column-harness-headlight-combo-switch/
https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/
http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
https://jagsthatrun.com/products/jaguar-v-8-conversion-manual?_pos=1&_sid=5f8e0c2e4&_ss=r
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I had the same problem with my first 240Z. The PO butchered the wiring. Took me weeks to trace each wire he installed and put the wiring back to stock.
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What year Z?
Download a schematic for your car. There are many on-line. Some are in color.
Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM)
For example, the 1972 starter wire is black - yellow and it attaches to the solenoid "S" terminal
Don't advise doing a re-wire of the whole car at this point.
From the picture: has the fuse box been replaced?
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Seems to be a rash of new members posting in the FAQ. They don't realize that members can not reply.
Suggestion: Modify the FAQ heading to read "FAQ - is read only. Do not post here"
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Nice car!
Welcome
Useful information:
- Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329
- Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.
- Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.
- Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
- Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!
- For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video.
- Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
- Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
- Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions.
- Search the Hybridz forums.
- Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs
Links:
https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness
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The reason I eliminated the tank was to eliminate gas odor inside the car.
break booster failing what are my options for 76 280z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Look for a company that rebuilds brake components (not a brake service shop) and see if they can rebuild it for you. This is what I did when I couldn't find a new 280Z booster. I bought a booster from a local junk yard and had a local brake component rebuilding shop rebuild it. I recall from about ten years ago, that Cardone used to provide this same service where you have O'reillys ship them the part, they rebuild it and then ship it back to O'reillys. For example, I took a leaking master cylinder to O'reillys and they shipped it to Cardone. Cardone rebuilt the MC and shipped it back to O'reillys.
If you live in, or near, a big city there may be a company that rebuilds brake components.