Miles
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Posts posted by Miles
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1 hour ago, JMortensen said:
Not if the prop valve was set to a lower setting than the stock one it replaced.
Some members just gutted the stock PV. Don't know how effective it was though.
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39 minutes ago, grannyknot said:
How did you even that out, prop valve on the front?
Does not make sense. If high front bias a PV on the rear would make it worse
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4 hours ago, Neverdone said:
So question to those who know things about things.
Let's say a person has the Toyota S12+8 calipers up front (the solid rotor variety, not the vented kind) and 240sx calipers in the back.
Should that person use a proportioning valve at all, or should I...I mean, "that person", use it, and dial it down as far as it'll go?
(Obviously the prop valve would link into the rear brake system only)
I have this set up on my 72 240Z. The front to rear bias is 60% front and 40% rear. A proportioning valve reduces pressure which would make your rear brakes less effective. You absolutely do not need a proportioning valve. So don't install a proportioning valve.
My set up includes a 15/16 in 280ZX MC and a 280Z 9 in. dia. booster. Pads are Carbotech AX6. Car is daily driver. Stops like a stock car.
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Good find!
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Did you put a crush washer under the fitting that connects to the caliper? That may be all you need to do. See picture.
79- 81 280ZX
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Most of the vendors that sell rear upgrade kits also sell the hoses. Google 240z rear brake upgrade etc
https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21m/24-5581
https://zcardepot.com/products/rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit-240z-260z-280z#
https://www.californiadatsun.com/brakes/brake-hoses/
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____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
WARNING
I recommend that you have an experienced mechanic work with you or do the installation. You can kill yourself or others!
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A caliper that is machined for a banjo fitting and will leak if you screw a regular brake line into it. A banjo fitting is sealed by crush washers. Other brake lines have flared fittings that seal mechanically when mated.
You are not plumbing a sink. Never, ever, seal brake lines with any kind of sealant. When properly installed, brake lines seal mechanically.
Replace the line you bought with one that has a banjo fitting on the end that connects to the caliper. Be sure to use fresh crush washers under the banjo fitting each time you remove the hose. You can buy the crush washers at any auto parts store. They are either aluminum or copper.
If you have drained all of the fluid out of the system and the MC, you will have to remove the MC and bench bleed it. Do a search for instructions.
People have trouble bleeding the 280ZX/240SX style calipers. You can remove the caliper, block the pistons from moving, orient the bleeder straight up and also shake the caliper while bleeding the lines and calipers to get all of the air out. Note : if you forget to block the pistons, they will blow out when your helper steps on the pedal and you will be very very very sad.
Be safe!
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The purpose of the Shed was to keep bad information from appearing when searching Hybridz. Did somebody get their feelings hurt?
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What happened to the shed where junk posts went to avoid filling the site with garbage?
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Looks like that kit uses either a 240SX or Maxima calipers.
You could use stock 240SX or Maxima parking brake cable brackets. But why go to that trouble. You paid for a turn-key kit. The person you talked to blew you off.
Other companies sell this same kit: MSA, Silver mine etc.
I have done the Maxima and 240SX caliper swaps and used the 240SX/Maxima hangers (cable brackets) with stock parking brake cable. The only issue was that the hole in the 240SX/Maxima bracket was a little bigger than the 240z cable end so the cable was loose in the hole.
I have also made custom cable brackets. See picture. The end that the cable attaches to is off my 240z. I cut off the cable end of a 240SX bracket and welded the 240Z cable end onto it. So the 240Z cable end fit perfectly into the bracket.
What ever you do don't try to modify the parts they sent you so you can return the kit.
Send the kit back.
If you really want one of these kits try MSA or Silver mine.
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Most of the so called brake upgrades are not upgrades at all. The popular upgrades tend to result in too much front brake bias creating an unbalanced brake system. Many people regret "upgrading" their brakes after discovering that their brake modifications did not improve braking.
Stock brakes are designed as a system. Changing one braking component has an unplanned domino effect on the rest of the system.
I recommend that you you spend a lot of time reading all of the "brake upgrade" posts before making a decision to modify your car. Look at the posts that deal with brake bias.
Well maintained stock brakes are fine for most 240Z applications.
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Welcome.
Useful information:
- Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html
- Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.
- Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.
- Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
- Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
- Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
- Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions
- Search the forums.
- Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs
Links:
https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
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8 minutes ago, zim said:
I think I'll try a new radiator first. Need to stick with one that the fan shroud will fit on it so will probably get a 3 row 'stock style'.
I've played with the mixture, thinking it was running too lean and getting hot. I used to have the timing too advanced so I backed it off but no change. I ran an oil cooler for awhile but that didn't make any difference, except it kept leaking oil.
My prior Z didn't have these issues and I drove it when it was 100+ and this one didn't seem to initially but since it is so seasonal it is hard to remember exactly when it started. I also get vapor lock in this one and never had it in the prior one; and these are the same carbs I was running on it but that is another thread.
I have heard that the heat from radiator repairs can shrink the tube openings through it so maybe the leak repair caused some restriction.
The last time I checked the compression it was okay but I've also wondered if I'm getting a lot of blowby at higher rpms that is heating the engine up.
It doesn't hurt to check all of the variables, but ultimately it comes down to how efficient the radiator is.
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My stock 72 240z did the exact same thing. I did all of the usual checks for : fan clutch, timing, mixture, collapsing water hose at high RPM, thermostat ratings, no thermostat, flow restrictors (in place of thermostat) , water pump, Camaro radiator (marginal) etc. Had some marginal success, but the temps would still creep up.
My brother's brand new 72 240Z over heated at cruise speed!
My take is that the stock cooling system is just undersized.
Your Z gets hot at high speed where air flow is high. The fan and shroud are necessary at low speed stop and go. At speeds above say 30 or 40 mph, air flow through the radiator is adequate to cool the engine. At some point the fan clutch releases and the fan just spins like a windmill. At 60 mph air is moving at 88ft/sec or 5,280 ft/min. Lots of air moving through the radiator. So the problem must be in the radiator, water flow, timing, mixture, belt slippage etc.
Take away: You need a better, higher capacity, radiator, and if using a mechanical fan, make sure that the fan clutch is working. BTW: a mechanical fan is fine.
You might want to try the direct-fit radiator from Arizona Z Car and add a shroud to it if stop and go cause the temps to creep up.. This radiator keeps my SBC 350 240z cool in traffic on 100 deg. days.
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I am following this post. Please update as things progress. I was working on this same approach.
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Welcome.
Useful information:
- Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html
- Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color.
- Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info.
- Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers.
- For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video.
- Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
- Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
- Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions
- Search the forums.
- Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs
Links:
https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html
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1
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47 minutes ago, LooseRocks said:
I don't think T3 has a rear brake solution that will work for 15" wheels. Silvermine has fronts and rears that work for 15" wheels. I'm sure it's the same as Z-car in that only certain 15" or 16" wheels are a fit. I'm not sure if you can get fitment template from either Z-car or Silvermine.
T3 fronts only are $995. No rears for 15.
Silvermine fronts are $685.
Silvermine rears are $685.
Silvermine rears+parking are ~$1100.
Z-car are $3000 for the set + $300 for parking (only 4x114.3)
(cost are from today's date 11/25/19)
T3 is developing a new rear caliper kit that will allow fitting of 15 inch wheels. The kit is being designed to compliment their Micro Big Brake front kit and it will have an integral parking brake. The owner says the rear kit should be out in a month or so.
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Techno Toy Tuning (TTT) has developed a front brake kit that fits under 14inch and 15 inch wheels. No details about the calipers or rotors.
https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/240z-micro-big-brake-kit
I talked to the owner of TTT and he said that they would soon have a similar rear caliper kit that includes an integral parking brake available that will fit under 14 inch and 15 inch wheels.
A Classic Z car member has already installed the TTT front kit.
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62973-new-micro-big-brake-kit/
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What do you mean by stub axle? The part that goes in the side of the differential or the part that goes in the bottom of the strut and connects the half shaft to the wheel flange?
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21 hours ago, Twisted46 said:
I just got around to testing this. The gauge did not move at all.
There is your clue.
The oil pressure sending unit is just a variable resister. If I recall correctly, the sending unit basically grounds the oil pressure gauge (moving the needle) as oil pressure increases.
So, if when the wire to the oil pressure gauge is connected, and the gauge needle goes all the way to full pressure, what does that imply:
- The wire going to the sending unit is shorted out? However, when you removed the wire from the sending unit, the needle did not move. So you can rule this out.
- Or the sending unit is bad.
Another test: while watching the oil gauge, with power on, short the sending wire to ground. What happens? Does the needle move to full pressure? If the needle moves the gauge is ok.
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What year?
MSA has them
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3 hours ago, Jenifer Tai said:
I did this upgrade several months ago and have one minor note to add. I just now removed the cones from the outlets on two 280ZX master cylinders. One of the 280ZX MCs had been on my 240Z with vented Toyota front and 240SX rear brakes for two years. The other 280ZX MC was an old one I purchased to use as a core. The 280ZX has front and rear disk brakes and yet I found residual check valves in the front and rear outlets of both 280ZX master cylinders. Thanks for sharing the nice information.
By cones do you mean the rubber residual check valves or the cone shaped seats the brake pipe seats sits on when mated to the mc?
And yes every 280zx mc I took apart had the rubber residual check valves.
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Re: Holley model number 4150 Street Avenger 570 cfm p/n 0-80570
Goodwrench SBC 350 crate engine
Gathering parts for rebuild due to ragged idle on start up and low speed surging up to 30 mph. High speed cruise and WOT car is still a rocket. Car dyno tuned in 2010. Ran fine for 10 years until about a month ago.
I am researching the replacement part number for the primary metering block should I need one .
The Holley website does not give a p/n for a metering block for the 570cfm carburetor. I found a Holley part number cross reference pdf that lists the metering block for the 570 cfm carburetor as n/s (non serviced).
So if the metering block needs replacing is there another Holley p/n that will work?
World Class T5 from 1992 camaro
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Why do you need to change out the pivot?
Why are you using a 1 inch clutch MC?
I have used T5 transmissions on two 240z SBC swaps. Stock Camaro clutch MCs were used on both cars. The pivots looked a bit worn, but since they were NLA I just kept them. No problems in 20 years.