Willens

Sorry I haven't been around. Jeffer has aptly put it. It's not nearly as technical as attempting to assemble a Garrett GT40, or some ridiculously toleranced race turbo, so no worries. Just make sure you install all parts facing the proper way, and while you're at it, spend the extra few bucks to ditch that 270 degree bronze thrust bearing. Get yourself a 360 degree stainless. If you want to run higher boost, it is absolutely mandatory. -Willens

it's an 82, so I was under the impression that it is only mechanical? Isn't P90A 83? Hell, I really need to learn the S130 jargon. I'm just a Z32 guy trying to revert, haha

An every day example: Think of the impact of horizontal and vertical stabilizers on any jet fighter aircraft, as well as their air canards, for starters. ...Now think of how thrust vectoring works. That is the most dire of examples regarding redirection of turbulent air to create a significant outcome. We may experience it in the 1XXmph range, primarily aimed at downforce, but you'll find that technology is aimed at providing split-second changes at speeds around 500-600mph (sub mach, depending on altitude/barometric pressure,) and even in excess of that. ...Having been raised in the aircraft business, and very familiar with these principles, I would suggest looking to those examples for understanding/functionality/application. Not merely for the fact that we don't all have windtunnels in our garage, but that is the most extreme application of air diversion technology and implementation that exists known to man. Not that we can remotely use thrust vectoring directly in any way, but understanding it's core functions and impacts can break down the first components in minute detail. That means it has to be right one way or another, right?

I need to parse my text, yes, and I've had a few beers, so forgive me, but if a turbo is blown, does it make any sound, specifically? I'm waiting for my turbo books to arrive, so I can stop inquiring about what must be rookie technicalities for most of you. My infinite thanks for your patience and understanding. Thanks again, -Willens

Yeah, the inlet/intake piping gushed out a good half quart of black sludge/oil, which is stifling. Tell me this isn't common, haha PART 2: Flat top N/A pistons in a turbo application? I believe I noted something about an N/A cam as well (see also: crazy talk.) I may not know turbochargers themselves, but I know cams. As a turbo car would desire more overlap, and not such a "hot" lift, how the !@#$ would this be possible? If so, someone please explain. I am weary of the purchase, but the longblock just underwent a fresh rebuild. I am thankful to be part of what seems to be the best Z forum for anything on the web, with the exception of tt.net for Z32 specifics.

Well, the turbo is irrelevant at this point, because some of us know what "valve rattle" sounds like. A common way is running a car with no coolant for too long. Even if it were just the turbo, it wouldn't explain the overall harshness of startup, idle, or even basic engine loads, well under any boost levels. That is what this car experiences. When I get over to the car (it's about 30 minutes away from me, at least,) then I can take a look at compression testing, which I had intended for, and also dreading them, haha ...I'll spare a full symposium, but what this car is experiencing is far beyond a shot turbo. I can just hear the valves screaming/rattling when I start the bitch immediately. If a turbo can recreate that same sound, someone let me know. Turbo is new to me, but I wouldn't imagine such a thing... Thank you for your input.

I bought a Z somewhat "Sight unseen," as it wasn't really stable to drive it, I was told it had a blown turbo. I bought a rebuild kit, figuring it could use it either way (236XXX miles,) and I got to the turbo. The compressor wheel spins freely, so I'm not thinking that constitutes a fried turbo. Anyways, after a short drive, an outrageous amount of smoke poured out, the engine rattled, ran like complete dogsh!t, and after seeing it get worse during shifts, I come to the diagnosis that is more like head damage. I suspect the valve guides/seats are long gone, and probably anything else tied to the valves. Piston rings are probably gone too. Some testing will tell, but I am very disappointed. This is my first attempt at a turbo build, and my knowledge is not yet there on forced induction. It sounded plausible, based on the vague description, yet in all reality, this is far worse. One last thing: Does anyone have a solution for getting around the locking tabs that flush to the turbo flange nuts? I'm guessing you have to take the manifold off and bend them, because I can barely turn a nut half a rotation, and get one tab to bend. Is there any solution to this, or do I really have to take the manifold off? Sounds like I have to in order to remove the head anyways. It's either a rebuild, or considering an aftermarket performance head. Time will tell, and by time, I really mean money. -Willens

Yes, the car runs, though about as healthy as Gary Busey's face. I'm quite frankly scared to drive it, the smoke that pours out of it is insane. My main concern is that on the turbo flange, the bolts have these lips/raised edges surrounding the corners of the bolts. How the @#$% do you get around that? Bear in mind, I'm doing this in a parking lot with nominal tools. You can't see what's going on w/o removing the manifold, just as some of you stated, so I am trying to avoid removing as much as I can, and making this bearable for a parking lot job. I thank all of you for the input, and I look forward to seeing what else some of you have to say. -Willens

Probably a stupid question, but I'm basically a homeless guy with very limited tools, and trying to resource the best way to get this done. It is in a parking lot on jacks. Call me dedicated, call me crazy, makes no difference. I need your help, and I just bought this S130 (1982,) and knew SH-T about them until today, so there's a background on the story. And go...

Follow-up: Recently started to take the turbo off on the Z, it is sitting in a parking lot, and do not have a copious amount of tools or a shop yet, so I'm trying to figure out the best approach. Before I go diving into something unaware, I figured I would ask you if any special tools are necessary, or what approaches you found worked best. I am oblivious to any Z older than a 1990, so this is going to be interesting... The Z has some nasty rattles, they sound like they are turbo related. This is my first go at a turbo car (always been an all-motor guy, sorry to say,) so I'm hoping this project won't be too much, in terms of getting it running, and just stock for now. Thankfully, I have the expertise of a professional builder/plumber/mechanic/wiring guru by the name of Mike across the street, and he's been doing this for a few decades. Unfortunately, he is a domestic guy, so I need any input that you care to contribute. I will also continue to browse the site, but I don't have hours to devote to searching either. Greatly appreciated, -Willens

I ordered a rebuild kit from G Pop over the weekend, and everything seemed fine. I was curious why I hadn't received it yet on the 3 day express shipping, so I called yesterday. Spoke to Jerry, and he was the man. My order got holed up somewhere, and would be considerably late, so he just overnighted me the kit, and I'll have it today. I recently bought an 82 S130 Turbo with a fried turbo, so now I can drive the damned thing this weekend, thanks to Jerry @ G Pop. I heard good things from all of the forums, and received equally impressive service. I would recommend them to anyone! -Willens

I'd agree, there are countless followers of S30/S130, and even Z31, but getting into Z32 territory, you'll find tt.net the place for that. However, I'm with the "weekend special with a few friends" idea. It isn't that difficult, it just takes commitment, patience, and ability to work through it. Having a VG30DETT-savvy friend never hurts. I'm still kicking around my RB26 plans, but the NA has got to go. Building a reliable cheap NA>TT? Doesn't exist. It can either be cheap, or reliable. Take your pick. -McShred

Yeah, the turbo flange's are entirely different as well. ET's love the T3/T04, whilst the stock DET's run T-25's. I own and have owned Z32's constantly, and worked on many Z31's, and MT is pretty much on the money. You can, however, run a 3.3L pathfinder intake setup on the VG30E, and I think it also works on the ET. 240SX TB is a cheap easy upgrade fix, and there are many other parts out there. Gotta love Nissan's "Parts Bin" engineering strategy back in those days...

twinturbo.net hosts some of the most legendary techs in Z32 maintenance, and several writers from ZSport mag. Damn! You all beat me to the information in this thread, haha

I second WigenOut, this is, after all, Hybrid Z, not twinturbo.net. As far as purists are concerned, this is the wrong side of the tracks. This is Greasers turf.

The LS1 swap into a Z32? There is a manual out there for it. Get info on twinturbo.net. It actually goes in like it was made for it, as far as motor swaps are concerned. Now, regarding LS power? If you're looking to build, LS1 entirely. Don't even waste your time building an LS6, unless you're a rich man simply looking for a conversation piece. Twin turbo kits and motor components are rather plentiful for the LS1, not to mention their cheap acquisition (roughly $1000 on EBay, or anywhere else.) Hope this helped.

This is a stellar project. Makes me wish I had recently left OKC! haha

Same here, and I still drive my Z32, though it wasn't nearly as bad as yours. Yours I can guarantee is screwed.

I make it a goal to try and answer a question (correctly) for every question I ask. Too bad guys like BRAAP are the geniuses, and if they had time, I'm sure they'd answer every question, so it's up to everyone to help everyone else out, if possible.

Oh, hey, saw in your sig your donor car is a '90. The 1990/1991 TT engines are somewhat notorious for kinks. If you get a chance/want to go all out for big power, you'll need to convert to 1995 TT PTU harnesses/etc. It's not a bad idea period, as the 95's had a bit more power/reliability. Any 92-94 or 95 motor is preferrable, not that the 90-91's won't get the job done! -Willens

Convertible? Such a hideous thing. Top down from the back It's easily mistaken for a pickup that had drunken sex with a Transformer, and the end result is premature with Fetal Alcohol Syndrome. The Z1 convertible TT is well-executed, no arguing that, but it's still an eyesore. Slicktop's are fantastic track cars, but the 2by2 is still better. That was proven back in the mid-nineties of IMSA racing. In having raced both, the most obvious factor is the hole-shot. Top speed stability was very easily noticed as well. The aesthetical value is (obviously) personal, but I like my women like my cars: Sleek, sexy, curvaceous, and having an ass. --- Again, be ready to wrench/fab a lot of things, and be patient. I recently had a sub-harness fry in my 2by2, and you can expect to pay dearly from Nissan (for anything, really.) Phil also makes another good point: Clutch. ANYTIME you're doing a swap, you're a madman to not address that issue while the drivetrain is separated. Do a basic tune-up as well: Plugs, test the injectors, replace the timing belt, rear main seal, pilot bearing, compression test the motor, if you think the harness/harnesses are failing, make sure to replace those before installing. Replace all rubber lines/hoses, for starters. This will save you a lot of time/money in the long run, and a lot of headache. Think of it as basic insurance... As far as the tips, you're welcome. I've been obsessing/articulating the 2by2 TT swap for years, and decided it's still a possibility, should I not RB it first.

DirtBiker245, You'll need to remove the contents of the TT fuel pump and painstakingly re-house them into the stock 2by2 housing, and it's a pain in the ass. A lot of little "fit n' fab" issues. A good place to look up for help is MWS Motorsport. They have a nice half-hour video showing a lot of the finer points that go with the 2by2 TT conversion, including the fuel pump housing. I had planned that swap into my 2by2 as well, but am selling it to fund my 260Z. When I do get another one, she'll have to get the ol' RB30 I also second his notion of a donor car. I strongly deplore any other route unless you have a lot of time and money, not that's cheap either way, but considerably cheaper nonetheless.

That's far from true; the fact that it's horizontally-opposed is the real factor to it. The unequal length headers serve more to provide the disgusting, low-end grunt they are so well-known for more than as a deciding tone factor. I've heard them with equal length headers, and there was no mistaking it for a Lancer. --- As far as "exotic, high-revving V8's" are concerned, I'm surprised no one has mentioned the greatest one of all yet; that, or somewhere in the hundreds of posts I overlooked it. Anyways, I'll go ahead and give away my secret project idea haha http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2007/07/05/hayabusa-v8-grows-up-28-liter-455bhp/ I've been working on the theoretics of it since the 2.6L came out a few years ago. Now I'm eyeing the 2.8L (gotta love the RB displacements!,) and would like to couple it with a T-88, or hybrid 60's if it were possible for me to fund, and mate with either a Getrag V160, V161, or the 6MT G35 transmission. -- Vh45? I like the VK45 As far as transmissions go, we had one customer that had a VK45DETT in his G35, mated to the same 6 speed transmission, so I know that route is available. - If nothing else, Chevy 327, bang for buck. There are options to take those to 9,000-10,000 rpms. --- Man, I love this forum so much. -Willens

Hot damn that is a beautiful Z... Great wheel/paint option choices. I haven't seen one with the "N1" look yet. Nice work! -Willens

Haha I knew someone would fire back with the rest of it in no time...