bruce83

But they are Stainless Steel and not chrome.

From what I have read they will, as the extra length is behind the back seats.

Here's a website that may help in deciding on wheel and tire fitment. https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-70-14X5ET15&wheel2=225-45-16X8ET19&wheel3=225-55-15X7.5ET15&wheel4=225-45-16X8ET19&wheel5=225-55-15X7.5ET15&wheel6=225-50-16X7.5ET15&fcl=50mm&wcl=30mm&scl=50mm&sr=0mm I have already set it up for you 72' 240Z and the OEM is on the left side and 16x9 with 13 offset on the right. You can change all of the right side amounts to see how they will fit your car and see the tire clearance on non-modified fenders and OEM struts.

I have a stock digital radio (green back lit) in my 280ZX. It has a 5 pin DIN plug inlet on the back for the tape deck. I would like to use my Ipad in my car, but do not like the sound quality of an RF connection. My question is will using a 5 pin DIN to 1/8" phono adapter cord to replace the tape deck work?

If you want to build a garage paint booth right, don't use the clear plastic sheeting from any type of home improvement store, as over-spray paint does not stick to it and if it gets bumped, paint can come loose and fall on the wet paint. A good auto parts store that sells good paint (Dupont, PPG, House of Kolor, ect:), will also have a plastic sheeting that over-spray paint will stick too and not come off. Those box fans in wall with a furnace "vents" (I assume you mean filters right) drawing in fresh air . and paint air out is good, as it does filter out bugs and dust, but air should not blow right on the car, as it will dry paint to fast. Since you will be wearing a good filter mask (one with 2 replaceable filters), rather then cutting 2 holes in your garage for 2 fans to bring air in and take it out. Fill the garages service door opening with furnace filters and then set 2 box fans (blowing out) under the big garage door. Lots of light is a plus and some people wet down the floor, so dust is not blown onto the paint. The HVLP paint gun and 3M non-vented collapsible cup system is the only way to go, as the gun can be turned upside down (great for doing rocker panels). Check out this Youtube video

The worst weld burn I ever got did not even happen when I was wirefeed welding. I was sitting at my welding table at work, TIG welding the insides of these small Stainless Steel boxes and was using a gas lens on the torch, so I could stick the tip of the tungsten out about 3/8". When I quickly laid the torch over my leg, the head of the torch swung into my leg and tungsten went through my jeans and 1/8" into my leg. It took about 2 months to heal and I still have a good sized scar.

Some amount of smoke is part of all types of welding and if it is a big problem (like burning paint next to the weld), set up a 20" box fan, pull the smoke though the fan away from you and toward an open door. Do not point the fan at you, as it blows the smoke into you and can blow away some of the welding gas, giving you a poor weld. A few notes from experience: Welding light burns skin (just like a sunburn, but can get bad}, so cover exposed skin with 30+ suntan lotion. When TIG welding, I just wear short sleeve shirts and suntan lotion, but when MIG welding, I still wear short sleeve shirts, but also wear a set of green colored welding sleeves, as I have found these to be best on a hot day. Do not wear light colored T-shirts (white is worse), unless wearing 30+ suntan lotion on chest and belly, as welding light goes right though them and burns skin. Medium to dark colored shirts work OK. Buy suntan lotion, as the new type of sprays leave an orange colored tint on shirts and it does not wash off. One final note: If a guy tells me he has welded for quite a while, I look at his forearms to see if he has spots on them (white in the summer, as the skin around them is tan). These spots are weld burn scars and everyone that welds gets them sooner or later and the more he welds, the more he has. I have more then I can count and even have a few on my legs.

I was back on that welding gas company's website and the name of the welding gas you need is called "Blueshield 6"

I have welded for well other 30 years and know for a fact, that you are using the wrong welding gas for short arc steel sheet metal welding. According to the website for "ALMIG" welding gas(label on tank in your photos), that gas has 92% to 96% Argon, 1% to 5% oxygen and 3% to 7% carbon dioxide. This type of gas is for "spray arc" welding heavy steel, using high voltage welding machines, larger welding wire size, giving a hotter arc and larger welds. I have also used 95% argon/5% oxygen for the same effect. I now weld sheet metal (MIG & TIG) all the time for work and for MIG, I only use a 110 volt or 240 volt machine, with 0.023" welding wire (the robot and one other machine do use 0.030" wire} and I also use 75% argon/25% carbon dioxide (commonly called 75/25 gas), but in the past I have used 100% carbon dioxide, but it causes a lot more spatter then 75/25. Change gas to 75/25 and your sheet metal welding will get a lot better. Also listen to how your welding sounds when you are welding, because all short arc welding (which your 110 volt machine does) has a "nice even crackling sound". I can actually set any MIG welding close to its final setting by sound.

Here's mine, but still in progress.

Tony is always right, but sometimes a little wrong. When I rebuilt my L28, I used an expanding T-gauge to check all the cylinder bores and found that yes the tops & bottoms were about the same size, but the centers were larger. Then when I took the block into get honed (with a torque plate), the guy told my it was normal, as this were the pistons put the must force on cylinder walls, when the connecting rods moved on and off center. Now on to calipers. The most important thing to do before zeroing any caliper is to wipe off the jaws with your fingers first. This is because if there is dirt on the jaws, you are zeroing the dirt, not caliper's bare jaws.

Tack rag, from an auto parts store that sells paint.

I had someone in Germany hack my PP account for $451 Euros. When I called PP to complain, they said they could fix the problem, but it would take about 3 to 4 weeks. Not wanting over $600 US dollars of my money gone and tied up with PP for up to a month, I went to my bank that i used for my PP account and filed a fraud claim. Not only did they stop PP from getting the money, they redeposited all the money back into my account the next day.

When 3M bought Speedglas, they change from 3 sensors to 2 and I had that same flash problem when the sensors were covered. I could turn up the sensitivity, put when another welder or the robot started welding, my helmet would darken when I needed it to be semi-clear. My new 9100 model has a 3rd sensor and since it is located above the lens in the center (like when Speedglas owned them), I have never had a problem with flash while welding and no other welding effects it either. Another welder and I were both looking for new helmets (we both had older Speedglas). He wanted and got a Miller Elite helmet (for the neat graphics I think), but when the salesman said he would match an online price I found for the 9100 Speedglas (the same price as the Elite), that is what I got. We have own our helmets for about 2 years now and thought I have dropped mine about 5 times (still works fine), after he dropped his the 2nd time, the lens started getting black spots on the edges of the lenses and then it stopped working, he went back to using his old Speedglas, that he took home. I told him to buy a new Miller Elite, use it for a few months, then swap out the lenses and turn it in for warranty.

I TIG and MIG weld for a living and when first started welding in 1973, I used a big window Jackson. For about 25 years now, I have only used SpeedGlas, of which I have owned 5 different models and my last 3 helmets have had adjustable shades from 9 to 13 and are powered by solar cells and batteries. I currently use the new 9100 model and thought the headband looks a bit funny it is the most comfortable I have ever worn. The price is on the high side ($330), but my last one was $400 (I now use it at home). I have seen all the others, but SpeedGlas has the lightest in weight and when you have to wear it all like me, that makes a big difference. I will only own and use SpeedGlas.