Okimoto

I have a HF Helmet. It sucks, really badly. It darkens when I turn a shiny piece the wrong way, it flashes me when I'm balling tungsten, and it has dark and light spots. for observation, its fine though. I've heard that once you use the speedglas, Miller BWE, or optrel, you will chuck the HF out the window. I'm probably going to get a 9002v off IOC on the popular auction site. Everyone seems to like speedglas over optrel, don't know why.

Try 24/36/48 volts. Thats what a forklift/scissorlift/golfcart will run at. These are plentiful in the industrial salvage yards. If you use 2-3 of these controllers in set on the z, i think you can get a good amount of go from it. The issue of charging can be resolved using a mechanical 3 phase converter directly linked to the driveline. you can just leave it running no load until you need it. That will produce more than enough power to charge the battery thru a forklift battery charger. The only issues would be the skill involved in repackaging the components and weight.

I've been thinking about this all day and cant see a reason why not to try it. Instead of water, use hydrogen peroxide. If I'm not mistaken, the water and oxygen will separate when it reaches the combustion chamber due to the extreme heat, which will give the car more oxygen and also the water will cool the combustion chamber. It worked that way in my fish tank. It's just like nitrous oxide, instead of nitrogen and oxygen as the results... you get water and oxygen. That's the best of both worlds. Someone get a rental car and try it. I mean buy a used rental car... yeah... Use direct turbo, no intercooler, one bottle of hydrogen peroxide and a long tube. Squeeze bottle for passing power.

Maybe its a faux rwd car. You know, replace the torsion bar with an axle housing with a gutted diff and weld the driveshaft to the exhaust hanger. Most folks wont hang around long enough to give it a second thought. But wow, a cavalier that doesnt look whimpy.

Build your own hybrid? Electric motor and controller from a forklift, with a small diesel genset? A few batteries to offset peak current?

Congratulations on your find. How did you get the parts home? Carry-on's?

http://www.ecoparts.com/locations.htm - Ecology http://www.pickapart.com/sandiego.html - Pick your part (50% off 10/6-10/9)

I've been thinking for a while about how I want to repair the Z car that I have. see: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=69331 No, I'm not going to send this car to the scrap heap. I'm not going to give up that easily. I checked the car diagonally and its reasonably straight as it sits (on x-y). I know it's going to take a while, but I'm determined to finish this car. Right now, the car sits as-is on jackstands as I am taking some welding classes at the local CC. It doesn't help that my family is in a bind with my dad being terminal. Because of all of this, I'm a bit shorthanded when it comes to allocating time for the hobby that keeps me sane. Given the calamity in my life, I have adjusted my plan accordingly: 7 years, 14-21,000 dollars, all wheel drive. 175-250 a month for a good car isn't that bad all things considered. Items on separate tab: paint and finish body. tools and consumables personal transportation and food. Education. Year one: Learning welding, initial research into suspension geometry, research parts costs, research import rules, tariffs, research engine choice. Continue to strip Z Year 2: Second year welding classes, more research. Trip to japan for funeral, possibly pick out GTR front clip? Year 3: Finish with third year welding classes and possible AWS cert?, more research final teardown and begin build of chassis frame. Begin obtaining parts, hardware. Year 4: Continue building Frame, research Suspension geometry more, start building front end. superimposing unibody on frame. Year 5: Complete frame, begin DOM cage? rebuild engine. rebuild transmission. Research engine management Year 6: Complete frame, begin mockup of engine and trans, fuel cell, etc. Obtain driveshafts, axles, wheels. Year 7: Engine Electrical. Chassis Electrical. Interior. Brakes. Is this even possible? Am i even on the right track? I'd rather you guys quash my dream now than my finding out later on as I get myself into a bind I can't get out of. I'm hoping that as time goes by, I can allocate more time to repairing the Z car. I'm in ok shape financially, so money isn't too much a problem. (I hope it stays that way) What do you guys think? How did you guys plan your build? Are there other threads like this? (I tried searching this forum but didn't come up with anything good)

The 185 is a good choice. Whatever your choice, I highly recommend getting high frequency on the welder. imho, it sure does make aluminum welding alot easier. I frequent these boards: http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/showthread.php?t=21097 Everyone seems to suggest the TA185. I haven't heard anything bad about them yet. There was even a guy on the boards who took his apart, dropped it, broke it and Thermal Arc sent him a new one. That's pretty good service.

I was driving on the 405, stuck in traffic as usual when I saw a brand new SUV being towed on a flatbed. It's slightly smaller than the brand new yukon in front of it. The one thing I noticed about it was that it had some sort of modified suspension system, but maintained stock ride height, with stock wheels. What do you guys think this is for? Do you guys think that this is the 'new thing' that people are going to start doing? As in all-go, no show? Since this place seems to have the most engineering oriented gearheads when it comes to this stuff, I thought I would ask here. [edit] I guess what I mean to say is "what is this car for?"

haha yeah i noticed that too. Don't you wish they would turn all of the computer terminals around the other way and have it so that we the people would enter the parts numbers in at our own free will and tell the parts guys behind the counter what to get? Can you imagine such a thing? It would be nothing short of revolutionary! Imagine getting back those frustrating minutes of your life, while enjoying the liberty of picking the part you know is right so that you can continue your pursuit of happiness working on your car!

Why did we send a man to the moon? Besides the russians, of course. I think it was because we could. There was no profit involved in it. It was a dedicated group of rocket scientists (no pun) who were dedicated to their cause and to show that they could do it. I feel the same way about my Z. I want to keep working on it because I believe I can do it. I believe that a collective effort of all involved here could yield a car that's engineered and built beyond anyones belief. It is to this that I believe that a hybridz car should be built. To showcase the best of the best, to show that we're not a bunch of old datsun freaks driving some dinosaur cars. We the people shall gather and write down what we want to see in this car. The car will be built by the people, for the people and have rules written on a hybridzitution. Such rules can be like the following: 1. Thou shalleth contain within; an alternative method of propulsion. 2. Thine car shall haveth true A-arms for anti-dive purposes. 3. etc etc Essentially, I believe this car should show people all that we have learned from working on these cars and showcase them in such a way as to get the public interest going in them. What do you guys think?

It's weird. the doors fit and closed fine. the panels were a bit out of alignment but workable, and there was obviously an earlier repair attempt. The crack might have been recent (after I got the car), or maybe early, but I don't know. The trans tunnel is weird in a way that the rear transmission mount was thru-bolted using two different kinds of bolts. The bolt holes on the inside were drilled out to provide this. I believe it's because the transmission would not bolt in straight after the accident. I found this out after I saw the holes in the trans tunnel to the transmission mount. The front frame rail seems to be welded on the outside and a small reinforcement welded on the inside. I've read a little bit and am considering a millermatic 175 from a local welding supply store with the 'house special' co2/ar mix. How do you guys take precise measurements? I was thinking about tying a string to the front strut tower and going criss-cross. Should I take the tires off the car? should the car be off the ground for this? How about tolerance? 1/4 inch? I used to be able to tell a 64th of an inch on a blueprint, but this is a really old car. I have the chassis dimensions from this site and am getting the strut to strut tower measurements by using pythagorean theory.

Ok i finally finished cleaning the garage. I got rid of a boatload of stuff and then some. My grandma still made me keep a bunch of crap though. And yes, the baby bouncer is still in the garage. I also came to the realization that I have more tools than i will ever need. I have maybe 8 11mm sockets and one or two tens. that sucks. My whole toolset is like that. Now I can work on the Z.

So here's the story. I finally finished cleaning the garage and started on the Z again. I was peeling away the jute and sound deadening and saw this crack. The metal overlaps 1/16th of an inch. Is this safe to weld up? Some of you might remember the thread in the past where I had some damage to the frame rails. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=69331 that's the link to the pictures. here's a shot of the passenger side subframe area, behind the compression rod mount: I stuck a putty knife in there to show the crack. the crack starts from the hole and extends both ways: Here's a shot of the buckled floorpan which may or may not have anything to do with this: Basically the car seemed to have been hit pretty badly in the front passenger side. The pictures show the floorpan being buckled about an inch up, and a shot from below the car shows the subframe connector off by an inch vertically. My question is: How do I proceed? The Driver's side is fine. Right now, I'm not too sure anymore. The logical thing to do would be to scrap #1661 and buy a chevelle. But the ego thing kicks in. like how some guys dont like asking for directions, i dont want to give up on this car. Giving up on this car would be like saying I don't have the knowledge or availability to this knowledge (you guys) to fix this car. I've done some searches and I haven't seen a thread where there seems to be stress cracks in the trans tunnel. I've seen some threads but most of the threads dont have working pictures anymore either. So, what do you guys think? Lost cause? can this be spot welded without knowing the cause? Should i chop off the floorpan?

try at the slave cylinder. it might be the older adjustable kind with the screw-able pushrod?

A rat ate the original wiring in my Z and made a nest in the heater core. I wouldn't use a painless wiring kit. It's too universal in my opinion. I've installed one before and it works great, but when you have to tie into existing connectors like the windshield wiper, brake lamps, etc... it doesnt seem worth it to me to use their expensive kit. If the kit came with all connectors for the Z wired in, I think it would be worth it... otherwise I would just wire the car myself. Besides, do you really need 18 circuits? Let's say you did. If you're loaded with enough goodies to use all 18, then I'm sure by the time you're done, the harness will be pretty confusing. I'm sure some of them will require relays, be powered on certain ignition positions and not during others, etc. It would be less confusing to wire each circuit by hand so that you can know that each circuit will do their proper function and you can wire relays into it. The good thing about the painless kit was that I really liked the quality of the wire they used.

[edit] First thing, check for voltage at the coil, positive on coil positive and negative on the engine. You should have a few volts at the very least, maybe 6 when the ignition is on the on position. Now have an assistant crank the car. You should have around 10 or so. If you have zero when the ignition is on the on position and 10+/- when the car is cranking, then try checking for voltage on either side of the resistor. If you don't find voltage there, time to start digging under the dash, and also check the fuses. If you get voltage on the resistor, try bypassing it by jumping a wire across it and try again. If the car starts, replace the resistor. If the car doesn't start, hotwire the ignition[coil and such] to be on. Then try to start the car like that. With your symptoms it should start. Now would be a good time to put an anti-theft switch in, on the ignition system.

get this one and put the carbs, etc from yours into it and make a really nice car.: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/car/177742179.html I was going to buy it so i didnt post it here, but it has no visible rust issues. It's SUPER cherry from what i see of the pictures. And it's 800 bucks. And he's going to take a hacksaw to it if you dont buy it. It appears to be local too.

I know what you're talking about, Strotter. I remember as a kid, I was told that it was too smoggy to play outside. We had these smog alert levels, and almost every day it was unhealthy to be outside. But yeah that's all crap. I drive a Z with a bad hatch seal so it doesn't bother me anymore. Who needs to see the mountains anyways. I hardly ever go there, and I don't need to see them to know where I'm going. I don't like california smog laws, but I see that they serve their purpose here in california. I just wish they had a rolling 30 year exemption, not too many people drive 30 year old cars on a daily basis, and I really hate taking my 76 motorhome for a smog every 2 years.

1. Cloud car. I saw it in Mario Brothers, and saw it on Dragonball. It is the ride of gods. 2. 1984 Toyota Van I've always wanted the turbocharged 4wd version. 3. MKII Supra Timeless Classic. I just like the look of this car. 4. Lazy daze One on a chevy 3500 chassis. With fishing gear for when I don't feel like fishing off the cloud car. 5. isuzu invader I've wanted one of these with the diesel. In heaven there are no Z cars. I know that when I die and go to hell, the Z car will be waiting for me there. And I can imagine cars rust faster in hell too.

Considering copper intercooler piping for the Dusen-Z? Yes, fill her up with high grade petrol and we shall party like it's 1923! sorry about that. The first thing that came to mind when I thought of copper in a car are very old cars. But why not consider silver? It has a low melting point, but silver would look even better than copper. Since you're spending the money on copper, it would only be a few bucks more. Plus you can do all the seams with a soldering iron. But yeah, you can use type L or M copper piping. Dip it in some acid and then clearcoat it, I think it would look just awesome. The only thing I would be afraid of is cracking at the leaded joints (if you choose to use solder). The sizing is not a problem, I regularly specify 2 1/2" piping in plumbing. Would you even use regular fittings? Do you need a di-electric union when you hit the intercooler and chassis?

That is one cherry truck. I like how it's a 3/4 (or 1 ton) and looking that good as well. Usually when I see the heavy duty models, they're pretty beat up. sims: Are you considering a diesel? Are you going to be towing 5th wheel?

I know I tried this trick on a car I had before. Well... actually, I was using the lug wrench to find TDC... and I left it in when I cranked the car over. Maybe you can find a lug wrench that fits... wedge it in there good and crank the car over? if ez is correct, then the bolt should come loose.