260DET

To be blunt, some US dyno figures are rubbish, obviously created to make the customer happy. Not to say that this sort of nonsense is confined to the US, it's not. The easiest way to check this is to look at the power outputs of modern sports engines which benefit from decades of development, particularly in their engine management systems. Anyway, I'm over the VG30ET hype, carry on

Mast have not got back to me so stuff them. Subject to fitting, the present idea is to modify the Commodore sump the engine comes with then add trapdoors and all the other trick stuff.

Going to try using the stock GM manifolds as supplied with the engine, this project is going to be as stock as possible. Thing is with these engines 'stock' covers a lot of possibilities

Mast gives good clearance at the front over my X member and PS rack and is otherwise suitable, but to cover all possibilities are there any cast alternatives other than the Holley Retro? Want to use a cast item as it adds to the stiffness of the engine block. Thanks for any tips.

Thanks heavy, will keep your advice in mind. LS3's are available so will go with one of those, trying to nail down a good price at the moment. Am going to run a wet sump with Accusump, never had oil pressure problems with the VG30DET (Z32 sump) so can't see why an appropriate wet setup should not be OK on the LS. Big slicks may be different.

This is all on the backburner now, bloody engine problems again so the whole lot is coming out and being dumped. LS3 and a TKO600 going in. Plus something else is going to add to the delay, no real problem, just a 'temporary' situation.

The advice I've received is that the LS1,2 and 6 use 243 cathedral port heads which give the best results when ported. The L98 which is readily available here as a crate engine has square port heads which flow well stock but don't port that well. There is not much choice here with LS's unless I go with much more expensive 'racing' crate engines of various types.

Does anyone know of an adapter available for this conversion? A six speed like the heavy TR6060 is not required, what would be ideal is a five speed with say a .85 fifth gear. Keeping the $ in mind, a T5 derivative or even a Z32 five speed should suit but how to fit and have the right clutch etc is the problem. EDIT; the local advice is that a T5 won't handle say 400whp and that a TKO600 would be a better more durable choice.

That 2006 Pontiac engine would also be known as a L98? If so it's the locally available one I've been advised to get. Thanks for the LS1tech.com tip guys.

Best bang for buckest smallest capacity NA engine available. Preferably on stock internals so the engine does not have to be opened. Exhaust manifolds may be a bit cramped in a 280ZX and the exhaust will have to exit at the rear and use a modest muffler but otherwise no external restrictions. Will be using a TR6060 gearbox if that is relevant. Links to reliable sites would be good too, I know nothing about these engines so edumacate me

Unfortunately this car crashed at Bathurst and was written off, driver OK though. Heard nothing more since.

Yes Sideways, absolutely. Once the idea that 'what goes in has to come out' is understood the rest is easy. High pressure inlet, low pressure exit. Of course the execution has to work accordingly.

Sounds interesting, anyone got it?

Seems like my previous was a bit ambiguous Jon, I agree with your observations and particularly with venting engine bay air so that air is not forced under the car. Like a lot of aero though it's best to design a device by taking into account the whole situation. So eg engine bay vents plus undertray plus spoiler plus splitter should be designed as a whole, which is basically the point I was trying to get across. On splitters in particular, they are best assessed, like most other aero devices, as a whole together with all other relevant aero devices. Depending on their design and the whole of the relevant aero, they can assist in reducing air flow under the car. In my opinion, there is nothing in eg McBeath, that indicates otherwise as far as I can see..

A splitter by itself is not a complete aero device so therefore the effect of using one is impossible to gauge without proper testing. Physically a splitter should be the front edge of an undertray which should extend back to the front X member, at least. The whole idea is to prevent air from the engine bay going underneath the car so lifting it up at speed. With that setup a splitter will work.

The supplier makes wing elements to order using the various profile moulds he has. The end user makes the mounts and end plates. As my supports will not go on the ends, the element will be drilled and tapped underneath where there is a moulded in aluminium member for that purpose. Will know more when it arrives.

Me and my big mouth The VG30DET setup was custom made except for the chopper wheel which was a US made item, for a L6 I think. Magnetic not Hall effect crank sensor used together with the stock Nissan camshaft sensor. Which info is probably not much of a help for your setup but I guess that you have already picked up something off shelf.

Main element has been ordered, should be able to finish it all before the Bathurst/Mount Panorama adventure over Easter. Z should be capable of 250kph or more down Conrod Straight, aero will be tested if the wussy driver does not lift off going through Caltex Chase. It's called backing yourself so they say

Very worth while doing a search here too, lots of aero orientated mods and tricks have been done and discussed, including modding the grille area to better control and direct airflow. Love the NACA duct idea ^, much better than relying on random airflow. That demonstrates the basic concept when doing aero mods, to control and direct airflow for specific purposes

Depending on wether cooling air is needed for the gearbox and diff, aero wise the less air that goes under the car the better. Both for drag and vertical force reasons. The inspection lid openings are nowhere big enough to vent sufficient air, to get an idea of the size required have a look at those factory cars which vent the bonnet just behind the radiator position. As for diffusers, that Z I posted a video of at Phillip Island has front and rear diffusers, it's lap times indicate that the aero on that car works very well.

Decided to go ahead with a main element from the profile above. Cut templates out of cardboard of that element and the two secondaries I have to see how they look together, particularly concerning the gap shape. That and the overall shape of two profiles together to get a nice sweeping curve underneath. The secondaries are smaller than the two thirds rule allows but they are what I have and they do combine well. Probably use the fatter of the two secondaries available but that decision can wait until the main element arrives in a few weeks. Like doing this sort of stuff rather than buying off the shelf, when time and talent allows

To keep this DIY I'm pretty limited as to what main profiles are available. The profile below is different to the one in McBeath's book and to the Eppler 423 but I'm thinking it may work well with the second elements that are available to me. Without the Gurney of course.

To keep this DIY I'm pretty limited as to what main profiles are available. The profile below is different to the one in McBeath's book and to the Eppler 423 but I'm thinking it may work well with the second elements that are available to me. Without the Gurney of course.

Moving right along, pic below of the two second elements that I have, which one would be best? Had a look at the Eppler 423 Cary, yes.

Yes, I'm familiar with the twin setup in McBeath's book and am presently chasing similar off the shelf elements. Will look at those profiles thanks Cary. There is a profile available which the maker says is off a Porsche GT3 which means nothing to me, anyone have any ideas about it? If there was time available then I'd get foam elements of my choice cut and go from there, fiberglass or CF wrapped.