260DET

Going in a straight line then drop it down with some rake as John suggested.

By all means visit UnZud, just keep away from the sheep or risk upsetting the locals

Yep, before the engine stand and the engine crane are used my garage floor is swept clean, even small things like clipped cable ties can cause problems. For most of us occasional users it's just not worth getting premium gear when with a bit of care (hi Frank) the medium range budget stuff does the job. Thanks for the reminder though, it's easy to forget that non pro gear is cheaper for a reason.

Top time attack aero is worth looking at, some incredible stuff around. Basically for a splitter the bigger the better with the proviso that it should be practical and make sense in relation to the car and the law of diminishing returns as far as size goes.

If you decide against the L28 then consider a LSx, I'm putting a LS3 into my 280ZX right now and the only sort of problem is the exhaust system on the driver's side getting tangled up with the steering shaft. Way better than an antique VG30ET, more power without the expense and trouble involved with a turbocharger. Been there..........

I do both. But weight distribution figures would be interesting.

Do it properly and put a TT crank and oil pump in it, like I did. To handle all that huge power you make

Don't know but from that angle it looks like it suits the cars lines great, better than any others and I have seen lots.

Lighter/heavier replacement springs by themselves should not be expensive if you can find a spring place who can reset them. As for shocks, try and go with a recognised sports brand like Koni or Bilstein or else just get stock type replacements.

So the deliberate arrangement whereby HybridZ is effectively isolated from the rest of the Z enthusiast forum world is going continue, for no apparent reason other than perhaps a overinflated ego or two is perhaps involved. Or is it just plain obstinate bastardry? Pathetic anyway.

This has been the situation forever, no linking either. About time it was fixed, it's hardly been a secret, I wouldn't bother but these faults are detrimental to this exceptional site which used to be the best depositary of accessible Z car knowledge and discussion. To head off the 'it must be your system' excuse, no problem with five other forums so back to you.

Link to the build, well I tried. This grate sight needs a proper host that does common practice stuff

Am a bit rusty* on S30's but for the S130 the filter is going where the op's second 90 degree bend is located. Probably semi enclose it inside the engine bay, cool air feed through the hole in the radiator support panel. If the filter could be mounted there in a S30 it should be better, fewer bends and not picking up hot air from the radiator too. * unintended pun, really

This is not a "Ultimate IRS Swap for S30's" as I know it, irrespective of it's benefits it's not an ultimate IRS, for a circuit car anyway. Try replacing the entire rear end with a double wishbone setup and go from there if 'ultimate' is the goal. I got over car hype talk a long time ago

On mine the valve cover vent hoses will go into the catch can along with the new DIY crankcase vent hose. Don't want to be adding oil fumes to the combustion chamber fuel air mix. Catch can is pretty big and will get drained occasionally, with the VG engine only rubbish liquid ended up there anyway.

Decided to stick with the GM Performance sump which will be modified to incorporate kick outs both sides. As for the oil drain down, it is all worked out and will incorporate a large cylindrical fuel filter canister that will take -10 AN fittings both ends and, instead of a filter element, will contain stainless steel scrubbing pads to help prevent too much oil ending up in the catch can. That's all that will be done until the cam is changed when there will be the opportunity to look at the valley area to see what can be done there. Am determined that any potential oiling problem will be taken care of while still retaining a wet sump. Engine may end up looking like an octopus what with all the external oil drain and vent lines

Yes, that seems to be the situation with these engines Cary, at the moment I'm thinking that a Holley oil pan with a stock windage tray and Improved Racing scraper and baffle kit may be a better option than modding the GM muscle car pan I already have. Hopefully the oil pickup tube that comes with that pan has smoother bends. Incidentally the tube diameter is about the same as a three liter Nissan VG engine's pickup.

Must comment on the terrible GM oil pickup supplied, the bends look like they have been done with a hammer and would no doubt impede oil flow. Quite happy to complain direct to GM but how to do that?

Am going ahead with the crankcase vent idea, now have a truck sourced filtered cap and a separate precipitator which is basically a large all metal fuel demountable filter I got off Ebay. The GM Performance sump has arrived, it will be modded to accept the vent outlet of course and it's oil capacity improved by adding a 'bulge' on the left side. I guess that this sump was designed to fit in somewhere but it's bowl is poorly designed as to capacity and shape so that has to be fixed. It comes with a windage tray which is good but no scraper. Improved Racing offer one, will check that out. As is obvious this is not going to be a dry sump job and for that reason the alternative has to be designed and done as effectively as possible. LSx's are great for the range of 'off the shelf' bits and pieces available. Which often make sense as a complete fix. But not always.

Oil accumulating in the valley seems to be another push rod V8 thing, neither this nor venting seem to have gained a lot of attention. At LSX forum level anyway.

Phill is getting this creation back in shape, started with a new body. He has given me a few tips on plugging an LS into a RHD S130

Given the wet sump engine lubrication problems that seem to be common even with a full house baffled, trapdoored, scraped and so forth sump, I'm wondering why. Is a V8 thing, two cylinder heads and not at 90 degrees to the desired drain down route? RB engines need an added gravity or pumped head oil drain setup to race with a wet sump, the original L engine seemed to race OK with nothing more than a full house wet sump. What I'm thinking is the LS problem is partly to do with blowby pressure from the sump area tending to counter gravity in the control of oil movement from the heads as it heads towards the valve cover vents. So, back to the past, one big vent coming out of the side of the sump connected to a catch can and block off the valve cover vents. Who has tried this, does it help?

LS3 arrived, it has a Commodore rear sump which would be a bit deeper than the GM Motorsport one I guess. Anyway a few mods are no problem, the whole car is one big mod.

Decided to go with a GM Motorsport wet sump kit, it should fit but can be modded if necessary. It will have to be anyway to connect the Accusump and oil cooler. Selling points, aside from the fit, were price and the fact that it will bolt to the bell housing for added stiffness, something which the aftermarket ignores.

About 20 years ago when I first got into Zeds took some pics of a variety of S30's doing circuit laps. Once it was noticed, the difference between those which had just front air dams and those which did not was obvious. The air dammed ones stayed fairly level on the track, the naked ones were nose high, they actually lifted up front at speed quite noticeably. That revelation began the quest for best Z aero.