260DET

Ahh, I must have misread Hoosier's info about the A6's which I thought indicated their operating temp was lower. Which made me think they could be more suitable for 4-5 minute runs than the usual semi.

Yeh there are a few possible alternatives, Hankook advertise several different compound choices which is interesting. But with the A6's, it's surprising to hear they are being used for 30 minutes nonstop without overheating and going off, given they work at lower temps than most others including the R6.

For say 4-5 minutes of circuit racing, are the A6's worth considering? Present tyres are Nitto NTO1's which are fine but as usual with semi slicks in my experience take a lap or two to heat up. Other than RA1's which are obsolete I don't know of anything else which may suit my driving style and suspension, both of which seem to be tyre friendly. I assume that the A6 may not have the ultimate grip of the R6 but horses for courses applies here.

Ah, those plates, cool.

See post #5 and follow links. DE pump flows more and is 100% reliable at high revs.

Having thought about this what I think will work is to adjust the timing to get the same number of degrees at say .050" lift both sides of the lobe center position, 106 degrees ATDC for the inlet.

Here is a thread on JWT's L series cam, some 'interesting' comments http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/13793-jwt-has-l-series-turbo-cam/

As you can see, the advertised duration of the S2 cam on the left is 266 degrees, .050" is 221. The rest of the specs appear to refer to advertised degrees, not .050", so I'm at a loss as to how to time the cams using the more accurate .050" standard. Solution? Yeh they are VG30E cams but all the knowledge is here and I think JWT do the same cams for L engines too.

Yeh look I don't want to knock what you are trying to do but measuring toe with a tape measure is not accurate enough, for me anyway. Its a lot better than nothing that's for sure, sort of OK for a daily driver, but...........

Engine is back built, yay basically the bottom end has been done and the heads fitted. With me to do the rest. Engine pic shows one custom adjustable cam wheel fitted, magnetic ignition sensor mounted behind the L cam wheeel location and the VG30DE oil pump. Other pics show a close up of the ignition sensor and the back of the L cam wheel featuring the trigger for the ignition sensor.

Has the suspension alignment been checked properly? Because looks can be deceiving.

Toe needs to be measured as well otherwise any alignment is incomplete. How is it proposed to do that?

Try searching, I'm sure that this has been discussed before not that long ago.

Mine uses the standard VG30ET exhaust manifolds with a GT35R turbo but the left chassis rail had to be modified to clear the turbo. So a front mounted turbo makes a lot of sense here, I didn't do that because it puts more weight up front which is not good for the balance of a circuit car.

Once the PS rack is mounted in place all that is needed then is a PS pump to run it. What's the problem? You are going into custom made brackets and stuff but basically it's very simple.

If it's anyone it would be Mortensen

Cheapest way would be to try different clutch MC and slave cylinders. If there is still a problem then it's gearbox out time.

From what I hear dual mass flywheels are a PITA and if you could fit one to a VG30DETT would require a complete engine rebalance. There are reasonably priced off the shelf flywheels around eg mine is a one piece chromolly one, that work well.

What follows may or may not be relevant here but it's something that noone in the US seems to do, or at least talk about. And which I keep forgetting to mention. Which is welding a bridge across from the lower inside part of the front strut tube to the upper top part of the front stub axle forging/casting. A friend of mine races nationally and has proven this works with his historic 280Z, allowing a reduction in static front camber and dramatically reducing front wheel lateral movement under severe cornering loads. Probably more applicable to circuit racing but its a cheap and easy mod.

Finally realised this is the relevant wheel lifting video, duh.

After doing a bit more research and brain exercise, my conclusion is that vortex generators could be beneficial on an undertray to counter any airflow disattachment or to direct airflow, although strakes or ducting would be more effective for the latter purpose. As the new undertray is basically flat and level it's unlikely that there will be any airflow disattachment so it's been decided not to use them. While the core of a vortex is low pressure I think any low pressure effect from that source would be very small and could be countered by increased drag and consequential slowing of the undercar airflow. For an amateur with no testing facility I think it's best to use those aero devices and techniques which are predictable in use.

I's all relative though, even getting 'drunk' on soft drink

If it's comfortable the dampers must be right so well done. My 'drive on the road circuit car' has 400 pound springs on the front but because the dampers are right the ride is quite reasonable, no jarring or bouncing.

Member's project section seems like a good place, I was wondering why a diff conversion was in the V6 section

Criticism is best left to others