Kinked_Chrome

I don't want to build a super high HP turbo and have to run high octane fuel (might be cool, but not for me). I'm just looking to pump up my lt1 a little bit, with out a buying a SC kit or building a stroker. I buddy of mine put together a turbo kit for his TPI for relatively cheap. The catch is that his TPI was built tough and could handle pretty much anything he throw's at it. I'm looking to boost mine about 6-10 (or more if I can) with an I/C and upgraded Fuel, PCM, etc. I just want to know if the bottom end can handle it to drive the car daily, or if I should look into building it tougher.

I was thinking of turbocharging my LT1 Z. This is really only an idea, not likely to happen (but that's what i thought about an lt1 in a Z ). I'm not worried about piping, fuel, ign, etc. at this point, I just want to know how much power a bone stock lt1 can handle reliable, before i start melting holes in pistings, pinging, or whatever.

Being one of the "impressionable youth" (17 and a senior in highschool) and eager to drive fast, spin the tires, fish tail, and otherwise drive the hell out my LT1 260 (which is running successfully, only being held up by the brakes), I have been eagerly watching this thread with great interest. Especially since I'm taking US Government this year. I've put year of blood and sweat into my car, researching, wrenching, and what not. I can't say that i will drive it responsibly, as that is very subjective, but i know that I won't drive wrecklessly. I have put way to much effort into that car to do so. While I may not know all about every driver technique, i know a lot about driving. Such as apex's, limit of adhesion, and other little things. I fully understand where Kevin is coming from, as all of my tickets have certainly been quite subjective. If I had known better I could have easily gone to court and gotten out of them. Unfortunatley I have had my license suspended twice. Makes me sound like quite the stereotypical teenage driver, and I can already here someone thinking "well, serves you right". The citations were as follows: 2 for speeding in a school zone (34 in a 20 which was a 4 lane road, and 31 in a 20), one for following too close (I was in a wreck, i later found out the driver in front of me was gawking (sp?) at some girls I know, and the last for failing to come to a complete stop at a 4 way. Three of which I was all by myself on the road, except for the officer of course. I think that it is perfectly fair for you "old timers" (no offense implied) to stereotype teenage driving and behavior because I fully understand where you guys are coming from. I just want everyone to know that there are a few teens that respect what they have and know how to drive it and when the line is crossed. I also think that Aviatorx should have a little more faith in his kid, because if has put a fraction of the work in I have in my car, then he will value and respect highly. Anyway, please don't delete this thread, it was been kicking over a lot of rocks in my little teenage mind. Kevin Sing

well first of all i'm in the same boat you are. In school and short on cash. I'm a senior in highschool this year. I have about $3000 into the car. The major purchases are $600 for the running car, $1500 for the motor and tranny (50,000 miles, all wiring and PCM and shipped), $170 for my driveshaft, $200 for all new bushings, $200 in brake upgrades (junk yard stuff), and the rest is in other misc. stuff (radiator, fan, fuel pumpetc.). I saved a lot of money fabricating my own stuff and taking advantage of small junkyards who think they rip you off, but in reality i get the good deal. I was also very patient when shopping, waiting for a good deal and it worked out quit nicely. Check out my website to see some pics of my car...they are outdated by about 5 months though...but it will give you a little idea of some things. Good Luck!

Due to the content of the site most guys will probably recomend the SBC (LT1 in your case), i'm the same. In my eyes (since i know nothing about the sr20) the lt1 would be easier and more cost effective for the power. 90% of the JTR still applies to the LT1, thus making it much easier on you. There are some things that you may find difficult with the LT1 (wiring, fuel, pulleys) and some easier (no hood latch mod, ease of FI, etc.) Anyways good luck on your project.

Igor, I'm in the same boat as you. 17 and hardly any money. Though I have manage to put together an LT1 260z for about $3000. This includes the cost of the car, drivetrain, and my big brakes (which haven't been installed yet). I paid $600 for my 260 (running well and even had a set of webers on it), $1500 for the LT1 and 4l60e shipped to a near by big city, and the rest is the little stuff (new bushings, tie rods, driveshaft, etc.) I saved a ton of money by fabricating my own parts. I paid 35 bucks for 400lbs of scrap steel that I used build all the mounts, brackets, tranny cross member, etc. and still had tons left over for the little custom stuff that I ran into, then some for a friends motor swap, and I still have some around. That saves about $300 right their. My autotech teachers was a big help to. He had tons of hookups for me, not to mention the afters hours he let me stay in the shop. Selling stuff you don't need off of your Z helps to pay for some stuff aswell. Don't forget to get the JTR manual, that is the most important step, and then memorize it. Any way good luck buddy.

My LT1 260 is almost ready to hit the streets.....just need to put the fuel tank back and hook up the pump and lines. I bought a junk yard motor and it came with the plastic lines. They hook up the the rail fine, but how to I hook them up to my filter, pump..and then gas tank? Should I get different lines? Thanks for any help.

I tend to agree with pete. Being a "ricer" is more of an attitude than anything these days. I see plenty of imports that have a lot of wrench time in them, and it shows; but there is no way to tell by seeing the outside. Marking peoples cars with banners is bull, there is no way of judging a car without talking to the owner or seeing under the hood, inside, etc. I bash on rice all the time, but I keep an open mind. Most of the suspected "rice" owners that I know are actually pretty cool guys....eerrr girls in some cases (most are just ill-educated).... some even admit to having slow(er) rides and talk about getting real mods or different cars. Anyway, bash on rice all you want, but say it to their face instead of leaving some gay banner on there car.

knew that was coming before i even opened the page...after scotty's other little trick . So I told my brother to do it before i fell for it. I thought he soiled his pants.

hey Ross I bought some Z32 to wheels for my '74. As I expected....they don't fit. I don't have coil overs. and according to my measurements I need 1" spacers all the way around. For the rear, I was curious if you had (or can make) an adapter to go to 5x4.5 from the Z pattern (4x4.5 right?) and include the 1" spacing. And 'bout a price for the 1" for the front.

All joking aside, how can a person market something like this? This is a serious case of false advertising, but I think his disclaimer is "The main drawback to "atmospheric supercharging" is its very strong tendency to "shut-off" if you make a single mistake anywhere along the line. Therefore, you must know exactly what you are doing every step of the way or it will not work.". We should nail him, and sue him, then all buy new parts for our cars

That's odd, the pass. side is the only side that I was able to bolt up on my LT1 260, I found that the driver side interfers with the steering shaft. Although it looks like it could be angle milled to fit.

I was talking to a poser kid about his 2nd Gen Rx-7. Said he rebilt it. I asked him if he replace the pistons while he was at it. He naturally said "Hell yeah, you think I'm stupid!?!?!". I later found he had an aftermarket camshaft and stainless valves. I told him that he must have on fast ride.

After recently taking High school physics and learning about forces and friction, I was also curious as to why wider tires help for traction. As many of you have pointed out, in the equation: friction force = coefficient of friction x normal force, surface area has no role. Lots of you are probably familiar with Fred Puhn's book "How to make your car handle". He address this in the beganning of the book when defining slip angles and limit of adhestion. He loosely defines this mystery of why wider tires help as "grip". Or the fact that the rubber on the tire interlocks with the road surface, more rubber touching, more interlock. Which is also why the tire compound makes such a large difference as scotty described, sticky tires "interlock" better with the road surface than a regular radial. Unfortunately there is no magic formula given in his book to find optimal tire size.

the LT4 is still a sbc, similar to the LT1. The LT5 is the quad cam beast, very spendy

I'm only 16 as well with my LT1 260 about a month away from finish. Even here in little old Idaho there is a huge rice scene. One kid at my school drives a '90 something Geo Storm. He thinks it some pretty hot **** . Huge banner on his hood that aggresively says "STORM" another that says "Geo Racing" as well as the japanese lettering (covering his tail lights), and all the other typical rice stuff. When I first say his car I started laughing hysterically, he promptly pulls up next to me and says "YOU GOT SOMETHIN' YOU WANNA SAY??!!". I told that I thougt it was funny than **** how he races a Geo. Then he quickly drove off. Every day leaving the parking lot he smokes his tires, as much as he can, usually lasting 5 or 6 feet with his clutch screaming for mercy. When my car is done I'm going to wait for him to walk out of the school right where he can see me, then continue to do a massive smoking burnout from one end of the parking lot to the other; show him what real power is. Funny how most of the kids around don't realize what motor is going in, when they ask I tell them "it's out of a mid 90's buick" (ala LT1 Buick Roadmaster). They then off course ask how fast it's going to be I tell them "not that fast you'll probably beat me, look how old the car is". They are all so clueless I have to mess with them. I also tell people my alternater is a supercharger, new muffler bearings, etc. They just nod there heads and pretend like they already know, and that I'm pointin out the obvious; the irony just kills me. Granted there are some other real hot rodder at my school, most have fox bodies and are hot headed. They'll be in for quite a surprise when I'm finished.........

I'm a junior.... in high school

Sorry the one on the top is so big. here's another

here are the pics of before and after LT1 installation. Before..... After Homemade JTR style After I fixed the rust hole in the engine compartment I coated it with POR-15, turned out a lot more glossy than i thought it would, but at least it won't rust anymore. please tell me if the pics don't work.

for now i'm running a 4l60e, later when more funds are available i'm going to upgrade to a t56.

Tim, I am modifying the wiring harness myself, with the help of some very extensive wiring diagrams from a Mithcell DVD Shop manual. I can email you copies if you like both manifolds appeared to fit, but like I said I haven't bolted them up. As for the radiator I'm going with an aluminum Griffin. Is you '94 camaro an auto? I think that the extra two tubes are for the tranny cooler. Davy, my only rival will be a couple kids that are into fox body mustangs, one of which has a GT40 crate motor. Anyways pics should be in tomarrow.

Fits like a dream. Stock balancer clears , no hood latch modification , and the stock exhaust manifolds clear (or appear to, i have not actually bolted them in yet). I should have some pictures tomarrow if my high school will let me barrow a digital camera. All I need now is a radiator, fuel pump, the AKM cable, and a few misc suspension stuff; then she's ready to roll.

I don't want to rain on anyones parade, but in the JTR manual it says the ZF-6 will not fit, at least easily. Dewzonal has some pics of it and probably some more info.

you could always use a helicoil thread insert to stay with the original bolt size.

I tried to talk myself out of 17inch Cobra R's, but you have me sunk. would you be terribly offended if I got the same flair/wheel combo? Your car is so beautiful, i'm still laughing because it's so trick.