Kinked_Chrome

A buddy of mine just bought a Ram Jet 350 for his highly modded jeep, after he found that the LT1 he bought off ebay was siezed. It supposedly had 20,000 miles on it and was ready to run, but when we had to break a piston to dissemble it we questioned those facts. Anyway the Ramjet now hanging right next to my 260 at the schools shop Maybe i'll put it in my car when he's not looking They are very cool and very simple, I was really impressed. I was quite surprised when I found out that our local GM Dealership had 3 of them in stock.

Wow, thanks for the great pics Dewzenol Those really help. The route I was going to go was just to send my ECM to a speedshop and let them reprogram it, though I really like the idea of me being able to change anything that I want, even if it is more money upfront My auto teacher said that he knew of a place that could do it for ~$150, but its not a big concern right now so I didn't ask more about it, I'll find out tomarrow.

The only problems that I am running into are, right balancer size (stock is 8 inch). I believe one off a Vette can be used, does anybody know for sure? The other roadblock is getting the computer sent off to have the theft deterent removed, power steering, smog, etc, so the computer does not get error codes for the accessories you don't use. Does anybody know a way around that? You will probably need a new fuel pump to supply the FI. All wiring is very straight forward, nothing to worry about. If it weren't for that balancer I would have my LT1 in my 260.

I remember a while ago I would always tell people how cool the Hennessy TT Viper as a freshmen (just starting my gearhead days) and how I would give anything for one, it was my favorite car by far, that guy was basically my hero . To me there was nothing else that compared. In fact I planned to get rich, just to buy one. Guess I'll have to build my own Last summer the only cars that I wanted were a V8 Z (getting there) and Hennessy Viper. Now I'm going to have to find a new favorite car, this could take years. It's unreal how aggrevating it is to find out that someone I 'respected' and bragged about so much turns out to be scumbag

I bought an LT1 and 4l60e off ebay for $1350, complete with everything, including ECM, wiring harness and even a radiator . It's out of an Impala SS with 62K miles. I was going to do the 5.0 conversion, but a buddy of mine bought an LT1 for his jeep and inspired me. Now it's time to find a T56 and get rid of that 4l60e, anyone interested in buying one? My swap should be finished by June 1st. My suspension needs to be but back together and the rust is going to get fixed The only question i have is with the harmonic balancer, the smallest listed in jeg's is 7 1/2", JTR says i need 7 1/4". Should i keep searching, just build the mounts to clear the stock balancer (not sure what size), or can i mount it so far back to not worry about it. Thanks

Thanks for the help guys. I got everything out with no damage and all the c-arms are ready to go into the oven Time to order coil overs and put my suspension back together

So there are two sleeves for the stock bushings, and only one for the MSA bushings? Just making sure before i start pressing things with the 40 ton hydralic press that my high school convienently has

I pressed out the bushings and "inner" collar on the front control arms. I put up the msa bushing to it, and it looks like it would be an awfully tight fit, though after more inspection, it looks as if there is an "outer" collar that could be removed to provide a better fit. Are the bushings going to be a really tight fit, or do i need to press out that other sleeve? Also, am i suppose to lube them?

thanks for the help guys, i just wanted to make sure i could get things back together before i start drilling through things. I'll try to post some pics to show you exactly what i'm talking about.

The Structral piece that the front pass. strut tower bolts to has a fair amount of rust on it. It is connected to the body with either tack welds, or rivets, i can't tell. Can i simply drill those out, remove it, then cut off/fix rust, then rivet them back into place? The part that makes this complicated is that there is some rust that overlaps onto it from the engine compartment that also needs to be fixed. Thanks Kevin

be sure to check the hiefinuphinator. You may also want to consider a large windshield banner, beware, it can be stressful on the motor. With all that power from the banner, you should also get 30" wheels to help with the new traction problem. Leaving the windshield wipers in the middle of you windshield reduces drag coefficient for those high mph blasts

Whats the link for the pics and your brake/suspension stuff? Thanks

That's Steve Grebeck and Steve Halpin's car. Raced in the Pro 5.0 class of the NMRA. Run's consistent high 6's (6.7 range), weighing in at 2950 lbs for the NMRA. The block is based on a FRPP 351W, punched to 375ci.

I bought some '88 toyo calipers a few days ago. How do I clean them without ruining anything. This seems kind of trivial, but I would want to ruin the calipers because of some stupid little thing. I would like them to look nice behind a 17" wheel. Also, should I rebuild them? If so, where can I buy a kit or something. And one last thing. Is the '84 turbo caliper and hub work with cobra r's. Both are 5x4.5 right? Thanks for any replies.

my highschool has a GTech, and i'm about to do the toyo with vented rotor upgrade. I'll see if I can get some numbers before the snow comes. I also had a question about the swap. Will the '84 turbo rotor and hub bolt-on for an easy upgrade to 5-lug? If not how do I go about changing to 5 lug bolt pattern.

I just picked up a set of the bolt-on offset '81 maxima brackets. I could not believe that they had them, as I thought they were impossible to find. Before i left the yard i pulled off the rear caliper on a '90 300ZX (Z32, right?), but the bolt pattern was different. I thought that I had read in the archives that the Z32 caliper would bolt on to it. Do i have the right bracket? Wrong caliper? Wrong everything? If the Z32 stuff does not fit at all, what are my other options? Thanks for any help.

ahhh, i guess I forgot about the small fact that Honda's are FWD

If your going to put a little motor in, might as well make it the 3 cylinder 1.0L motor from the geo metro's. Then tune it to get 60-70mpg maybe more. It would be the best looking econo-box out there, you could challenge ricer's to economy runs, and still be able to beat them off the line. Has anyboby mentioned the Honda DOHC VTEC motors yet? I just skimmed through the thread, and didn't see it. VTEC motors can also make a great deal of power N/A or turbo. I'm guessing that they would be easiest to come by, and possibly the cheapest to build; and then still run with the other power house 4 bangers.

Hello guys, My '74 260 I believe has the R180. I am working on the sb-ford conversion and only plan to make around 300HP. Hopefully more in the future. Anyway the tranny I'll be using is a Top Loader (4 speed I believe), what's the best rearend to use? I'm also willing to spend the extra buck for good gears and an LSD. The local boneyard has a N/A Z32, a Turbo Z31(it's white, but I'm not sure if it's the SSE), and numerous 280ZX's(both turbo and N/A). They want $800 for the entire rearend on the Z32, not sure on the prices for the others. I'm also looking for simplicity in the installation if possible, but I'll do the custom work for something that will last longer and perform better.