Kinked_Chrome

You can take off those TPS sensors. The same thing happend on my friends honda. We just ground off the rivets and replaced it then just bought some new bolts that fit.

did you guys see the big fatty wing on the back of the saturn that the did was driving? Look at the very bottom picture on that story, there must have been too much downforce for him to operate his vehicle under control..........

I had the exact same problem on my LT1, high idle, couldn't get it to go away. Turns out that I had a massive vacuum leak. I forgot to plug the vacuum port on the throttle body for the fuel canister, it's the port right in the middle on the throttle body on the passenger side.

the offset is 24 mm, no spacer needed on the front, but they rub a little at full lock on the right

Doesn't look like the pics work, here is the link http://www.geocities.com/kinked_chrome/newwheels.html?1059296209214

I just finished up my five lug conversion and 4 wheel disc. I have the typical 4x4 parts in the front and z32 stuff in the rear, rotor and caliper. Y2k style Cobra R's, 17x9. I am running 1.25" spacers in the rear and none in the front. Coil overs on all fours with 8" springs. Please don't ask to see the rear brackets, they are not pretty at this point. Unfortunately the cutting torch does not make pretty cuts. It just consists of a 3/8" steel with holes drilled in it. Anyway enjoy the pics, and there are more to come.

I finished my conversion about two weeks ago and installed new ball joints and poly bushings. Drove her around easy for while, to get comfortable. Took her out tonight and my first hard run was 14.6 @ 101.3 on the G-Tech. The second was 14.2 @ 105.2. Both were horrible launches, one was two way much tire spun, the other it bogged. I'm in Idaho and my elevation is roughly 4300ft. I'm hoping with some more tuning (has an exhaust leak and a few other little things) and better tires I can get mid 13's on the G-tech. Pictures are also coming soon, although it's not exactly much to look at (except the LT1). Does this make me the first high school kid with a hybrid Z?

I understand the fact to use jack stands (always have), but don't understand why I shouldn't use them at all four corners. I had my z on all fours for about a year, had I realized this was a safety hazard I would not have done that.

Yes, it is very possible. That's what I did for mine. Just make sure to wire a neutral safety switch. Then, if you want, just take out both clutch cylinders, lines, and pedal.

Did any of you guys see that Popular Hot Rod issue with the Twin Turbo Vette? It was a C4 with a TT 400ci sbc. It was a serious piece of art, 1300+ HP. The owner said his times were something like mid 11s at 150mph (talk about traction problems , eh?), or somewhere in that ball park. tt350, check out this link as well for 1000hp street car http://www.stevenkamis.com/Cars/MyVette/default1.asp. Nice guy as well, email him about the beef rear end for his twin supercharged big-block. Read through his build up for an idea of the type of money and skill a project like this needs.You could also look into Syclone or typhoon drivetrains, dunno about 1000hp with them, but I do know that those guys are crazy fast. I dibs the first ride if you get this z done

If your using the oem VSS, your pcm should have an output for it. I have an OBDI system on my lt1 setout. It is a dark green with a white tracer on Connector B(either the blue or black one, I can't remember). Although I am using the 4l60e, but I imagine it should be the same. check out http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/4th_gen_tech1.html, I think it might have the info you need.

Well...it may not be the fastest way around the track, but it is certainly a lot of fun to watch

This is some of the craziest drifting and best driving i've seen. Plus the turbos sound cool It's a 22 min video so 56k beware http://203.174.70.181/actvod/yokohama/ad07mobara_b.wmv

I like a place where I have things to look at. Some examples of the fabricators work or products in stock. Not an empty shop with employees saying "we can order it for you", or "we can build it for you". Now I realize keeping lots of products in stock is a lot of overhead, but it's what I like to see. I also like friendly employees who aren't to pushy about selling things and will BS with you for a while. I'm also really impressed with a immaculately clean shop. I believe that in most cases, cleanliness is a reflection of the shops work and that most places underestimate it. A sofa and pool table would be neat as well

Funny reading that while I'm finishing my application and essays for UT at Austin. I think it was just the encouragement that I needed.

I think that the forums are purposely starting flames and using trolls these days to increase advertisement for there sponsors

I have a 260 in need of a new right front fender. I recently picked up a 280z with straight fenders (free) and was curious if they would work on my early 260. If not where is a good place to buy fiberglass fenders?

I don't mean to be nosie or anything, but what is on the tape anyway? Rodding the heck out of mom and dads car? 'Jackass' type film or what?

It fit fairly well into my 260, the only problem that I ran into was not making enought room for the TTC Switch, so i just relocated it.

My LT1 project is complete, except the thing won't start. When i first tried to start it, the thing fired right up and everytime after that. Then I fixed my brakes, built my exhaust system switched from ramhorns to block huggers, installed my O2 sensors, and did some other stuff. Now it won't start at all. It sounds like it wants to, but then gives up. Sometimes it will start but not nearly consistently enough to drive. I had the VATS, Smog, etc, programmed out. I hooked it up to a scan tool and had one error code. ECT sensor sensed low temperature, -40F. Fixed that (metal sleeve pulled out a little bit on the connector to the computer). Still doesn't want to start. I have run out of ideas, and have absolutely no idea what is wrong. I tested for spark and I got spark, I can smell the fuel (I think maybe to much, but I can't adjust it), and i'm getting air; so what gives? Can I trick it into starting? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

ah yes, i remember those days, just a few years ago for me. Don't underestimate mowing lawns. I made some serious money that way. I did it for a real estate agency, taking car of repossessed homes. I made $75 per house per month, just had to mow the lawn times a month and water the lawns. Usually worked out to be $10-15/hour (i did it with my friend, his dad was a real estate agent), but sometimes your limited in the amount of work you can get. Then we would get the clean ups, that were the real money was made. We could charge pretty much whatever we wanted. Typically $200 a job, for a day or two of work. You run into some useful stuff as well. I got a VW bug out of one, if I had known better I would have keeped it and made a sand rail or buggy. My buddy lost interest in the lawns, and wouldn't let my take over (dunno why). Then I worked for Little Caesar's (the beginning of my zcar fund) right around when I was fifteen and started delivering fliers door to door for them. I got that job because I put cars as a hobby on my app. and the manager there actually raced stock cars. That was only min. wage and about 2 hours a day, but better than nothing. When I was old enough I became a crew member and got more hours; and free pizza. Then I moved onto market research, kinda like telemarketing but with survey's instead. Which is what I do now. The place will hire 15 yearolds, not sure about 14, but it's worth a shot for you to look into. Plus my schedule is really flexable with school and changing schedules. Your best bet is to find a local business and just keep bugging them about a job.

yeah, these are a pain. Make you sure you have a big pry bar or cheater, and a couple spare sockets, I broke two craftsmen, then decided to get a snap-on. It's easier if you have a buddy.

I fired mine without the o2 connected, runs way rich and fooled my plugs. not sure if it's o2 connected, but that's the way i have ran it and drove it to the shop(where i did my exhaust). It starts hard, that's when I thought they were fooled, sure enough that was it.

page came up unvailable, unless you were pointing out the lesbian video advertisement

Hey GW, You do have an LT1, but it's out of a full bodied car (probably an impala SS) with a heavy duty cooling package, thus the engine driven fan. I bought the same motor for my conversion. That drivetrain is definately not out of an F-body. They all had Al heads, and never had the bulky baffles. So if you were suppose to get an F-body LT1 i would also have a serious converstation with him/her. Good luck on resolving the situation.