Bates_

Hopefully everything else works like your dash lights, head lights and tail lights, cause that is much more of a pain to fix.

I think I pooped a little bit. This build is scary sick.

Actually the first Gen RX-7 was the SA. It wasn't until the 1981 Generation 1, Series 2 RX-7 that the chassis code got changed to FB. Strange going from SA to FB, a lot of people don't even realize that. But I guess you can say the same for going from S30 to S130 to Z31 lol.

Miles and pics please. While they are sweet cars, they don't always fetch more then 85-86 Z31Ts. They have some nice added touches like the fender flares and the wing, but they still used the T5 transmission which is a weak transmission. It being completely stock is a good selling point in my opinion. I have seen good conditioned AE's sell for as low as 2000$. If it has no rust issues, runs good and has no engine or diff or transmission issues, and the interior is as mint as you say it is, I personally would pay upwards of 4000$ only if you could show receipts for regular maintenance, mainly because a stock AE is rare in itself. If not closer to the low 3000$ range give or take. It's hard to say really without pics or miles.

Slap on a good brand new fuel filter, and then get one of the little clear fuel filters and have them both set up, that way you can actually see what is going through your lines. Best way to determine what if anything is in your tank/lines.

Strange since I know people swap Z31 ECUS (turbo and non-turbo) into Maximas. How about trying a M30 ECU?

Then a 2nd gen, 89-94 GXE and 89-91 SE should work without swapping anything else over.

And you are boosted running 180cc injectors?

Pretty much what everyone else said is spot on. Take your injectors and put them in a container with gas and let them soak for a few days, it will help clean them out.

How big are your injectors?

You should try looking for a JDM Z31 bitching betty. I know they came in the 200ZRs and most of the JDM Z31 models.

I have a running/driving 78 Project with a 10x10 storage locker filled with parts including 2 extra engines and transmissions. Located in north NJ.

I have a 78 280Z, 4-speed manual 2+0, running and driving for sale. Comes with a 10x10 storage locker filled with parts (engines, trannys, body parts, brand new interior and much more). New frame rails and jack plates welded in, solid floor pans and strut towers. Located in 07003, about 90 miles from you. PM me if you are interested.

North NJ guy here. Bloomfield.

Somehow with the bulbs disconnected and even the combo switch disconnected not only does it blow the fuse something starts smoking under the dash. These are separate wires and grounds none of which are under the dash.

The joy of owning an old Z.

I already tried disconnecting the tail lights entirely, and that still blew a fuse but I'll try your idea since I am on a new circuit now.

The car is a 1978 280Z, 2+0 4-Speed Manual. The car has your standard Dash lights/ Tail lights not working. I can deal with the dash lights not working for now until I rewire the entire interior, but I want to drive the car at night so I decided to do something about the tail lights. It blows a fuse every time I try to turn them on. First I tried disconnecting the tail lights and turning on all the lights, and it still blew a fuse. I then tried disconnecting my Combi-Switch thinking that may be the issue, but it still blows a fuse. I took 10 gauge amp wire with a 30A fuse and ran it to a toggle switch, also grounded that switch. I cut each tail light wire (Green with white stripe on this car) and ran them directly to the switch. Turn them on, and the fuse pops. So I decide to run each ground separately to eliminate that potential problem, popped in a new fuse only to blow that one. I am running out of ideas now.

Can you describe the sound? If it sound like it is coming from the wheel, then yes it is most likely your wheel bearing. They make quite a ruckus when they go bad lol.

So what is the most common issue for the tail lights and dash lights not working? Brake lights and reverse lights work though.

Update: Car starts again. Found out that the alternator is not charging the battery, it is getting a draw from somewhere. Is there any common places I should look for the draw, I plan on getting a new alt anyway but just wondering where to look if anyone has any ideas.

Bloomfield.

Anyone want to come and get this thing running again I will pay them. I just spent an easy 3 hours trying to break the bolts to remove the old fuel pump... Couldn't break one of them. Rusted and stripped to hell Ready to set the car on fire. I would just bring it to my mechanic, but it doesn't start, the damn fuel pump just clicks, and angry loud clicks too.. It's mocking me I tell you!

All that stuff is fine. Since you aren't too far from me Jasper, why not come down and give a guy a hand Lol.

Hooray for a new problem!! Went to start her today, battery had water by the positive terminal, sapped her dry. Jumped the car, idle fine, but would choke out upon rev and the tach didn't work. Let her warm up and she was fine. Let her run for a while, began to drop in RPMs, figured it was out of gas (it may will be, don't know honestly the sender is broken). Upon dying, the fuel pump decides it's going to steal all the battery's juice and continue to run or try to run after the car died. It was on a clicking frenzy. Hopefully my brand new 76 Fuel pump will fix that problem but I thought I would share. Oh, also, after the car is off, a very slow slight tapping noise can be heard from inside the valve cover. Any ideas?