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duragg

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Everything posted by duragg

  1. I've been chatting with Tyler offline about these brakes for my racecar. I have 2 sets of 15x10 and he said figment should be no problem. Said even a few 14s were fine. Worst case I bet just a slight bit of relief with. grinder will solve any issue. I have to shave my s12w down just a bit also.
  2. Well, this is a 71b? Dog ring is different. (And would change my classing!) Just a simple synchro hybrid Unless you know more that you want to share?
  3. and done! A 19/31 overdrive for .78 in a 1983 FS5w71b with brass Warner synchro Like to think that this isn't too common, maybe I'm the first?
  4. Back into my tranny for a few items: 2nd still grindeded a little Reverse got mangled in the heat of battle. Want a shorter 5th. On inspection also found the 4th gear brass ring cracked yet it shifted perfectly. No about that 5th... By installing the earlier tranny I can get a .78 OD instead of .745 which will help. But.... The earlier trannies use older style syncros. I found that I could press off the gear and I think I can adapt the Warner syncro to the older gears. So.. Wish me luck!
  5. Mine stopped going into Reverse too, but I injured it accidentally by trying to shift into reverse multiple times during a bumpy race at 100 mph or so. Wasn't my best day... I took tranny apart this weekend and the reverse idler is all chewed up. Will replace with some spare gears. If you are holding the clutch in, select 2nd, then reverse and you still get a grind with car sitting still = your clutch is dragging and injuring your other syncros. Must bleed clutch after every time you remove the slave.
  6. It's helpful to add the remaining context to statements like this. For instance: ... because they found the steering to be crisper. ... because they found the chassis to be stiffer. ... because they lost the bolts one Sat afternoon.
  7. I tried to make the Taurus "wind machine" fit. That thing is a beast... but no fits. Tried the dual fans from MSA. No bueno. Finally bought a rather cheap 16" fan (Maybe Derale?) and it is super. Takes about all the room from top of radiator to the nipple of the water pump at the motor core and clears just fine. 3L motor in race only applications. I don't need it for qualifying or practice but in races with traffic impeding airflow its a must have. No idea the CFM. Probably pulls about 30amps or so. Maybe a bit less. It was melting 30a fuses until I installed a good aircraft 50A breaker. Mine is on a simple ON/OFF switch under the hood which forces us all to put eyes on the mill before / after races. Rambling, sorry... drinkin...
  8. Question: can you remove the pads without disturbing the caliper? Answer: The Quick-Clips also accommodate easy pad access without caliper removal. Brake pad compounds are available for the full range of sport and competition applications.
  9. Winter overhaul. Diff reshim and inspection done. Tranny next.
  10. An .864 5th would be killer on the later "Close ratio" trans, but because the counter gears are different you only end up with the .77 OD (aka 1980 box). A 4.11 would be great for you and you might be happy with it. If you are running a 3.54 or something now it will be like night and day. Or at least it was for me. Spending real money on a 71b just seems crazy to me. With my 4.375 I am almost never in 2nd gear, usually 3,4 & 5 so I may go back and try an early configuration in which 3,4 5 are tight. Here is some 2, 3, 4 & 5th gear action from NASA Nationals at Sonoma a few weeks ago. I had already won my region and was just trying to stay out of trouble at this event, so no heroics. http://youtu.be/fWbLrWAI4j0
  11. Early Z 71b 5 speeds actually had good close ratios for 3, 4 and 5. But a big gap for 2-3. 81-83 "close ratio" 71b had close 1, 2, 3 and 4 but a but gap to the .745 OD. They have some other nice improvements too like the reverse lockout. In 1980 a few "close ratio" boxes were made with. .77 OD instead of the .745. Every little bit helps.
  12. What size R6? New ones or old? TT or wheel-wheel race? You have aero? Post a pic of car? (Helps with overall picture) #1 you need to figure out your exact ratio by examining your ring gear ideally. Or if unwilling to do that take your exact rear tire size and RPM in 4th gear at a few different speeds and do the math. You probably make about 275whp like mine and a rear ratio of 4:11 might really wake things up.
  13. How much you raced this car yet? Road racing? Which tires? My 3L Rebello has a 4.38 rear drive The 71b tranny is light. Weight is the enemy. Sometimes the 5th is an issue so I am building a "1980" 71b. I have a whole wall of $50 71b trannys for backups which leaves me a lot more money for tires...
  14. Racing my 73 s30 at Sonoma this weekend. BZ3015 in sectioned rear on left is toast. Anybody nearby with one (or two) sitting around?? Tom 602-628-2701
  15. Wing and cool shirt going in before Nationals. http://nasachampionships.com/west-event/
  16. I'm on my second set of Hawk DTC60 Front (S12W) and DTC70 Rear (early 280ZX). I suppose the very first pedal application isn't as bitey as when warm, but running 275/35-15 R6 tires everything needs a quick warm-up, but not much. I cannot hear any noise from them ever. I had to have Porterfield cut the rear pads to my size from a larger donor pad ($50 service). Dust? meh.. everything is a mess after a race so not something I track. I've had them hot... On a short track them MoFos got hot enough to boil Wilwood 600 fluid and char bearing grease even with a 3" duct. But they came back after chilling out a few laps. Revising ducting again.
  17. I have 2 running motors now. The original green motor that I built myself is for backup use. Its dynod low at 170whp and high at about 193 if I recall. 2 separate dynos a few years apart. The race motor is a Rebello 3.0L that made around 250 wheels on the dyno our classing rules require. Dynojet maybe? This motor threw a rod in January, was rebuilt and seems happy now. I really cant have any more HP for classing reasons just about tapped out a 9:1 lbs / hp
  18. Not bad for a little green POS that caught on fire 5 times, blew 2 engines and had me working on it...
  19. My stupid Arizona Zcar pan hangs below the cross member. Dangerously close to the track in my opinion. Meh... Its taken a few hits already. Lowering also moves weight around, no? I vote for slam. Count your rotations and you can go right back to where you were.
  20. I never did. And the Manufacturer even replaced them and sent heavier springs, but still there were popping open. Granted they were popping under race conditions +100mph, but still it wasn't working for me. Subsequently put large vents in the hood and restricted inlet air and they don't pop anymore.
  21. My 3L uses an offset ground L28 crank The Accusump I have has a 2 qt capacity. You set oil level in the engine with the Accusump fully charged (full of oil). If it gets triggered it dumps another 2 qts in the engine resulting in pretty high oil level. It exists primarily to augment oil if during accelerations the sump pickup goes momentarily dry which my oil pressure light to me happened with a stock pan. With the AzZcar pan I dont *think* it runs dry and so the Accusump is just a bunch of weight. I weigh 2440 lbs with me in the car and zero fuel but my classing rules say I can be 2400 so it might be on the chopping block.
  22. I've run a Rebello 3.0L the last year. The first motor failed after about 7 hours use (threw a rod). Cause determined to be... not worth fighting about. Rebello helped resolve the motor in a reasonable fashion. Arizona Zcar pan with a 2qt Accusump. I am rigging a light so I can watch when (if?) the Accusump ever even contributes during a race. 275/35-15 R6 Hoosiers. If the Accusump never fires I will remove it next year. Ran the Arizona Zcar "race" clutch and it failed after about 15 hours racing. One of the locating springs for the pressure plate snapped. Dave at Arizona Zcar did nothing to remedy the situation. Bought a Heavy Duty ACT clutch and immediately noticed the pressure plate springs were WAY beefier that the Arizona Zcar "race" clutch. I avoided a super-light clutch since I need brute reliability more than the last bit of performance. On my Rebello motor I found it was critical to set the timing on a dyno as when we used too much advance there was a distinct drop in power. For very high revs you need a good amount of initial advance and less at the top which can only be maximized with a fancy RMP dependent system. The motor is a blast. Tj
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