Danno74Z

SunnyZ Wow that is something else - Congratulations! Danno74Z

I don't know if this will help but here is one way to go on the Illuminas: http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3016-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE6J6 http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3015-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE5NI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1 Boy I haven't dug those numbers up in years Danno74Z

While you are getting the gears installed you should also make sure the bearings are in good shape. I had a pro shop set-up my differential and the shop told me that one of the pinion bearings was bad. All above board. More work and more cost but 100% in good shape now as the shop replaced all the bearings. The gear set was in great shape. Danno74Z

Here are a couple more pictures of the LSD Carrier and the bushings - 12mm to 10mm. I had to shave 1.5MM from the 10 bushings so as not to interfere with the ring gear sitting flush.

I accidentally deleted the above picture. Here it is again.

Back on the car after a layoff and working on the R200 Differential to Drive Shaft Connection. This topic has been discussed over the years but I figure a current review couldn't hurt. There are many ways to do this but this is the route I chose. I have a R200 from a 1989ZX with 3.54 gears with an open carrier. A few years back I went in on the group purchase and got the revised clutch carrier to make it a LSD. I also have a 1999 drive shaft from a Camaro that I will be shortening to fit the Z with the LS1/T56 combo. I will be using both yokes from that drive shaft. (One can buy the flange from JTR for $65 but I found a cheaper source, see below.) I removed the 280ZX differential flange and installed the 300ZX differential flange that I got from a wrecking yard. I had to hunt for the flange and many did not want to remove it as they wanted me to buy the entire unit. I also wanted the beefier 300ZX flange w/10mm holes and I could not find the correct 280ZX Spicer U-Joint flange to make the conversion. I had spent enough time on this and had to move-on. JTR has the flange but being a cheap SOB I went a different route. The key for me was to find the correct Spicer U-joint conversion flange and I found it at Northern Drivetrain. In the past some have used the 1819 flange but that part is now obsolete. I took a chance on the 1309 flange and it fits PERFECT to the 300ZX differential flange. Below is a picture of the assembly and a summary of the parts used. The bolts are just temporary as I will have to use 10mm socket head bolts for the final assembly. The U-joint is a conversion joint that allows one to go from Chevy to Ford components. The Chevy is a S44 U-joint and the Ford is a 1310. This stuff has been used for decades and like I said there are numerous combinations to make this connection work. I wanted to make use of the parts I already have for this build. Parts used to make the conversion: #1 38210-Y0800-300ZX Flange (Nissan) Nissan Parts Zone ($53.95) I got one from a wrecking yard #2 SPI-2-1309 Flange Yoke (Northern Drivetrain) ($34.24) #3 910-48317 U-Joint Chevy to Ford (Speedway Motors) S44/1301 conversion ($19.99) #4 1999 Chevy Drive Shaft U-joint yoke. Standard S44 joint. (Removed from drive shaft)

Thank You all for helping me out on this. Danno74Z

Email Sent.

Litman, You did exactly what I'm doing - Awesome! Yes I have those rubber mounts purchased from GM. I will PM you tonight. Danno74Z

After a little research from the original JTR book both the Datsun engine and the new Chevy350 engine are offset to the passenger side by 3/4". The spacers that JTR sells and has diagrams for calls for 2.5" and 1.5" spacers. I guess to make it easy he added the 1/4" to the driver's side. I will use 3/4" as a starting point. Danno74Z

I thought if you center the engine between the rails you have no room for the exhaust header on the driver's side as it hits the steering shaft? That is the reason the engine is shifted slightly to the passenger side using John's mounts? I'm thinking about 1.5" but want to be sure. Danno74Z

v8dats, Help me out here. Where is your post about wanting pictures of my mounts? I went to your most recent posts and I don't see your request. Never mind, I dug a little deeper and I found your post. I don't have the mount system totally designed just yet but it will be very similar to my test engine stand mounting system. The system uses biscuit mounts that are found on the 2005 GTO and probably the vet. It has two vertical "towers" which are bolted to a horizontal crossmember. That crossmember is then bolted to the Datsun framerails that I have reinforced with 1/8" flat steel. My existing framerails in the engine compartment were in fine shape - no rust but I'm in the process of building my framerails that follow the floor pans. Those were totally shot and bent. As soon as I finish those on to the engine installation. But I need some help from members to my original request for engine placement. Danno74Z

Hi All, I need some help. Can a few members with LSx blocks take a couple of measurements for me? I'm in the process of locating my LS1 engine in the DatsunZ bay and I know the engine is offset to the passenger side by some amount. I'm doing my own mounts and this information would be a huge help. Can you measure from the frame rails both left(driver) and right(passenger) straight over to the engine block. Most folks use John's mounts and that is fine. To the 1/8" is fine. THANKS!!!!! Danno74z

This is a suggestion. Why not take the mustache bar to a metallurgist in your town and find out what grade steel it's made of and the hardness. They can recommend if welding will hurt it or not and perhaps it can be reheated (specific temperature) after your welding to re-leave any stresses. From reading other comments about drilling into the bar it is quite hard and is a SOB to get through it. One thing is certain, as soon as heat goes into the areas of your weld you loose the spring properties in those areas and may be prone to cracking and failure. However as I mentioned, you may be able to retemper the bar once your done welding to get it back some of the spring properties. Only someone such as a metallurgist can give you a straight and accurate answer. Danno74Z

Sorry to hear about the axles not holding up. Saw this... http://www.bossfrog.biz/Miata_V8_Swap.html These are images of the Ford 8.8 in a Miata. Just some ideas for you. Danno74Z

1/8-MILE TO 1/4-MILE CONVERSION TABLE 1/8-mile ET 1/4-mile ET 7.1 11.08 7.15 11.15

Wow that is fantastic! Good for you. If you break those you might consider a Ford 9" or a Dana truck rear end So both axles turned out to be 15" and you don't have any binding on the drivers side? I thought the axles had to be 14 3/16" for the driver side and 14 13/16 for the passenger side? Danno74Z

Sunny Z Do you have an update on your new axles from the Driveshaft Shop? Can you share some facts and specs on them? Thanks, Dan

Yep your right. Still must have made quite a bang when it let loose. Danno74Z

Hi Sunny Z Thanks for the information and the update on the axles. WOW that is something else. I'm glad you did not get injured or the car. I have never snapped an axle but on the Z I guess the wheel can come off the car depending on where the break is. Is that correct? It is amazing how the splines just twisted like soft taffy but did not break. Danno74Z

Sunny Z Hello, About a month ago you mentioned you went to the Driveshaft Shop for a bullet proof rear end setup. Whatever happened to that project? Also, the axles you just broke/bent are these the beefier axles sold here on HybridZ? I thought those were bigger, stronger and made of hardened chrome moly. Danno74Z

Here is another LSD on Ebay. Seems everybody knows how valuable these units are so finding one on Ebay for less then $600 will take forever. But good luck! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-300zx-Z31-R200-clutch-type-limited-slip-differential-/320946127566?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab9e142ce&vxp=mtr Danno74Z

I did some research and between 1984 and 1987 a total of 46,895 300Z turbo models were made - THAT IS IT! After almost 30 years probably and this is a total SWAG 50% have been crushed or totally destroyed. Now we have about 23,000 left in the world some still running some in wrecking yards. Good luck finding one less expensive. I'm not saying you won't find one less expensive but don't hold your breath. My recommendation is to take a working R200 and convert it over to a LSD. Danno74Z

I saw this on Ebay and did not know if you ever got your LSD: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150858794450&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123 Danno74Z

Sunny Z The LS1 looks great in there! I guess I'm a little confused...what happened to the 5.3 and why did you go to the 5.7 LS1? Did you find a CLSD yet? Happy 4th Danno74Z The big forest fire just north of where I live is contained. Man is it dry and hot out here in CO this summer. As I write this it is 98 and about 5% humidity. One blows hot air in the hills and a fire starts.