Danno74Z

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/561598-here-ls1-retrofit-schematic.html Thread #17 - Has a pdf file that I copied and enlarged to 18x24 at a print shop.

The DLC is a connector that you probably did not get with your engine. Looking at the connector (D shaped) pin 1 is in the top left and pin 16 is at the lower right. Here is what you do: Pin 2 of the DLC goes to Pin K (DK Green) on C230 (serial data blu- pin 58 on the computer) Pin 4&5 of the DLC are shunted and grounded pin 16 of the DLC goes to a 20 amp acc fuse and is hot (batt +) all the time. That is it - simple. Danno74Z

Yes to the connectors BUT if you have to go through emissions you will need all that equipment that came with the engine OR the car. You have to know your emission laws. Also you will have to delete or keep the emissions code in the computer. If you delete the emission equipment from the engine you have to delete it from the computer or should. You can probably delete it from the computer and leave the stuff on the engine but why? The front O2 sensors you should keep for the engine to run correctly. If you switch over to a carb (some people do) you can dump everything but that is another subject. PLEASE go through the search engine here and on http://www.LS1tech.com and 99% of all your questions will be answered on this subject. On LS1tech go to the hybrid forum and do a search and study the stickys links. Every conceivable question and answer on swapping an LS1 is there. Danno74Z

ragefear, Well yes and no on that statement. You can send your existing engine harness in to a company/service to rework your OEM harness that deletes all unnecessary wires and ADDS fuses and relays for the FI components. If you do a search on "wire harness" you will see what I mean. Harnesses range from about $300 for a reworked unit to $600-700 for a custom unit per your instructions such as length of wire to locate the computer and the fuses and relays you specifically want. Big bucks no matter how you slice it! I bought an EBAY harness for $35 and did my own harness to tie the engine harness to it. In actuality you can leave all the existing wires alone in the "engine harness" and only use what you need through the use of connectors C100, C101, C105, C220 and C230. Those connectors are down in picture 5. Could I go through the engine harness and eliminate those wires that I don't need - absolutely. I probably won't as that is a lot of extra work and who really cares about a few extra wires. I believe someone figured out that 10-15 wires are removed from the engine harness - don't need in a Z conversion. Once I put new fresh (tubing) wrap on the harness it will look brand new. (All those remaining wires are very small gauge that pin to the computer). Now if you send your harness out to be reworked or purchase a new one all extra wires will be removed from the harness and it will be a custom piece. I just added this. I'm thinking about building an engine test stand (nothing fancy) and firing this engine up. All I have to do is run a FI pump to the engine, battery, ignition switch and fire her up - that would be a hoot! I could temporarily mount some gauges (oil, temp, tach) and even hook up my JTR radiator to keep the engine cool for a bit - hell I could even mount the fans and test everything out. Danno74Z

Hi Vin, Good to hear from you! My Z is a 74 vintage and basically has no relays for the LS1 engine. You are correct, I probably could get away with one box but I'm leaning towards safety. One fuse box has the 3 relays for the cooling fans and just a couple fuses. I probably could move the fuses to the other box and just get some fuse holders for the 3 fan relays and piggy back them to the other fuse box. This would be very doable now that I really understand the workings of the wiring. If space becomes a issue which it always seems to I might do this. The other fuse box has 90% of the wiring, relays and fuses and going to one box would simplify things. I'm going with AC so I need a relay and fuse for this system too. Thanks for the advice! Danno74z

Hi All, It has been a long time but I'm back working on my Z. This project took a turn and I'm now installing (soon) a 2002 LS1 engine and T56. I decided to build my own electric harness for the engine. The engine came with an OEM unit but not the harness to tie the chassis too. I bought a harness on Ebay and did the modifications myself. Here are some pictures. original harness Modified harness Modified harness Modified harness C100, C101, C105, Starter Connectors Wire tubing Extra wiring from harness Left over fuses and relays All I have to do is plug-in the engine harness connectors to my modified harness and then hook-up the ignition switch and battery. In between the two fuse boxes is a big stud for the Battery +. In one of the pictures is the fan harness for the original dual fan unit. I will probably tie both fuse boxes together and mount it close to where it probably went in the Camaro (front drivers side). Danno74Z

I built this awhile back for my fuel system: Have ordered all parts for the LS1 filter/regulator. I figure this is about half the price of a complete unit from S&P. RockAuto ACDelco, GF822 $43.89 Midway Auto, Dorman Fuel Lines 12"x3/8" DOR-800-155 $12.99 Denver Pipe & Fitting (Swagelok Distributor) (most large city's) SS-600-6-6AN (3/8" to AN, compression fitting) $12.60 x 2 SS-500-6-5AN (5/16" to AN, compression fitting) $10.00 x1 (This fitting will take a little time to get since it comes from Ohio.) Total = $92.08 Others who are staying with the one feed supply line to the LS1 engine can use this information to build their own fuel regulator assembly unit on the cheap - why not. Danno74Z

Hi Guys, I have a quick question (Been around long enough - I did a search) on the LS1/T56 Tilton clutch master cylinder to use? Some use the 7/8" bore and others use the 15/16". With limited room of about 4.5" (original Datsun ms) I will use the TIL-75 model which is a compact unit and keep the washer bottle. This model has numerous bore sizes with a stroke of 1.1". Does anybody know what the GM OEM clutch master size is bore and stroke? Thanks, Danno74Z

Tony D, In the grand scheme of things paying a little more for a quality part is worth it to me. I looked at some other brands of compression fittings and just did not like them. So I'm with you 100% sweetride2go You mentioned that they were very expensive - yes and no. If you do put them in the wrong spot they can be undone and with a new ferrule you are good to go. Measure twice, tighten once Nice new lines by the way. What material are you using? Danno74Z

Hi Tony D, Wow thanks for the detailed write-up on the fittings. It looks like we replied at the same time - give or take. As I noted, I found all the Swagelok fittings. From what the Denver sales rep told me the 5/16" fitting is a a 2 week special order item right from Swagelok in Ohio. I did not ask him why but I did try two other suppliers and they did not carry them either - odd? Anyway my filter/reg. arrived today and the 12" dorman fuel line is in route. I think NAPA might even carry it) I'm not is a big hurry as I have a lot of other things to work on. I am removing both fuel lines from the car and making my own. What the hell just about everything else is new!! These compression fittings are going on the filter/regulator (the inlets and outlets) and the AN end will attach to the lines I make in the future. I'm sure you've seen this before: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PRODUCTS/lssinglefuelkit.html This part is now up around $170 from them. Other people that have done the LS1/LS2 conversion (other Forums) don't like the Russell adapters so I decided to go this route. Danno74Z

Have ordered all parts for the LS1 filter/regulator. I figure this is about half the price of a complete unit from S&P. RockAuto ACDelco, GF822 $43.89 Midway Auto, Dorman Fuel Lines 12"x3/8" DOR-800-155 $12.99 Denver Pipe & Fitting (Swagelok Distributor) (most large city's) SS-600-6-6AN (3/8" to AN, compression fitting) $12.60 x 2 SS-500-6-5AN (5/16" to AN, compression fitting) $10.00 x1 (This fitting will take a little time to get since it comes from Ohio.) Total = $92.08 Others who are staying with the one feed supply line to the LS1 engine can use this information to build their own fuel regulator assembly unit on the cheap - why not. Danno74Z

Grainger does not carry Swagelok and I went on Ebay and one can't really tell what people are selling. Usually somebody is cleaning out a warehouse of stuff. Thanks waddiejohn on your suggestion. I'm sure there is a distributor in the Denver area like in AZ but one usually gets bent over the table on price for just a few fittings. I will continue to look and if I come up with something I will post it. Danno74Z I found a Swagelok supplier in Golden. They seem to carry the SS-600-6-6AN but not the 5/16" in the AN end! What is up with that.

Hello, It has been sometime since I asked a question! Does anybody know where I can purchase Swagelok SS compression fittings online? I need several for my LS1 fuel line. THANKS Danno74Z LS1 Conversion Project

Hi Bart, Glad to help a little. I think this will also help: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=962124&highlight=ac+request Go down to the 6th reply and this fellow has a Vintage Air System and if you email him he may be able to tell you exactly what to do! Those guys on LS1Tech are very knowledgeable too. Danno74Z

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=938768&highlight=ac+request Bart, Go to this link above and I believe you question will be answered. If I under stand the logic your ECM needs to know when to bump the idle and this is done through 3 lines on the LS1 ECM. RED 14 Pressure Sensor, 17 AC request, 18 AC clutch voltage. I believe all three have to be used to get the PCM to bump the idle. From that thread above the pressure sensor is a key component to getting the ECU to increase RPM. Danno74Z

VinhZXT, Yes, those are them - THANK YOU! If you could send me at least 3 I would really appreciate it. I know beggars can't be too picky but could you send some different colors if you have them- less confusion. Thank You, Dan

SSflyer, Thanks for the tip on getting the pin loose from the connector. My problem is that my harness does not have any extra wires/conductors as this is an after market unit vs. a stock setup. If I had a stock harness I would probably have 20-30 spare wires to choose from. VinhZXT said he had some spare wires with pins but he is a busy fellow. If anybody has 3 spare wires with the pins still attached laying around and you want to get rid of them please EM me I will reimburse all postage.. Danno74Z

VinhZXT, Thanks!! I just PM you.

I know most people will convert over to R34 refrigerant for their AC systems but if you need R12 for a system you can purchase it on EBAY. For about $30 a can (1lb) which is not cheap but if you need it….. The one caveat is you must tell the Ebay seller that you are purchasing the refrigerant to re-sell to a qualified licensed installer of the gas. My 18 year old Honda Civic was down 2 cans (Most R12 have a sight glass while R34 systems don’t). I could tell with all the bubbles that I needed refrigerant. So I ordered 2 cans with a recharge hose and under the supervision of a licensed professional (wink wink) put the two can into the system and now I can hang beef in there it is so cold! I swear R12 is a better refrigerant then R34. Danno74Z

Ragefear I need to add one connector (2wires) and one output to the ECU. My harness that I purchased does not have the VSS circuit/connector. RED Connector - pin 20 VSS ref low and pin 21 VSS which go to the VSS sensor on the T56 which I do have. I also need pin 50 Vehicle Speed Output from the ECU for the speedo which is a single wire output. Should be easy to fix/add to the harness. I should be able to do this myself with a little help. Danno74Z

I need to add a few wires to my LS1 computer (the red connector) and I don’t know how to do that. I definitely don’t want to break or damage the connector. I can see how I believe it separates from the metal case. Looks like you push down on four white tabs and it “should†pop out. Does anybody know a good source for the female pins and tools to properly crimp the pins? Thanks! Danno74Z

Hi Bart, Like you mentioned you have been trying to figure this problem out for some time. Before you installed the upgrade wiring did you take a reading of the fuel pressure? How low was it? What is next on the to do list? Danno74Z

Mark, I want to be clear on this issue. The MS FI SYSTEM is just that not just a pseudo Opti replacement like Delteq. If I'm not mistaken you can run a lawnmower engine with MS. This is like starting with a blank sheet of paper. Mark, The MS system is not for you. With the MS FI you will be doing "I don't want to modify, hammer, cut, beat, reduce, enlarge, streach, shrink, paint, epoxy" forever - maybe not the last 5 or 6 and I can tell you if you beat it you go to FI jail. Danno74Z

Mark, That is too bad your car ran worse after the delteq install - I was looking at that system. What a lot of people don't understand is if you have a marginal OPTI going on the Delteq MAY improve the Opti system. Yes you get rid of the high voltage but you still have a rotor and cap which is still prone to breakage and a opti wheel. Yes you totally build your MS system! Here is just one link (there are thousands). http://www.teglerizer.com/fi/megasquirt/index.html Danno74z

Bart, The Megasquirt DIY FI system totally removes the OEM FI system except for the sensors on the motor. The MS can use these so it saves a lot of money and if you are adventuresome you can even build the MS box - like an old Heath Kit (I'm dating myself). The OEM system can't monitor boost very well (I'm out of my league) so you have to use an aftermarket system. I'm not sure but most turbo's run 15-20 psi boost. I don't see how an LT1 can handle that pressure without pulling the guts and lowering the CR to 8-1. At the normal 10.5-1 the engine will just explode. Danno74z