Danno74Z

Hi Old Man, From one old man to another I hate do overs too. I have found over the years HybridZ to be invaluable for that reason. Unfortunately HybridZ can't prevent the "While I'm at it disease". Danno74Z

I just got the MSD wires that you can bend a little to accommodate tight header issues and as added protection I added 1200 degree wire socks. This probably is over kill but I will never have issues with melted spark plug wires.

OK - Sounds good to me. Thanks I just have to find a way to plug up the intake behind the throttle body after I remove the hose. It has that white clip.

Here is a shot of my engine view from the top. I have a general idea that these items are emissions related as one is the purge valve but what are the other parts? Some hoses were disconnected when I got the engine and I can't read the part numbers on some items to look up. One hose routes to the front just behind the throttle body and connects to that purge valve. That hose must be plugged if removed. What common method is used? Note: I did have all emissions related items removed from the computer.....O2 sensors were kept. Thanks Danno74Z

Here is a shot of the interference I have with #5 cylinder. Is this pretty much standard?

Thank you for that information. I wasn't sure about the MSD wires being able to bend or not. The Magnacor wires would be nice but they due $$$$. Danno74Z

Savage42 Boy that is a great question! I called Sanderson about these headers and I have to tell you it was like I was talking to Headman or Hooker! We know nothing about them. When I asked it I could get a "new" driver's side header they said I would have to go through JTR. Well, I bought these headers over 6 months ago and I'm sure they won't take them back now. I believe with a little more time routing the tubes these would have been fine. Sanderson said their standard size LS1 header primary tube is 1.5" not 1.75" so with the tubes being a larger diameter in the same jig you get interference. What is really weird is if you email Sanderson your responses come from a guy on the east coast but if you call Sanderson you talk to Donna in CA - go figure. When I asked about the header I was told "we don't make 1.75" primary tube LS1 headers as standard only 1.5" but the web site said talk to Jay for other sizes. It was like I was in the Twilight Zone. Danno74Z

Gary, I checked my clearances and #3 has moderate interference and #5 is the worst on the driver's side. On the passenger side #6 could be also have moderate interference. All I know is when I take the OEM metal sleeves off the wires and try to put the the wire on the plugs the silicone/rubber boot makes contact with the header. These are straight OEM boots. I think with 45 degree boots #3 and #6 will clear (not by much) #5 will touch no matter what. Perhaps I got a sh** driver's side header from the get go even worse then most. All I know is when I look straight down the #5 spark plug hole the edge of the primary tube just crosses the edge of the spark plug porcelain. There is no way yo fit a straight boot on that puppy. Danno74Z

Hi Gary, Hey thanks for writing back. You know with all the people buy these headers from JTR/sanderson you would of thought they could have modified the jig that they build the headers on. I am sure you and I aren't the only ones having this issue. What really chaps my butt is the headers cost $495 and one can't use a spark plug socket on 2 cylinders. If you try you will either crack the spark plug or scrape up the header. I had to make a custom tool for this! (By the way I can let you know how to do this if you want) Also on the drivers side you have to cut off a chunk of the engine block boss to make the header fit. Again, after about 25-50 sets JTR or Sanderson could tweak the headers for future people buying them - SORRY FOR THE RANT Gary - when you say the LS2 wires do you mean to get the ones for the later GTO's? Thanks, Danno74Z

I haven't had much luck with the search on spark plug wires to use with the JTR Sanderson's on the LS1 engine. As noted on some older links a few spark plug holes are very tight. I tried to use the existing OEM wires with the heat shields and forget it. Has anybody used the MSD Ignition wires 32819's? One is suppose to be able to bend the spark plug boot to keep it away from touching headers but you know how that goes! Sounds too good and we all know the old saying. Any input would be great. Thanks, Danno74Z

ZGeezer, A while back I saw this bracket and did not want take the chance of it not working in the Z's tight engine compartment. Also I doubt they would take it back after one installed it and also spending $167 + shipping and a 6 rib belt = $200 or more. The alternative method that Mark showed costs about $40 at the most - New belt and a 6 rib tensioner pulley. I already picked up the belt from NAPA and it fit perfectly. For the moment I have the smooth pulley up on the tensioner and made the pulley swap as a trial fit. The belt tension is right in the middle of the tensioner range like the original belt and good pulley contact with the water pump. Danno74Z

Thanks for all the input. I just ordered a LS1 LS2 LS6 LS7 Tensioner Pulley and I'm going to get the NAPA 551/4" recommended belt. To make it work in my case I had to remove a little aluminum from the alt. bracket and put a small shim (.5mm thick) behind the pulley. All seem fine clearance wise on all the alt. bolts too once I stretched the old belt as a trial fit.

Mark, I have seen this link before - Thanks. I looked at the pop n wood setup (Dale's original) and I get interference behind the idler pulley rubbing the bracket and the belt touching the lower alt bolt. In the picture you can see he had to do some grinding. I'm looking for some other setups if they exist. What did you do? Dan

Hey guys can you help me on how you deleted the power steering pump on your LS1's. I can't seem to find a good link here or anywhere else on how to do it. I know some have gutted the pump but there has to be a alternative to that. I saw Dale's method up here but I tried that method but got interference issues with the pulleys and bolt heads. With all the LS1 swaps can someone help me out on this issue. THANKS.................. Please some pictures or links to them. Danno74Z

Hi Mark, That is a great link - THANKS.... One last question on bolt torque. What is the torque on the oil bypass fitting that is mounted above the oil filter. I took it off to make the mod to it and put it back using a light torque as the bolts are small. I know I did not over torque them (used 100lb.in.) but it would be nice to get it right. Danno74Z

Thank you for that spec. Danno74Z

What are the bolt torque settings of the transmission (T56) to the LS1 engine block? I found the BTS of the clutch housing to transmission to be 26lb.ft. but not transmission to engine. Are they the same torque? Thanks, Dan

Are you trying to find an engine harness or an engine bay harness like I converted? PM me Danno74Z

Here is what I got. I put in - LS1 harness http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p0.m38.l1313&_nkw=Ls1+harness&_sacat=See-All-Categories

No problem at all. I wrote to the guy who did the drawing and suggested he fix connector C220 layout. Pin E needs to be grounded and he left out pin G for the reverse lights. These wires appear in other documentation for the LS1 swap. Danno74Z